geraaoraemasorc^Qraa^g gas 



I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

I" ~ ~ Chap. JLKXSX ' 
She/f^K-Z-M-h 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. $ 



CARLSBAD 

AND ITS ENVIRONS 



JOHN MERRYLEES 

AUTHOR OF 

THE ENGLISHMAN'S GUIDE TO THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA, 

"PATERSON'S UNITED KINGDOM," " SWITZERLAND," ETC, 



WITH 

B /IRe&ical areatiee on tbe Wee of tbe TOaters 
B. LONDON, M. D. 



II v 



RESIDENT PHYSICIAN AT CARLSBAD 



USLitl) JFourtem Illustrations, anil Pan of <£arlsto anU ffinbtrons 



NEW YORK 
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 



1886 






<^ 






0*.> 



PREFACE. 



=wJN the preparation of this handbook it has been 
yfpl^y the aim of the Author to supply English- 
speaking visitors to Carlsbad with such prac- 
tical information as may contribute to the comfort and 
enjoyment of their sojourn at this beautiful watering- 
place. Although exhaustive treatises, principally medi- 
cal, have been written on Carlsbad in other languages, 
the English contributions to its literature have so far 
been exceedingly meagre, and have only been obtainable 
in Carlsbad itself. The present work, therefore, has 
been undertaken in response to the frequently ex- 
pressed need of a handbook which intending English 
and American visitors can consult prior to undertaking 
the journey, and which it is hoped will prove of prac- 
tical use during the period of their stay. 

We have pleasure in taking this opportunity to 
tender our grateful acknowledgments to the Burgo- 
meister of Carlsbad, and his courteous secretary, for 



IV PREFACE. 

valuable information received from tliem during the 
Author's visit to Carlsbad. We have also to acknow- 
ledge our indebtedness to the comprehensive German 
works on Carlsbad by Dr. Hlawacek, Dr. Rudolf Mannl, 
Herr Vincenz Prokl, and an excellent brochure in 
French by Dr. W. Pichler, as well as to the admirable 
articles on Carlsbad, written to the Times by its well- 
known correspondent, Fraser Eae, Esq. 

Annexed to the descriptive portion of the work is a 
medical treatise by Dr. London, resident physician at 
Carlsbad, which embraces the nature and rules of the 
treatment, and a synopsis of the various diseases which 
can be relieved or cured by the use of the Carlsbad 
waters. Coming from so well-known an authority, 
this treatise will doubtless be of interest, not only to 
patients, but also to the medical profession. 



CONTENTS. 



CARLSBAD AND ITS ENVIRONS. 

NO. PAGE 

I. Introduction . n 

Routes to Carlsbad . . . . . . .19 

II. Situation and Climate 25 

III. History and Reminiscences of Carlsbad ... 28 

IV. Life at Carlsbad 48 

V. Arrival, Hotels, Lodgings, Cafes, and Best Shops 53 

VI. Concerts, Theatres, and Amusements . . -59 

VII. Town Regulations 62 

Cure and Music Tax . . . . . .62 

Regulations Respecting Lodgings .... 64 

Bath Regulations ....... 68 

Public Carriages ....... 72 

Donkeys and Donkey Carriages .... 76 

Omnibuses ........ 78 

Post and Telegraph Regulations . . . .80 

Dienstmann-Institute . . . . . .81 

VIII. Description of the Town and Principal Buildings . 83 

IX. The Springs of Carlsbad 93 

Sprudel . . . . . . . . .97 

Hygiensquelle ........ 99 

Marktbrunn ........ 99 

Kaiser Karlsquelle . . . . . . .100 



VI CONTENTS. 

NO. PAGE 

Schlossbrunn . . . . . . ioo 

Russische Kronequelle . . . . . 101 

Muhlbrunn ioi 

Neubrunn ......... ioi 

Bemhardsbrunnen . . . . . . .102 

Elisabethquelle . . . . . . . .103 

Felsenquelle . . . . . . . .104 

Curhausquelle . . . . . . . .105 

Kaiserbrunnen . . . . . . . .106 

Eisenquelle . . . . . . . . 107 

Sauerbrunn . . . . . . . .108 

X. Walks to the 

Alte Wiese, Kies weg, Posthof, and Kaiser Park . .109 
Ecce Homo Kapelle, Franz Josef's Hohe, and Find- 

later's Temple. .114 

Findlater's Pyramid and Freundschafts- Hohe . . 115 

Hirschensprung . . . . . . . .116 

Belvidere and Aberg . . . . . . .118 

Weisses Kreuz and Shutzen Park . . . .120 

Panorama, Waldschloss, and Drei Kreuzberg . . 121 

Wiener Sitz, Sauerbrunn, and Schweizerhof . .122 

Schonbrunn . . . . . . . .123 

Veitsberg 123 

Rothe-Sauerling . . . . . . . .124 

Dallwitz . . . . . . . . .125 

XI. Drives round Carlsbad — 

Hammer, Aich, and Hans Heiling-Fels . . .126 
Engelhaus . . . . . . . . .130 

Elbogen 137 

Giesshiibl-Puchstein . . . . . . .140 

Petschau ......... 144 

Schlaggenwald . . . . . . . .145 

Schlackenwerth and Hauenstein 145 

Falkenau ......... 148 

Joachimsthal and the Sonnenwirbel . . . .148 



CONTENTS. vii 

No. p age 

Kupferberg . . . . • . . . .150 

Fischern, Altrohlau, and Neudeck . . . 151 

XII. Longer Excursions— 

Eger and Marienbad . . . . . . .152 

Frauzensbad ........ 157 

Teplitz . .159 

XIII. Shooting and Fishing 163 

XIV. The Exportation and Products of the Carlsbad 

Waters 165 



Diarrhoea. 



MEDICAL TREATISE. 

I. Action op the Carlsbad Waters . 
II. Use of the Waters .... 

III. External Use of the Waters 

IV. Dietetics during the Use of the Waters 
V. General Indications for the Use of the Waters 

1. Dyspepsia 

2. Gastralgia 

3. Dilatation of the Stomach 

4. Chronic Catarrh of the Bowels, Chronic 

Chronic Constipation . 

5. Colic 

6. Diseases of the Liver and Biliary Ducts 

7. Gallstones and Hepatic Colics 

8. Gravel and Small Calculi of the Kidneys and Bladder 

9. Gout and Chronic Rheumatism 
Bright's Disease 
Diabetes .... 
Haemorrhoids . 
Obesity .... 
Prosopalgia and Migraine 

1 5. Diseases of the Sexual System 
VI. Period at which the Effect of the Waters manifests 

itself 



10. 

II. 

12. 

13. 
14. 



173 

177 
179 

182 

187 

188 
189 
189 

190 

190 
190 

191 

192 

193 

194 

195 

196 
196 
196 

196 

198 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PAGE 

View of Caklsbad ...... Facing title 

Stadtpark 49 

Gartenzeile .......... 83 

Parkstrasse . . 85 

CURHAUS 89 

Neubad 93 

Sprudel Colonnade . . .97 

Marktbrunn 99 

mtjhlbrunn colonnade io3 

Hans Heiling-Fels . . 127 

Engelhaus 131 

Elbogen 137 

Giesshubl-Puchstein 141 

Castle op Hauenstein 145 

Plan of Carlsbad and Environs . in packet at end of volume. 



part I. 

CARLSBAD AND ITS ENVIROXS. 



INTRODUCTION. 

JC 5B5 3SHE Carlsbad season is from the 1st of May to 
^^■^ the 1st of September, the most crowded time 
^vU^2L being from the middle of June till the end of 
July. The spring at Carlsbad is generally early, and 
by ^lay the foliage is well advanced, but the weather 
is apt to be somewhat changeable. Nevertheless the 
bright sunshine and soft invigorating breezes, so wel- 
come to the invalid after the winter is past ; the wild- 
flowers which grow in the woods and on the hillsides 
around Carlsbad in such endless variety ; the cheerful 
notes of the feathered songsters as they herald the 
approaching summer, when their voices will be hushed 
in the drowsy noon-tide heat : and the first fresh green 
and the blossoms of the orchards, amply compensate for 
the few wet days and cloudy skies. 

The summers at Carlsbad are generally very warm, but 
as the life is entirely out of doors, and the walks and 
resting-places delightfully shaded, the discomforts of the 
heat are reduced to a minimum, while, to those who are 
unable to take active exercise, the warm summer days. 



1 2 INTRODUCTION. 

in which they can remain in the open air without risk 
of being chilled, are very welcome. But perhaps the 
pleasantest time of the year at Carlsbad is September 
and October, when there is little rain, and the air is 
clear, dry, and bracing, and the tints of the foliage 
almost rival the brilliant autumn colouring of American 
woods. The disadvantage, however, of remaining after 
the 15th September is that the open-air concerts are 
over and most of the cafes close, although a still con- 
siderable number of visitors remain till November. In 
spite of what several works on Carlsbad, written by 
Carlsbad physicians and others, say about its advan- 
tages as a winter residence, it has no attractions what- 
ever at this season for visitors either sick or well ; the 
hotels are almost all closed ; the sole distraction is an 
occasional concert at the Curhaus ; and the ground being 
generally covered with snow for several months, some- 
times to a considerable depth, walking is difficult and 
unpleasant. 

Americans who intend visiting Carlsbad should try 
and arrange their journey so as to sail from the United 
States in April, which will secure them time to travel 
in Europe, after the course of the cure, at the most 
agreeable season. With the large, fast, and magnifi- 
cently appointed steamers now crossing the Atlantic, 
the voyage is no longer to be dreaded, and indeed is 
exceedingly beneficial to many patients, especially to 
those suffering from disorders of the liver and stomach, 
or from lung complaints. The enforced relaxation from 



INTRODUCTION. I 3 

daily business anxieties during the voyage is also of 
great value to business men, in affording them an 
opportunity of banishing from their minds the cares 
they have left behind them. 

The present travel across the Atlantic has reached 
such large proportions that, in spite of the number of 
steamers sailing weekly, the best state-rooms are gene- 
rally engaged months ahead ; American travellers are 
therefore strongly advised not to leave engaging their 
rooms till near the time of sailing. The seasons the 
steamers are most crowded are, from America, during 
the spring and early summer months, and from England, 
during the late summer and autumn months. If the 
intending traveller be not a good sailor, he should 
secure a berth as nearly amidships as possible, prefer- 
ring the bow to the stern. This is a matter of the 
utmost importance, as the most trying hour on board 
ship is when dressing in the morning, and it will often 
depend on the situation of the state-room whether the 
passenger comes through it safely or not. In rough 
weather the difference between the motion at the bow 
or stern, and amidships is very marked indeed. As 
so much of the comfort at sea, therefore, depends upon 
having a well-situated state-room, it is advisable, if 
possible, to go over the ship and see the position of 
the state-room before engaging it. Nervous invalids 
should not take their state-rooms near the pantry, 
as the clatter of the dishes is very disturbing ; they 
should also, if possible, avoid the proximity of the 



1 4 INTRODUCTION. 

cinder- shoot from the engine-room. Invalids should 
also choose the sunny side of the ship. 

Useful Hints for the Passage. — Travellers are recom- 
mended to get a steamer trunk or bag that will fit 
under the berth, to contain the articles required on the 
passage ; the space between the floor and bottom of 
lower berth is generally about 15 inches. We also 
strongly recommend getting a " steamer chair," which 
will be found most useful on the voyage, especially if 
the weather be at all fine ; a good supply of rugs and 
shawls should also be taken. All the steamers have 
bath-rooms, and those who desire their morning "tub" 
should, as soon as coming on board, register their name 
and the time at which they would like to take their 
bath with the barber or bath-room steward (whoever 
has charge of the baths), as the demand for the baths 
generally exceeds the supply. Travellers making the 
passage across the Atlantic who are liable to sea-sick- 
ness will do well not to put their trust in any of the 
so-called remedies for sea-sickness. Some of these may 
alleviate the trouble on a short passage, but no remedy, 
except that of becoming accustomed to the motion of 
the vessel, will cure sea-sickness on an Atlantic voyage, 
and the best thing the unfortunate sufferer can do is to 
brace up as well as he can, be as much as possible on 
deck, and live plainly ; and, from long experience, we 
can assure timid travellers that it is very rarely mal-de- 
mer lasts more than the first day or two. The purser 
allots the places at table. The usual fees on board the 



INTRODUCTION. I 5 

Atlantic steamers are 10s. each to the table and bed- 
room stewards, and 2s. 6d. to the " boots ; " or in the 
case of ladies, 10s. to the stewardess who attends to the 
ladies' state-rooms. A collection is also made among 
the frequenters of the smoking-room for the smoking- 
room steward. 

The meals on board are usually : — Breakfast be- 
tween 8.30 and 10 A.M. ; lunch, 1 P.M. ; dinner. 
6 P.M. 

Invalids going to Carlsbad can save the fatiguing 
part of the journey from Liverpool to Germany, and 
the discomforts of crossing the Channel, by taking one 
of the fine new steamers " Elbe," " Werra," " Fulda," 
" Ems," or " Eider," of the North German Lloyd, to 
Bremen. The appointments of these steamers are fully 
equal to any of the Liverpool lines, while the cuisine is 
superior. 

General Hints. — We cannot do better than preface 
these remarks with the excellent advice of Dr. E. Gut- 
mann, the well-known authority on European spas, 
" that patients in the last stage of consumption or 
Bright's disease, or other chronic affections, should not 
be allowed to undergo the hardships and the excitement 
of a trip to a watering-place, thereby sacrificing the 
little amount of strength they still possess for the 
imaginary hope of an impossible cure. It is the sacred 
duty of the physician to dissuade them from the journey, 
though very often the contrary takes place. Every bath 
physician during the bath season has the opportunity 



1 6 INTRODUCTION. 

of examining quite a number of incurable invalids, who 
have been sent to the spa by unscrupulous medical 
advisers, never again to return to their homes. Far 
away from their families, surrounded by strangers, 
more helpless and suffering than ever before, they vainly 
long for the tender care of their relatives during the 
last days of their earthly pilgrimage." 

It should not be forgotten that the waters of Carls- 
bad are powerful remedies, and no invalid should go 
there without having first consulted his own physician 
and obtained from him a certificate stating the history 
and nature of his disease, which he should hand to the 
physician at Carlsbad under whose care he intends 
placing himself. This will save the bath physician 
much time and trouble, and enable him to prescribe 
the treatment at Carlsbad with greater certainty. The 
usual stay is four weeks ; but it is quite impossible 
even for an experienced physician to accurately de- 
termine beforehand how long it will be necessary 
for a patient to take the waters, and indeed it is 
often the case that a patient must return for two or 
three consecutive years before a radical cure can be 
effected. 

Having chosen his route, the invalid should proceed 
by short and easy stages, and should by all means avoid 
travelling at night, which on the Continent, with the 
exception of the few lines which run ivagons-lits, is 
most uncomfortable. For the convenience of travellers 
we append to the routes to Carlsbad a list of the most 



INTRODUCTION. 1 7 

interesting places on the way, with the principal sights 
and best hotel at each. 

On all Continental lines the amount of the fare is 
stamped on the tickets. The fare should be tendered 
in the coin of the country, and not in English bank 
notes or gold, as the rate of exchange at the railway 
stations will sometimes be found anything but satisfac- 
tory. The change should always be counted. 

The second class carriages in Germany and Austria 
are comfortable, and are used by a most respectable 
class of travellers, and, except for invalids who may 
wish to have as few fellowrtravellers as possible, the 
small extra comfort of the first class is hardly worth the 
additional cost. In France, however, the second class 
carriages generally speaking are uncomfortable, and 
certainly quite unsuited for ladies or invalids. In tra- 
velling from Paris, or any other place in France, to any 
place in Germany and Austria by the express trains, 
the traveller can purchase a mixed ticket entitling him 
to travel first class to the frontier, and thence to his 
destination in the second class. 

As the trains in the Continent seldom wait long 
enough at the stations to give time for a meal, a lun- 
cheon basket should always be taken. 

When circular or through tickets are taken the 
ticket must be stamped at the ticket office, both on 
arrival and departure, when the journey is broken at 
any intermediate station. 

Travellers should always be careful to see that the 

B 



1 8 INTRODUCTION. 

conductor when collecting the ticket tears out the 
proper coupon. 

In Germany and Austria smoking is permitted in all 
carriages except those marked 'Nicht Raucher,' and 
in compartments reserved for ladies. In France com- 
partments are set apart for travellers who wish to smoke 
(marked c Fumeurs') ; and no smoking is allowed in 
any other except with the consent of the occupants. 
The guard will always interfere to prevent smoking in 
the non-smoking compartments if he is requested to do 
so. Lavatories and other conveniences, ' cabinets am- 
bulants,' are attached to most of the express trains. 

With regard to luggage, on the ocean steamers no 
limit is made, and whatever may be the printed rules of 
the steamship companies on the subject, practically, the 
traveller is permitted to carry all the personal luggage 
he may desire. In France and Belgium 56 lbs. of lug- 
gage per passenger is carried free, but on the Rhine 
railways, and on most of the German lines, a charge is 
made for all luggage except such as is taken in the 
carriage. The charge for extra luggage on the Con- 
tinent is very high, and if the visitor to Carlsbad 
intends taking a quantity of luggage with him, con- 
siderable expense may be saved by sending it on by 
goods trains through some express company. Baggage 
forwarded in this way, however, should be sent on at 
least a week in advance. 

English bank notes and gold can be exchanged every- 
where on the Continent. The rate of exchange is 



INTRODUCTION. 



19 



generally 25 francs, 20 marks, or 12 Austrian florins 
to the pound, but a little more than this can be ob- 
tained at respectable banks or exchange offices. Eng- 
lish silver is of no use except at a very low exchange. 

As the weather of Carlsbad is liable to sudden 
changes, visitors should be provided with both warm 
and light clothing. It is not necessary for invalids to 
encumber their luggage with a number of " invalid 
comforts," such as English tea, biscuits, &c, as they 
can be obtained at Carlsbad. Smokers, however, who 
are particular, should take their cigars, cigarettes, and 
tobacco, although they will find when they have paid 
the duty they will have become somewhat expensive. 

Routes to Carlsbad. 

The two main routes from London to Carlsbad are — 

(1.) Via Brussels, Cologne, Mayence, Aschaffenburg, 
and Eger. Between Aschaffenburg and Eger some of 
the trains run via Nuremberg, and others via Bamberg 
and Oberkotzau. Travellers intending to go through 
without stopping will find this the quickest and most 
direct route. 

(2.) Via Paris, Strassburg, Carlsruhe, Stuttgart, 
Nuremberg, and Eger. 

The length of the journey, of course, depends upon 
the length of the stoppages made by the way, but the 
time consumed in actual travelling is about one and 
a half days via Calais or Ostend. 



20 INTRODUCTION. 

The best train from London via Calais and Ostend 
is the 8 p.m., as it gives an opportunity of travelling up 
the Rhine by daylight. 

If the journey to Brussels is taken by the London, 
Chatham, and Dover service, via Queenborough and 
Flushing, or by the Great Eastern service, via Harwich 
and Rotterdam or Antwerp, the time is about four to 
six hours longer. The steamers on both these services 
are large, swift, and exceedingly comfortable, and the 
fares about twenty shillings cheaper. 

The night express trains from Calais, Ostend, Flush- 
ing, Rotterdam, and Antwerp to Cologne have sleeping 
carriages. Travellers from Paris can take the Orient 
Express, leaving in the evening, as far as Stuttgart, 
where it arrives about nine o'clock the next morning. 
This train, which is exceedingly comfortable, is com- 
posed entirely of sleeping, dining, and drawing-room 
carriages. The fares are about 25 per cent, more than 
by the ordinary expresses, but to those who can afford 
it, the additional comfort is well worth the extra charge. 

Carlsbad can also be reached from Paris by Strass- 
burg, Appenweier, Heidelberg, and Aschaffenburg (see 
above). Also by Pagny-sur-Moselle, Forbach, Binger- 
bruck, Mayence, and Aschaffenburg (see above). These 
routes take from four to six hours longer than the 
route via Stuttgart. 

(3.) An exceedingly pleasant and interesting route to 
Carlsbad, though somewhat longer and more expensive 






INTRODUCTION. 2 I 

than the above routes, is from Paris to Bale, thence to 
Zurich and Rorschach, across the Lake of Constance 
by steamer to Lindau. thence to Munich, Pilsen, and 
Carlsbad. 

Note. — Through tickets are only issued from London 
by Route I. 



Routes from London. 


Fares. 


Single Tickets. 


Return Tickets, avail- 
able for 30 days. 


isc CI. ] 2nd CI. 


1st CI. 


2nd CI. 


Harwich, Rotterdam, Col- \ 
ogne, Mayence, "Wurz- K 
burg, Nuremburg, Eger j 

Queenboro', Flushing, Col- ^ 
ogne, Mayence, &c, as > 
above J 

Harwich, Antwerp, Brus- \ 
sels, Cologne, Mayence, > 
&c, as above .... J 

Dover, Calais (or Ostend), ) 
Brussels, &c, as above . J 


£ s. d. ' £ s. d. 
5 i^ 3 4 3 7 

627490 

5 17 4 3 

6 17 05 


£ s. d. £ s. d. 
10 14 9 7 14 8 

10 18 7 18 6 

10 10 6 7 10 
n 17 6 8 15 3 



The fares via Paris are about £7, 10s. first class, 
and ^5, 5 s. second class. 

Principal Places of Interest ox the above Routes. 

Route I. 

Brussels. — Hotel Mengelle. Sights : Cathedral of St. 
Guduld, Hotel de Ville, Kings Palace, Museums, Zoo- 
logical Gardens, Wiertz Museum, Gallery of the Duke 



2 2 INTRODUCTION. 

of Arenberg, the New Palais de Justice, and the Bois 
de Cambre. 

Azx-la-Chapelle. — Hotel Grand Monarque. Sights : 
Cathedral, Rathaus, Elisenbrunnen, Kurhaus, Suer- 
mondt Museum, and Lousberg. 

Cologne. — Hotel du Nord. Sights : Cathedral, Wall- 
raf-Richartz Museum, Episcopal Museum, Rathaus, 
Giirzenich, Churches of St. Gereon, St. Maria-im- 
Capitol, and St. Ursula, Monument of Frederick 
William III., Flora and Zoological Gardens. 

Collenz. — Hotel du Geant. Sights : Fortress of 
Ehrenbreit stein, Rhine Promenade, Church of St. 
Castor, The Castor Brunnen, The Burg, Kaufhaus, 
Moselle Bridge, Imperial Palace, The Petersberg. 

Mayence. — Hotel de Hollande. Sights : Cathedral, 
Gutenberg Monument, The Citadel and Eigelstein, 
Museum in the Palace, New Promenade on the Rhine. 

Frankfort. — Hotel Schwan. Sights : The Kaisersaal 
in the Romer, Cathedral, Ariadneum, Picture Galleries 
of the Stadel Institute, Kunst Verein, and Kunstge- 
werbe-Verein, Historical Museum, Jenkenberg Natural 
History Museum, New Opera, Zoological Garden, Palm 
Garden. 

Wurzberg. — Hotel Kronprinz. Sights : Cathedral, 
Neue Minister, Royal Palace, Marien Kapelle, Citadel. 

Nuremberg. — Hotel de Baviere. Sights : Church of 
St. Lawrence, Frauen Kirche, Rathaus, Church of St. 
Sebaldus, Schone Brunnen, Germanic Museum, The 
Burg. 



INTRODUCTION. 2 3 



Route II. 



Strasbuvg. — Hotel de la Ville de Paris. Sights : 
Cathedral, Church of St. Thomas, Statue of Gutenberg, 
The Broglie. 

Stuttgart. — Hotel Marquardt. Sights : Konigs Bau, 
New Palace, Old Palace, Stifts Kirche, Natural His- 
tory Museum, Museum of Art, Stadt Garten, and 
Anlagen. 

Route III. 

Bah. — Hotel Trois Rois. Sights : Cathedral, Cathe- 
dral Museum, Rathaus, Town Museum, Zoological 
Garden. 

Zurich. — Hotel Bauer au Lac. Sights : Stadt Gar- 
ten, Stadthaus, Grossmunster, St. Peter's Church, 
Wasser Kirche, The Tonhalle, Hohe Promenade, Town 
Museum, Kunster Glitli Museum, The Arsenal, Botanic 
Garden, Excursion to the Uetliberg. 

Munich. — Hotel Four Seasons. Sights: Royal Palace, 
Alte Pinakothek, Glyptothek, Neue Pinakothek, 
National Museum, The Basilica, Count Schack's Pic- 
ture Gallery, The Propylsea, Monument of Maximilian 
II., Mariahilf Kirche, Royal Library, Hof Garten, 
Aquarium, Hall of Fame and Statue of Bavaria, 
English Garden. 



24 



INTRODUCTION. 



TABLE OF MONEY, WEIGHTS, AND MEASURES. 



American. 


English. 


French, Swiss, 
or Italian. 


German. 


Austrian. 


Dols. cents. 


£ s. d. 


Frs. centms. 


Marks. Pf. 


Florins. Kr. 


O I 


oj 
2J 


t; 


4 


O 2j\ p 


o 5 


25 


20 


° IO J S 


O IO 


005 


50 


40 


2 5 |[g 


o 20 


9J 


1 


80 


51 >B. 


25 


010 


1 25 


1 


60 [ 3 


50 


020 


2 50 


2 


1 20 £+- 


I 


040 


5 


4 


2 40 y a 


4 86 


100 


25 20 


20 30 


12 55 actual 



(The Austrian gulden or florin equals 15. Sd. English money.) 



Weights (Approximate). 

1 Gramme = ^s oz - 
1 Hectogramme = 3J oz. 
1 Kilogramme = 2.\ lbs. 
51 Kilogrammes = 1 cwt. 
1 015 Kilogrammes = 1 ton. 



Linear Measures. 

1 Centimetre = § inch. 
1 Metre = 3 ft. 3J inches. 
1 Kilometre = | mile. 
8 Kilometres = 5 miles. 



Land Measures. 

1 Centiare = i\ sq. yd. 

1 Are = \ acre. 

1 Hectare = 2.\ acres. 



Fluid Measures. 

1 Litre = if pints. 
4I Litres = 1 gallon. 
1 Hectolitre = 22 gallons. 



THERMOMETER. 



Far. 


Cent. 


Reau- 
mur. 


Far. 


Cent. 


Reau- 
mur. 


Far. 


Cent. 


Reau- 
mur. 


Far. 


Cent. 


Reau- 
mur. 


104 


40° 


32° 


77° 


25° 


24° , 


55° 


13° 


IO° 


37° 


3° 


2° 


98 


37 


29 


76 


24 


19 ! 


5o 


10 


8 


35 


1-25 


1 


95 


35 


28 


68 


20 


16 ! 


41 


5 


4 


33 


1 


o-8 


86 


30 


24 


59 


15 


12 


39 


4 


3 


32 





O'O 



II. 

SITUATION AND CLIMATE. 

t^VrStefAHLSBAD, one of the most attractive and 
iSjC^S 1 beautiful of European watering-places, is situ- 
*K8S2< ated in the north-west of Bohemia, in lat. 50° 
and long. 13 . The town lies in the narrow and 
winding valley of the Tepel, near its junction with the 
Eger, 1 1 24 feet above the level of the sea. On either 
side of the valley rise picturesque and rugged hills of 
volcanic formation, the highest of which, called the 
Ewige Leben, or \ Eternal Life,' is 2003 feet above the 
sea-level, or 879 feet above the town. These hills are 
covered with woods of pine, spruce, beech, elm, birch, 
and oak ; spruce and pine predominating. Numberless 
paths intersect the wocds in all directions, affording 
shady and picturesque walks, and on the level portion 
of the valley, and over some of the gentler slopes, are 
well-kept carriage roads. The composition of these 
hills is of three varieties of granite : gneiss, quartz, and 
argillaceous schist, the rocks being intersected with the 
usual fissures accompanying this formation. On some 
of the hills are strata and out-croppings of basalt, and 
extensive veins of hornstone. 



26 CLIMATE. 

A humorist has said that Carlsbad " is built on the 
lid of a boiling kettle/' which is almost literally true, as 
it stands on a crust of comparative thinness, through 
which rise no less than nineteen springs of various 
temperatures. Borings which have been made in the 
crust have reached a vast and seething subterranean 
cauldron below, of immeasurable depth. This crust, 
on which the Marktplatz, the Kreuzgasse, and the 
Muhlbrunn Colonnade are built, is mostly composed 
of Sprudelstein, or Sprudelschelle (Sprudel-stone or 
Sprudel-shell), a hard stone, capable of taking a fine 
polish. The Sprudelstein is supposed to have been 
formed by the mineral constituents of the springs being 
gradually deposited as they came into contact with the 
open air (see page 95). 

The Climate of Carlsbad, like that of all mountainous 
districts, is rather changeable, but the air is remarkably 
pure and invigorating, the town never having been 
visited by any contagious diseases or epidemics. It 
entirely escaped the Pest of the Middle Ages, and during 
the Austro-German war, when cholera, brought by the 
sick and wounded soldiers, was raging in the surround- 
ing districts, not a single case occurred at Carlsbad. 
There is no stagnant water in the neighbourhood, and 
consequently malaria is unknown. In summer, even 
when the days are very warm, the nights and early morn- 
ings are generally cool and invigorating. Owing to 
the character of its soil, which permits of moisture being 
rapidly absorbed, the roads and paths around Carlsbad 



CLIMATE. 27 

become perfectly dry, and are fit for walking in a few 
hours, after even heavy rain. The mean temperature 
of the year is 43 J° Fahr. ; in summer, 66\° Fahr. ; in 
spring and autumn, 47 ° Fahr. ; and in winter 27/^° Fahr. 
The prevailing winds are from the west and north, the 
latter of which, having free access to the town, is gener- 
ally cool and bracing. 



( 28 ) 



III. 

HISTORY AND REMINISCENCES OF CARLSBAD. 

K*V^jO}ARLSBAD is one of the very few important 
iJ^Sj European watering-places which does not 
>^<mN-*i appear to have been known to the Eomans. 
The town was originally incorporated by King John 
of Luxemburg, who, by an ancient charter dated 1325, 
conferred on it certain rights and privileges, though 
there is no doubt from the name, Wary, or ' Warm,' that 
the hot springs were known long before this period. 

The discovery of the springs is traditionally attributed 
to the Emperor Charles IV., son of King John, who in 
the year 1358 was hunting in the neighbourhood while 
on a visit to the castle of Elbogen (see page 137). One 
of his dogs while following a wounded deer fell over a 
cliff, since called the c Hirschensprung,' or Deer's Leap 
(see page 116), into one of the hot springs below. 
Attracted by its cries, the hunters came to the rescue of 
the animal, and on taking it out, found it severely 
wounded by its fall. Its subsequent recovery was so 
rapid, that the Emperor s physician attributed it to the 
healing power of the water, and he induced his royal 



HISTORY. 29 

master, who was suffering from an old wound in his leg, 
received at the battle of Crecy, to test its efficacy. 
The Emperors wound also rapidly healed, and in 
gratitude he founded a town at the springs and named 
it Carlsbad. 

As, however, the existence of the springs was known 
long before this time, the legend, as far as their first 
discovery is concerned, is purely mythical, though the 
incident itself may actually have occurred. But if the 
Emperor did not first discover Carlsbad, he gave it its 
present name, extended the charter granted by King 
John, and built a royal residence in the town. 

Of the early history of Carlsbad we have no certain 
data, as the archives of the town were almost entirely 
destroyed by fire in 1604. In the middle of the sixth 
century the Eger district was settled by a horde of Slavs, 
who came from the plains of Russia and Lithuania, and 
from whom the present Bohemian people are descended. 
These Slavs were pagans, and it was not until after 
Bohemia was united to the German Empire by Charle- 
magne in a.d. 800, that Christianity began to spread 
among them ; indeed, paganism did not finally disappear 
till the tenth century. In the ninth century the district 
of Eger came into possession of the powerful Margrave 
Yohburg, who built the castle of Elbogen in 870, and it 
seems impossible that the remarkable phenomena of the 
hot springs should have been unknown to those who 
lived so near them. A chronicle written about this time 
mentions the rivers Tepel and Eger, which in the ori- 



30 HISTORY. 

ginal Slav language meant 'tepid' and c re-warmed/ 
Another curious fact is that the walls of the castle of 
Neudeck, built at the commencement of the thirteenth 
century, and distant about nine miles from Carlsbad, 
are partly constructed of Sprudelstone. 

In 1 149 the whole of the Eger district, together with 
the towns of Falkenau, Elbogen, and Warmbad (or 
Wary), became the personal property of the German 
Emperor, Frederick Barbarossa, who received it as a 
dowry on his marriage with Adelheid, daughter of the 
Margrave Diebold von Vohburg. 

The nomenclature of the towns and villages which 
were founded before the commencement of the twelfth 
century is almost entirely Slavonic ; the settlements 
founded after the district came into possession of the 
Emperor Frederick Barbarossa in 1149 having been 
generally given German names. We may, therefore, 
assume that the towns, and villages, and castles with 
Bohemian names were founded before, and those with 
German, founded after this date. 

In 1306 John of Luxemburg, the blind King who 
was killed at the battle of Crecy in 1349, was elected 
King of Bohemia, and in 1317 he visited the castle of 
Elbogen (see page 137) with his consort and his infant 
son. In 1325, by a charter which still exists, he enfiefed 
the town and granted it certain privileges, which he 
increased by a second charter dated 1337. In 1358 the 
Emperor Charles IV., son of King John, built a royal 
castle at Carlsbad, at which time the town consisted of 



HISTORY. 3 1 

only forty houses, and in 1 370 granted a new charter, 
conferring on the citizens rights of self-government and 
the free choice of magistrates. A transcript of this 
charter, in which Wary is first called Carlsbad, still 
exists. Charles died in 1378, and his son, Wencelaus I., 
confirmed all these privileges. At the end of the four- 
teenth or beginning of the fifteenth centuries the estate 
of Elbogen, with Carlsbad, was separated from the dis- 
trict of Eger, and came into possession of the Bohemian 
royal family : how, is not exactly known, but the first 
step which led to this was doubtless the foreclosing 
of a mortgage of 7000 marks silver, which Wencelaus 
I. claimed had been lent by his father, Charles IV., to 
the heirs of Frederick Barbarossa. 

An eventful period in the history of Carlsbad com- 
mences with the mortgaging in 1434 of the Burgravate 
of Elbogen by the crown to the Chancellor Caspar 
Schlick for 11,900 florins. Schlick had constant feuds 
with a neighbouring magnate, Count Von Eulenburg, 
who, in the prosecution of certain personal claims he 
had against the Chancellor, made frequent raids on 
Carlsbad and the Elbogen district, burning the houses 
and plundering the inhabitants. These outrages were 
returned in kind by Schlick and his followers, till they 
reached such a height that the German Parliament in 
1444 passed a special Act for their suppression. In 
1455 Heronimus Schlick, the nephew of Caspar, mort- 
gaged the castle of Carlsbad to Count Polaczky von 
Polaky for 500 florins, reserving to himself the protec- 



32 HISTORY. 

torate of the town. A feud soon broke out between these 
nobles; the citizens of Elbogen siding with Schlick, 
and those of Carlsbad taking the part of Polaky. In 
one of their numerous fights Polaky took 200 of the 
Elbogeners prisoners and brought them to the castle 
at Carlsbad, which was, however, shortly afterwards 
besieged and taken by Schlick, and the prisoners set at 
liberty. This feud was finally settled by arbitration, 
and three umpires were appointed by King Wladislaw, 
the decision being that Schlick had to pay to Polaky 
600 florins to redeem his debt, and receive back his 
castle at Carlsbad. 

In 1462 civil war broke out in Bohemia owing 
to the issue of a Papal bull by Pope Pius forbidding 
the taking of the wine at the sacrament by laymen. 
King George of Bohemia, on his refusal to allow his 
subjects to obey the bull, was deposed by the Pope, 
who offered the crown to King Matthias Corvinus of 
Hungary. The greater part of Bohemia rebelled and 
went over to King Matthias, but a still influential 
number of his subjects, among whom were the Burgrave 
Schlick and his vassals of Elbogen and Carlsbad, 
remained faithful for a time. Owing, however, to the 
rapidly increasing power of King Matthias and the 
persuasions of Papal emissaries, together with threats 
of excommunication from Eome, they finally deserted 
their sovereign, and sent him a letter renouncing their 
allegiance. After the restoration of peace on the 
death of George, the Burgrave Matthias Schlick 



HISTORY. 33 

commenced to plunder and oppress the citizens of 
Elbogen and Carlsbad, and succeeded in making himself 
so unpopular that he lost all control over his followers. 
Schlick vainly appealed to King Matthias for assist- 
ance to quell the insurrection, and finding himself 
unable to cope with his rebellious vassals, he made over 
the Burgravate of Elbogen and Carlsbad in 1 470 to the 
brothers, Elector Ernst and Duke Albrecht of Saxony, 
for the sum of 2 3,000 florins. The Elbogeners, however, 
relished as little the rule of their new masters as of 
their former ruler, and declined to take the oath of alle- 
giance. The brothers took up arms in 147 1, and laid 
siege to the castle of Elbogen, which was surrendered 
by treachery, and numbers of its defenders were hung 
over the castle walls. After the subjugation of the 
Elbogeners peace was concluded, Schlick being per- 
mitted to remain actual lord in fief, while Duke 
Albrecht became lord protector. No sooner, however, 
was Schlick reinstated than he began a second time to 
harass and oppress the citizens of Elbogen and Carls- 
bad, and on their again showing signs of rebellion he 
arranged with Duke Albrecht to make another raid on 
Elbogen. This plan was executed on the night of the 
1st October 1476; the town was taken and plundered, 
and frightful atrocities were committed by Schlick 
and his followers, in consequence of which many of the 
citizens emigrated. 

For the next fifty vears the history of the town is 
simply one of petty feuds and personal quarrels. 



34 HISTORY. 

In 1480 we have the first mention of a ' Cur-guest/ 
Fraulein Barbara Schenk von Frautenburg, who came 
for the cure accompanied by her mother. 

In 1 53 1 Albert Schlick, grandson of Matthias, 
founded in Carlsbad a hospital for indigent patients, 
which he dedicated to the Holy Spirit. He also 
obtained a charter from King Wladislaw giving him 
the right to exact from all visitors to Carlsbad, rich or 
poor, a donation for the hospital ; the amount being 
left to the guests themselves. This was the first 
1 Cur-tax ' imposed at Carlsbad. 

In 1533 Albert Schlick exchanged with his cousin, 
Hermonius, the Burgravate of Elbogen and Carlsbad 
for that of Winteritz. On the outbreak of the war 
between Bohemia and Saxony, Hermonius Schlick 
renounced his allegiance to his sovereign and joined 
the Saxon army. After the disastrous defeat of the 
Saxons at the battle of Muhlberg, 24th April 1547, 
Hermonius was outlawed, but on the conclusion of 
peace he managed to obtain a pardon from the Emperor 
Ferdinand I., his estates of Elbogen and Carlsbad, how- 
ever, being confiscated to the crown. The town of 
Carslbad was then incorporated and made a royal 
borough, and the citizens took the oath of allegiance 
to Ferdinand. 

There being now no resident Burgrave, the castle 
of Carlsbad for a long time remained unoccupied, 
and the citizens not wishing to see this historic 
building fall into decay, petitioned the Emperor 



HISTORY. 35 

Maximilian to make it over to the town for the use of 
the fire-brigade. This request was granted by a deed 
dated 1567. 

The crown still retained possession of all the land 
and other property attached to the Burgravate of 
Carlsbad, and the citizens for many years tried in vain 
to acquire them. They, however, succeeded at last in 
purchasing them from the needy Emperor Rudolph in 
1598 for the sum of 52,800 marks. By this purchase 
the town gained considerably, and also greatly extended 
its influence and status. 

When the Reformation began to spread in Bohemia 
at the commencement of the sixteenth century, the then 
reigning Burgrave, Sebastian Schlick, who was a friend 
of Luther, energetically devoted himself to furthering 
the cause of the new faith, and succeeded in establishing 
the Protestant religion throughout the whole Eger dis- 
trict. The first Reformed preacher, Wolfgang Rappold, 
was appointed in Elbogen in 1523. A Lutheran pastor 
was doubtless appointed about the same time to Carlsbad, 
though the first reference made in existing records is 
to the preaching of Andreas Hampisch in the Andreas 
Church in 1554. After the death of the Emperor 
Rudolph in 161 2, his successor, Ferdinand II., who was 
bitterly opposed to the Reformed faith, re-established the 
Catholic religion throughout Bohemia, and in 1624 the 
parish church of Carlsbad was again made over to the 
Romanists, in consequence of which the last Lutheran 
pastor, Johann Georg Kreizel, together with a large 



36 HISTORY. 

number of the citizens, emigrated to Saxony and founded 
the town of Johanngeorgenstadt. On the Galgenburg, 
above the Chapel of St. Mary, is a large stone which 
commemorates this exodus. 

During the Thirty Years' War Carlsbad suffered 
severely, the town being repeatedly sacked, and many of 
the citizens killed. 

The fame of Carlsbad as a resort for crowned heads 
and personages of the highest rank dates from the 
visit of the Archduke Ferdinand in 1 571, who was 
accompanied by his consort, Philippina Welser, the 
daughter of an Augsburg merchant, who won all hearts, 
even of the Archduke's royal relations, by her beauty 
and accomplishments. 

In 1630 Carlsbad was visited by Wallenstein, Duke 
of Friedland, who was afterwards barbarously mur- 
dered in the Castle of Eger (see page 153). 

In 1683 the Crown Prince of Saxony, afterwards 
George III., with the Duke of Lauenburg, came to 
Carlsbad for the cure, accompanied with a large retinue, 
and stayed six weeks. During their visit they gave 
great entertainments, at one of which, we are told, an 
ox stuffed with capons was roasted whole and served 
in the Fest Platz, now occupied by the garden of the 
Hotel Goldener Schild. All the inhabitants of the town 
were summoned to the banquet by a fanfare of trumpets 
and kettledrums stationed on the Hirschensprung. The 
Prince, dressed in a servant's livery of red and green, 
waited on the guests himself. The festivities wound 



HISTORY. 37 

up with a ball, the music being supplied by an or- 
chestra of fiddles, pipes, and steinbok horns ! 

In 1 69 1 Augustus I., King of Poland, accompanied 
by the famous beauty, Aurora, Countess von Konig- 
stein, took the cure at Carlsbad. He was accompanied 
by so many soldiers that temporary barracks had to be 
erected for their accommodation in the fields. He 
entertained the visitors and townspeople with tourna- 
ments on the Alte Wiese, and on the Allee Platz he 
gave a grand entertainment in a ballroom he had 
erected, and decorated with Bohemian lustres and 
mirrors. We are told he provided a surprise for his 
guests by having the water from the Sprudel conducted 
in pipes to the ballroom, and while the ball was at its 
height he had the water turned on and gave the 
dancers a thorough drenching. 

At this time the Cur-guests at Carlsbad were such 
insatiate pleasure - seekers that, in addition to the 
almost nightly fetes, they had matinees dansantes every 
day from 1 1 A.M. to I P.M. 

The years 171 1 and 17 1 2 were memorable from the 
visits of Peter the Great, who came to be cured of 
rheumatism. 

We are told that the Czar on his arrival was ordered 
by his physician to take three glasses of the waters 
before breakfast, but by some misunderstanding he 
thought three large pitchers were meant. He managed 
to get down one, and was almost choking over the second, 
when the doctor, fortunately appearing, informed him of 



38 HISTORY. 

his mistake. He must, besides this, have swallowed a 
considerable quantity of the waters during his stay, as he 
was in the habit of taking twenty-three glasses at a time. 
In a letter dated 19th September, written to the 
Empress Catherine, he says : " We, thank God, are 
well, only our bellies are swelled up with water, because 
we drink like horses, and have nothing else to do." In 
the following year he writes again to his wife : " We 
began to drink the waters at this hole yesterday. How 
it works I will write, but don't look for any other news 
from this wilderness." The treatment may have bene- 
fited him in a bodily sense, but it certainly did not 
improve his violent temper. We are told that he took 
part in the annual shooting match at Carlsbad, and 
carried off the prize. One of the spectators, whose 
admiration had been excited by his fine shooting, began 
to vigorously applaud, when the Czar, thinking he was 
trying to distract his aim, fired at him, but fortunately 
missed him. On another occasion he assisted at the 
building of a house, laying the stones with his own 
hands. One of the masons, who was gazing at him in 
astonishment, was the victim of a similar outbreak of 
temper. One of the peculiarities of the Czar was an 
intense dislike of being watched while he was at work, 
and on seeing the mason looking at him he became 
so enraged that he threw a trowelful of mortar in his 
face. On finding his mistake, however, he made ample 
amends in both cases by apologising and presenting the 
men with handsome sums of money. There being no 



HISTORY. 39 

Eussian church at Carlsbad, the Czar went daily to offer 
up his prayers before the cross on the Hirschensprung, 
on the spot since named the Petershohe (see page 117). 

At the shooting match referred to, the Czar had given 
as the prize, a cask of wine, which had been sent him by 
the Emperor Charles VI., and on winning it himself 
he refused to take it back. Another contest was there- 
fore held, in which the Czar did not compete. The 
winner of the cask at the second contest had it bottled 
in small flasks which readily sold at a high price, and 
invested the proceeds for the benefit of the shooting 
society, to whom this fund still yields an income of 
thirty florins a year. The target which the Czar shot 
at is preserved in the Schiesshaus. 

It was at Carlsbad that Peter carried on the nego- 
tiations for the marriage of his son Alexis with 
the Princess Charlotte of Wolfenbiittel, whom the 
Prince first met at the Castle of Schlackenwerth. It 
was at first proposed that the marriage should take 
place secretly at Carlsbad, but it was eventually solem- 
nised at Dresden. The Czar left Carlsbad to attend 
the marriage, contrary to the advice of his physicians, 
which led to his experiencing a serious relapse. During 
his second visit to Carlsbad in 1 7 1 2 Peter renewed his 
acquaintance with the celebrated philosopher Leibnitz, 
whose advice received at that time proved of such 
assistance to the Czar in introducing reforms into 
Russia. The Czar lived in the house 'Zum Rothen 
Herz/ on the Alte Wiese. 



40 HISTOEY. 

In the same year, 171 2, the Empress Christina of 
Austria, with a large retinue, visited Carlsbad, accom- 
panied by her daughter, the Princess Maria Theresa, 
then four years of age. In honour of her visit the citizens 
had a beautiful drinking goblet made for her at the 
famous porcelain manufactory at Meissen. This goblet 
is now in the museum at Prague. 

In 1732 Carlsbad was honoured with a visit from the 
Emperor Charles II. and his consort, the Empress 
Christina, who seem to have been accompanied by about 
half the nobility of Austria. The town records of that 
time relate that it required 6600 horses to convey their 
Majesties and their retinue to the place. The Emperor 
during his stay took a great interest in Carlsbad. He 
rebuilt the parish church, and gave largely to the 
charities and for improving the town. 

During the war of succession, which broke out after 
the ascent of Maria Theresa to the throne of Austria in 
1740, Carlsbad suffered severely, as well as Eger and 
Elbogen, these three towns being sacked by the French 
and the citizens laid under heavy contribution. 

In 1762 the first Cur- lists were published. These 
lists were in writing, the first printed lists not being 
published till 1794. 

In 1766 commenced what may be termed a new era 
in the history of Carlsbad, as in that year the celebrated 
physician, Dr. David Becher, made the first scientific 
analysis of the medical and chemical properties of the 
waters, and laid down regulations for their use which 



HISTORY. 41 

were practically the same as those in force to-day, and 
which have proved so beneficial to hundreds of thousands 
of patients for the last century. From this time the 
number of visitors has steadily increased ; — from 445 in 
1785 to 28,600 in 1885. This rapid increase encouraged 
the municipal authorities to provide better accommoda- 
tion for visitors, and to take steps for making the town 
more attractive. Fine chestnut alleys were planted 
and walks were laid out along the Tepel and through 
the woods. In 1774 a new drinking and bathing hall 
was erected in place of the old Sprudel Hall. 

One of the most celebrated leaders of Carlsbad society 
at this period was Count Maurice von Brithl, the inti- 
mate friend of Admiral Orloff (see page 114). At one 
of the great open-air fetes he gave on the Plobensberg 
fresh flowers were fastened to the trees in the woods, 
which gave them the appearance of a forest in bloom. 

In 1784 the municipality erected the fine stone 
bridge over the Eger which now leads to the railway 
station. 

In 1794 the "Sprudel Book," in which all visitors 
entered their voluntary contributions, was abolished, 
and an act was passed ordering that every nobleman 
should pay a cur-tax of two florins, and every commoner 
one florin. In 1800 the walls which confine the course 
of the Tepel were built, and a row of wooden booths or 
shops erected along the 'Alte Wiese.' At this time 
Carlsbad benefited greatly from the visits of Lord 
Findlater, a Scotch nobleman, who, in gratitude for 






42 HISTORY. 

the great benefit lie derived from drinking the waters, 
gave large sums of money to the local charities and for 
laying out and beautifying the environs of the town. 

In 1785, when thirty-four years of age, Goethe paid his 
first visit to Carlsbad, where he afterwards spent many 
of the happiest and most fruitful years of his life. He 
altogether paid fourteen visits to Carlsbad, and there is 
little doubt but that the drinking of the waters greatly 
contributed to prolong his life and added greatly to his 
vigour of both mind and body. The houses in the 
Markt Platz in which he lived are marked by marble 
tablets. Goethe from his youth was afflicted with a 
painful malady which caused himself and his friends 
great anxiety. After much suffering he was at last 
persuaded to try the efficacy of the Carlsbad waters. 
Shortly after his first arrival in 1785 he wrote that 
he had already experienced great benefit, and that 
pleasant intercourse with the visitors had " rubbed off 
the rust" he had gathered in the retired life he had 
hitherto been obliged to lead. A touching incident is 
related of his visit in 1819. " The 28th August being 
his seventieth birthday, the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg 
provided a pleasant and most agreeable surprise for 
him by bringing the old clock which hung up in the 
house where he first saw the light and spent his youth 
at Frankfort, and having it hung up in his Carlsbad 
lodgings. "When Goethe awoke early in the morning 
and heard the clock strike the hour, he called to his ser- 
vant, saying, ' I hear a clock strike that arouses all the 



HISTORY. 43 

memories of my childhood. Is i: a dream or a reality?' 
Then he got up, and learning the truth, was moved : ; 
tears," His last visit was in 1823, He was then 
seventy-four, but, susceptible as ever, he fell in love 
with a charming young lady, Fraulein von Levetz;~. 
He proposed marriage, which she declined, although 
she never married afterwards, and when the bust of the 
poet was unveiled in 1 88 3 she sent a wreath of flowers 
to be laid at its foot. During his visits Goethe wrote a 
number of odes on subjects connected with Carlsbad. 

The period embracing the close of the eighteenth 
and commencement of the nineteenth century was the 
a golden age ; : C : rlsbad. The royal and noble visitors 
vied with each other in the orioinalitv and costlines- rf 
their entertainments. Among the most celebrated files 
was the Chinese banquet given in 17S6 by the Countess 
Ozinska, when the Alte Wiese was lighted with 1 500 
coloured lanterns and lined with small pavilions deco- 
rated with mirror s. On the Pupp'sehe Allee an i mm ense 
Chinese pagoda was erected, in which the servant :: 
the Countess, dressed in Chinese costume, served the 
st. Another curious entertainment was given in 
: "7 by the Duke of Saxe-Gotha to the beautiful 
Duchess Dorothee of Curland (see page 122). In a 
meadow near the Franzens Briicke hay was being 
made, and the Duke had invited all the visitors to take a 
drive along the Eger. "While the carriages were passing 
the field the Duke suggested that his guests should 
alight and join in the merriment of the haymakers, who 



44 HISTORY. 

were dancing to the music of pipes and fiddles. His 
proposal was at once adopted, and after the dance was 
over their host led the guests to an immense hayrick 
which stood in the meadow, and from which sounds of 
music were apparently proceeding. On their approach 
it fell apart, and disclosed a sumptuous banquet spread 
on a long table, over one end of which a gallery filled 
with musicians had been erected. Besides these fetes, 
there were, almost daily, balls, balloon ascents, chess 
tournaments, where the places of the chessmen were 
taken by children suitably attired, and concerts in which 
the most celebrated musicians in Europe took part. 

In 1 79 1 the poet Schiller visited Carlsbad with his 
wife, to whom he had been married the year before. We 
gather from his letters written during his stay that the 
time he passed was the happiest period in his life. It 
was during this visit that Rheinhardt painted the cele- 
brated portrait of the poet. He lodged at the house 
' Zum Weissen Schwan,' near the Johannisbrucke. 

In 1809 the town suffered severely in the French 
war, the number of guests being reduced from 1200 
the year previous, to 112. L11813 the visitors from 
Saxony and Poland and other states then at war with 
Saxony were ordered to leave the baths within three 
days. In 1 8 19 the celebrated conference which was 
held to decide the settlement of Europe after the 
Napoleonic wars, and which lasted from 7th August to 
20th December, assembled at Carlsbad, in the Hotel 
Zum Weissen Lowen. Shortly after the battle of 



HISTOKY. 45 

"Waterloo Marshal Bluclier paid a visit to Carlsbad, and 
was much feted by the Cur-guests. He is said to have 
remarked that " he had been an enemy to water all his 
life, but now the devil had sent him where he could get 
nothing else." 

In 1830 the new bath-houses were commenced, and 
other improvements in the town and environs were 
undertaken. In 1852 the present Cur-tax was estab- 
lished, and visitors were no longer received as formerly 
by a flourish of trumpets from the Stadtthurm. In 
1858 the 500th anniversary of the legendary discovery 
of the baths by the Emperor Charles IV. was held 
amid great rejoicing. 

Besides the distinguished visitors already mentioned 
Carlsbad has been honoured by visits from Frederick I., 
1708, and Frederick William I, of Prussia, 1732 ; the 
Emperor Joseph IT. of Austria, 1766; the Empress 
Marie Ludovika, 1 8 1 o ; King Anthony of Saxony, 1 8 1 2 ; 
the Emperor Francis I. and his daughter Maria Louisa, 
second wife of Xapoleon I., 1812 : William III., 1816 ; 
the Empress Maria Feodorowna of Russia, 1 8 1 8 ; King 
Ernest of Hanover, 1837; King Otho of Greece, 1856; 
the present German Emperor, 1 864 ; the Crown Prince 
and Princess of Prussia, 1870 ; the Emperor and Em- 
press of Brazil, 1872 ; the ex-Empress of the French, 
1883. 

Besides these royalties the Cur-books at Carlsbad are 
inscribed with the names of Bach, Beethoven, Catalani, 
Sontag, Paganini, Schopenhauer, Wellington, Prince 



46 HISTORY. 

Metternich, Kroner, Chateaubriand, Auerbach, Tour- 
genieff, Prince Bismarck, John Bright, and the late 
Lord Ampthill. 

Carlsbad has many times suffered severely from 
inundations of the Tepel, notably in May 1582, when 
three-fourths of the houses were swept away and many 
of the inhabitants drowned; in February 1655, when 
eighteen houses were destroyed; and in September 
1 82 1, when all the bridges and a great part of the wall 
along the Tepel were carried away, and the goods in the 
shops on the river-bank were almost entirely destroyed, 
the water reaching the second floor of the houses. Great 
destruction has also several times been worked by 
the breaking out of the Sprudel. On the 22d February 
1799, in consequence of the sudden breaking-up of the 
ice, the spring burst through the ground, carrying every- 
thing before it, and then almost disappeared, — in conse- 
quence of which a rumour spread that the spring had 
been swallowed up by an earthquake. This was a 
serious calamity for Carlsbad, as a total cessation of the 
drinking of the waters took place in consequence. It 
was months before the spring was replaced, it being 
necessary to level the bed of the river and pave the 
sides with massive slabs of granite, while its banks had 
to be sealed with cement. In 1604 the town was 
almost entirely distroyedby fire, only three houses being 
left standing, and again in 1759, when 224 houses were 
burned to the ground. 

A sketch of the history of Carlsbad would not be 



HISTORY. 47 

complete without reference being made to its celebrated 
K. K. Schiitzen-Corps, or Royal and Imperial Shooting 
Corps. This society is a very ancient one, having been 
orginally a company of crossbowmen. The date of the 
foundation of the society is unknown, but its first royal 
charter was granted in 1630. One of the ancient privi- 
leges of Carlsbad was that no military should be quartered 
in the town, and there being therefore no garrison, the 
shooting corps have always undertaken the duties of the 
town guard. The corps wear a handsome uniform of 
green and gold, and the visitor to Carlsbad will have 
many opportunities of seeing them marching through 
the town headed by their band. The shooting matches 
of the society have been patronised by most of the royal 
and noble visitors to Carlsbad since its foundation, who 
have written their names in the autograph-book, and 
have presented a number of prizes to be shot for. This 
book and many of the prizes are preserved in the Schiess- 
haus in the Schlitzen Park, and form a most interesting 
collection. Weekly shooting matches are still held on 
Sundays, at which visitors are made welcome, and 
allowed to take part. 



( 48 ) 



r<^ 




IV. 
LIFE AT CARLSBAD. 



AKLSBAD has now settled down, after the 



gay days of her premidre jeunesse — when her 
princely and noble visitors accompanied the 
drinking of the waters with a continual round of gaiety 
■ — to follow again the sound maxim of old Dr. Payer, 
Ci that Nature hath created this bath for patients, and 
not for anybody's lust or amusement. " When he reads 
of the open-air fStes, the balls, and the nightly illumina- 
tions given by the distinguished guests, where all were 
welcome, the visitor of to-day may naturally feel tempted 
to regret the change in the social life at Carlsbad, when 
he finds his days bound by rigid rules, and himself but 
a unit of a crowd of health-seekers who, from their very 
number and difference of station and nationality, are 
debarred from that free social intercourse which doubt- 
less most would desire if it were possible. 

There are many reasons that account for this change. 
In earlier days the guests were few in number, and were 
nearly all of the " upper classes," with some crowned 
head or star of fashion as their presiding genius. To- 



LIFE AT CARLSBAD. 



49 



day this select circle has gradually extended to a 
mingled concourse, drawn from all countries and classes 
of the civilised world, with few able to lead, and fewer 
willing to follow, in any revival of the old festivities. 
All now must feel themselves more or less strangers in 
this vast throng, and be content to devote themselves to 
the business of the hour, and to seek their enjoyment 
amid their own immediate circle, and in the happy 
consciousness of returning health. But in spite of the 
barriers to general intercourse among the visitors, there 
is withal a kindly tone in the social life at Carlsbad, 
doubtless owing greatly to the leaven of the geniality 
of the Austrian character, and there are many quiet and 
healthful pleasures, particularly suited to those who have 
come in search of health and repose. 

The cure at Carlsbad is by no means a " fancy " cure. 
It is no place for those who wish to make a visit to 
a watering-place simply in search of amusement or 
gaiety. Here there is no extravagance either in the 
mode of life or in fashionable display, The goddess of 
health reigns supreme, and all must yield to her sway. 
But after all he must be a discontented and unapprecia- 
tive mortal indeed who cannot find amusement enough 
in the pleasant summer days at Carlsbad, with its 
charming drives and walks, its promenades and cafes, 
where he can mingle with the passing throng, or can 
rest luxuriously beneath some shady chestnut tree, 
and wile away the hours in friendly intercourse, or in 
listening to the music of the orchestra ; or perchance, 

D 



50 LIFE AT CARLSBAD. 

if weary, and wishing solitude, lie can seek refuge with 
a favourite author in some sequestered nook, — returning 
health and the hope of a speedy recovery adding zest 
to every pleasure. 

" Early to bed and early to rise " is the strict rule at 
Carlsbad, and the visitor must be prepared for the — 
perhaps at first unwelcome — rap at half-past five ; but 
when once up and dressed, what can be more delightful 
than the first fresh cool hours of the summer mornings 
and the first singing of the birds, which are so carefully 
looked after by the kindly peasantry for the welcome of 
the guests ? At six the visitor seeks the health-restoring 
springs, and takes his morning goblet from the hands 
of the neatly dressed little maid who presides over the 
fountain ; and here let us advise him to be early at the 
well, and so save himself many tedious waits in the 
slowly advancing line of two or three hundred other 
patients, which have to be repeated for as many glasses 
as he is ordered to drink. This trouble can be avoided, 
however, by hiring a 'dienstmann' (see page 8 1) for 
20 kr., who will stand in the line and hand the cup to the 
visitor when his turn comes. After drinking, a promenade 
is taken, enlivened by the strains of the band and the 
curious sight of a long line of people, of many climes 
and many costumes, solemnly waiting their turn, cup 
in hand, at the spring. After each cup another walk 
is taken, until the prescribed quantity has been taken. 
Then to breakfast ; — and now, to the newly arrived 
English or American visitor, comes the rub. Accus- 



LIFE AT CARLSBAD. 5 I 

tomed at home to his substantial morning meal, it does 
seem hard at first, after a good hours exercise in the 
fresh morning air, to have to content himself with a cup 
of coffee and a roll purchased at the nearest bakery. He 
is not even allowed butter, unless he happens to have 
an indulgent doctor, who will allow him just enough to 
remind him of his boarding-school days. But there is 
no help for it ; he has come for the " cure," and must 
abide by its rules. One solace, however, is left him, 
few doctors being so hard-hearted as to deny just one 
pipe or cigar. The rest of the morning is spent at 
the Ourhaus perusing the newspapers, with which the 
reading rooms are plentifully supplied, or in a short 
drive or gentle stroll, until the bathing^hour comes 
round ; after which the visitor returns to his hotel re- 
freshed and invigorated with the bracing mineral or 
luxurious peat bath. The dinner-hour at Carlsbad is 
primitive, but to the hungry visitor who has gone 
through a long morning on a roll and a cup of coffee, it 
is welcome enough. The dinner of the Cur-guest, how- 
ever, must be simple and in keeping with his Arcadian 
life; but, with soup, fish, a roast joint, green vegetables, 
stewed fruit, and the sauce piquante of a healthy appe- 
tite, he has little ground for complaint. Nor is he ob- 
liged to join the Army of the Blue Ribbon ; in modera- 
tion he can take claret, hock, light German beer, or 
better still, and most refreshing, the country wines of 
Bohemia, diluted with sparkling Giesshubl or Kron- 
dorfer water. Dinner over, another walk is taken, for 



$2 LIFE AT CARLSBAD. 

even "forty winks/' however tempting in the drowsy 
summer weather, are strictly forbidden. And so passes 
the day, till the sun begins to drop behind the wooded hills, 
when all Carlsbad turns out at its gayest to promenade, 
to see and be seen, or to sit at the little tables under the 
trees and drink the most aromatic coffee in the world, 
so cheerfully served by the young and pretty coffee-girls. 
At the cafes or in the Curgarten Labitzky's band dis- 
courses sweet music from four to six, and on the Alte 
Wiese and the Pupp'sche Allee there is a constant ebb 
and flow of promenaders, amongst whom the lively and 
exquisitely dressed daughters of Austria and Hungary, 
we must unpatriotically say, bear away the palm for style 
and beauty. The concert ended, the visitors soon dis- 
perse ; and a light supper taken, the fine new theatre 
or the evening concerts at the Curhaus are now the 
attractions, or if it be a Saturday — the fete-day of the 
week, on which visitors, like children of a larger 
growth, are allowed to " stay up " — the ballroom at the 
Curhaus is opened, and from eight till twelve, to the 
strains of Labitzky's band, dancing goes on with the 
full consent of even our tyrant the Cur physician. 
These are no formal gatherings; the " swallow-tail" 
of civilisation finds no place in the simple life at 
Carlsbad, and ladies are expressly requested to appear 
in " toilette de mile ; " but, nevertheless, these dances 
are most enjoyable from their very freedom from re- 
straint and ceremony. On other evenings Carlsbad is 
in bed by ten, for early to rise means early to rest.. 



( 53 ) 




V. 



ARRIVAL— HOTELS— LODGINGS— CAFES AND 
BEST SHOPS. 

fN crossing the Austrian frontier the luggage of 
travellers is examined by the Customs; but 
tobacco and spirits, and uncut pieces of silk 
or velvet are practically the only articles on which duty 
is levied. The Custom-House officers are extremely 
civil, but to avoid all chance of trouble the traveller 
should declare at once any dutiable articles he may 
have in his luggage. 

Passports are not now required in Austria. It is 
nevertheless advisable to carry one as a means of per- 
sonal identification. 

On arrival at the station the traveller will find 
carriages and omnibuses from the hotels in waiting. 
If he has chosen his hotel he should seek out the hotel 
porter, who will look after his luggage and see him 
comfortably settled in his carriage or omnibus. The 
traveller should try and so arrange his journey as to 
arrive at Carlsbad early in the evening, when, if he 
have not secured apartments beforehand, he should 
proceed to a hotel for the night, and next day look for 



5 4 ARRIVAL HOTELS LODGINGS. 

lodgings at his leisure. The choice of lodgings, how- 
ever, being a matter of great importance, it is better, 
in the height of the season, to secure them if possible 
beforehand. The doctor to whom the visitor is recom- 
mended will willingly render all assistance in his power 
on receiving particulars of the case, the accommodation 
required, and the expected date of arrival, and his 
advice as to the most desirable locality suited to the 
patient will be found most valuable. The prices of 
rooms, of course, depend very much on the situation 
and the period of the year at which they are taken. 
Apartments in the Alte Wiese, Park Strasse, Neue 
Wiese, or on the heights of the Schlossberg are much 
dearer than those in the Prager Gasse, the Kreutz 
Gasse, or the Eger Strasse. Between the 15th May 
and 1 5th July the prices are twice as much as during 
the rest of the year. During the height of the season 
single bedrooms can be had from 10 to 20 fl. per 
week, a suite of two to four rooms between 20 and 50 
fl. a week, and large suites from 100 to 200 fl. a week. 

The hotels in Carlsbad are exceedingly comfortable, 
and the prices compare favourably with those of other 
fashionable watering-places. The rooms are generally 
large, airy, and well furnished, and the cooking is good. 
The average prices in hotels of the first class are — 
from April to May, salon and bedroom, 15 to 30 fl. 
per week; single bedrooms, 8 to 12 fl., and per day 
about 2 fl. From June to July, salon and bedroom , 
30 to 60 fl. per week; single bedroom, 12 to 20 fl.. 



ARRIVAL HOTELS LODGINGS. 5 5 

and per day, 3 fls. During August and September the 
prices are the same as in April and May. The price 
for rooms include service only. Gaslights and candles 
are about 25 kr. each, lamps 35 kr. per day, fires 50 
kr. per day. The charge for service does not in- 
clude the porter or boots. Visitors should always 
make a definite arrangement with the proprietor before 
taking rooms. 

The Carlsbad hotels do not furnish table cVhdtc, as 
nearly all the visitors are on a special regimen. The 
meals taken by visitors generally consist of coffee and 
bread in the morning, generally taken at a cafe, dinner 
in the middle of the day, and a light supper in the 
evening. The average prices charged for meals at the 
hotels are about as follows : — Coffee with bread, half 
portion, 36 kr. ; whole portion, 60 kr. ; eggs, 6 kr. each. 
Dinner is charged at a fixed price of about 1 fl. 50 kr. 
to 4 fl., according to the number of dishes ordered. 

Soup, beef or mutton, vegetables, a roast dish, and 
compot and pudding, 1 guld. 50 kr. 

Same as above, with fish, 2 fl. 

With fish, ice, and dessert, 3 fl. 

With fish, an additional roast dish, entree, ice, and 
dessert, 4 fl. 

Supper is order a la carte, a> portion of fish or meat 
costing from 50 to 80 kr. One portion, as in France, 
can be shared by two. 

The second-class hotels are generally about 20 per 
cent, cheaper, although in some cases they ar£ just as 



5 6 AKRIVAL HOTELS LODGINGS. 

dear as the first class, and should vistors intend to stay 
in any of them a bargain should be made beforehand. 

Hotels of the first class are — Anger's Hotel, Neue 
Wiese, adjoining the new theatre ; Pupps 9 Hotel, 
Pupp'sche Allee ; Konigs Villa, Theresien Park ; Gold- 
ener Schild, with ddpendances, Erzherzog Stephan and 
Zwei Deutsche Monarches; Hotel Hanover, Markt ; Hotel 
National, Neue Gartenzeile ; Hotel de Bussie, Kaiser- 
strasse. 

Hotels of the second class are : — Donau, Parkstrasse ; 
Paradies, Kaiserstrasse ; Drei Fasanen, Kirchengasse ; 
Erzherzog Karl, Kirchengasse. 

All the hotels have restaurants attached. 

Caf^s. — Pupps', on the Alte Wiese (page 109), Cafe 
Schonbrunn (page 123), Kaiser Park (page 114), Sans 
Souci (page in), Post Ilof (page 113), Freundschafts- 
Salle (page 113), Cafi Saxe, Cafd Zum Elephant, on the 
Alte Wiese — English and French newspapers ; Cafe 
Imperial, north of the town on the right bank — electric 
light, concerts. 

Coffee at the cafes, 28 kr. ; rolls, 2 kr. each. When 
black coffee is desired the order is given for i Recht 
cafe/ and for weaker coffee, 6 Verkehrt.' At all the 
cafes two cups can be ordered with one portion. If 
only one cup is wanted, the order is for a c Kleinen 
Kapuziner,' for which 16 kr. is charged. The usual 
custom is to buy the rolls at a baker's, the best being 
Mannl & Pittroff, in the Alte Wiese, and take them to 
the cafe. 



ARRIVAL HOTELS LODGINGS. 5 7 

The servants at the hotels and lodging-houses, and 
the attendants at the cafes all expect gratuities. Those 
given at the hotels and lodgings must of course depend 
on the length of the visit and the attention shown. At 
the cafes and restaurants the usual fees are — for coffee, 
10 kr. ; dinner, 20 kr. to the head waiter, to whom the 
bill is paid, and 10 kr. to the waiter ; supper the same. 
At the baths the girl who supplies the linen expects 
about 20 kr., and the male attendant 10 kr. The 
drivers of the carriages expect a fee of 5 to 10 per 
cent, on the fare. 

Eecommendable Shops. 

Antiquities and Curiosities — C. J. Meyer, Alte Wiese. 
Bohemian Glass — L. Moser, "Bother Adler," Alte 

Wiese ; Holzner, Bahnhof-Str. ; A. H. Pfeiffer, 

42 Alte Wiese. 
Booksellers — Franieck, " DreiLammer," Markt; Knauer, 

Markt ; Feller, Markt ; Stark, Mlihlbadgasse. 
Cartridges — Bosenfeld, " Weisser Lowe," Markt. 
Chemists — F. Worliczek, Markt, 381 ; H. B . Lipp- 

mann, 17 Mlihlbadgasse. 
Cigars and Cigarettes — David Moser, Markt; Frank, 

Sprudelgasse. 
Confectioners — W. Stadler, " Konig von Preussen," 

Mlihlbadgasse; Burnler, Alte Wiese; Bar, Alte 

Wiese. 
Express, Parcels, and Baggage — Ulrich & Gross, Kaiser- 

Str. ; Bartels, Kaiser-Str. 



5 8 ARRIVAL HOTEL LODGINGS. 

Grocer — Rosenfeld, Sprudelgasse. 

Hairdressers and Perfumers — Jelineck & Erdmann, 

Alte Wiese. 
Hatter — Karl Gimm, Mlihlbadgasse. 
Medical Instruments and Bandages — W. Rusy, Alte 

Wiese ; Berry, Neue Wiese. 
Milliners — B. Hein, " Mozart," Alte Wiese; Briider 

Nastopil. Alte Wiese, 335. 
Opticians — Briider Teiner, " Goldener Harfe," Alte 

Wiese. 
Photographers — Jerie, Am Quai ; Hirsch, Garten Zeil ; 

Wagner, Marienbad-Str. 
Pianos (also for hire) — Anton Wiesinger, Hotel Na- 
tional. 
Shoemaker — Mannl-Hein, " Goldener Schliissel," Miihl- 

badgasse. 
Sprudelstein Articles — J. Sebert, Alte Wiese ; Tscham- 

merholl, Sprudel Colonnade. 
Tailors — B. Epstein, " Drei Lammer," Markt ; Max 

Epstein, Wittwe, Markt. 

Bankers — 
Gottlieb Lederer, Markt ; Briider Benedict, Alte Wiese 

and Miiklbadgasse ; A. Schwalb, Markt ; Boh- 

mirche Escompte, Bank Filiall, Miihlbadgasse. 



( 59 ) 



VI. 



CONCERTS, THEATRES, AND AMUSEMENTS. 

T^^JARLSBAD has a fine theatre, opened 1886 
(see p. 90), in which excellent performances 
of German, French, and Italian plays and 

operas are given. The box-office is open from 9 till 1 2. 

Doors open at 6 p.m. ; performance commences at 7. 



Theatre Prices. 
1. In the Parterre. 

Proscenium boxes for six persons . 
Parterre boxes for four persons 
Parquet seats (stalls), first three rows . 

,, „ fourth to eighth rows 

Balcony stalls, first row 
,, „ second row . 

„ ,, third and fourth rows 

First floor boxes — mittelfremdenloge 
First row, four fauteuils 
Second row, four fauteuils . 
First row boxes, for five persons . 



a 


kr. 


. 12 


O 


• 7 


O 


2 


O 


1 


So 


2 


O 


1 


So 


1 


20 


2 


20 


1 


60 


. 8 






6o 



CONCERTS, THEATRES, AND AMUSEMENTS. 



2. In the Balcony. 

Middle balcony seat, first row 

„ „ second to sixth rows 

Side balcony seats, first row 

,, „ second and third rows 

Amphitheatre ..... 
„ area .... 



fl. 


kr. 


I 


20 


I 


O 


I 


IO 


. o 


70 


o 


So 


. o 


20 



Concerts. — From 1st May to 30th September in 
the Curhans, on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 
in unfavourable weather from 7.30 to 9 P.M. When 
the weather is fine the band plays on these evenings 
— Monday, at the Cafi Sans-Souci ; Wednesday, at the 
Salle de Saxe ; Friday, in the Stadtparh ; also in the 
Sladtpark, Sundays from 4 to 6 p.m. ; in the garden 
of the Cafi Pitpp, Tuesdays and Thursdays, from 4 
to 6 P.M. ; and in rainy weather in the salon of the 
cafe. The orchestra plays during the drinking hours 
from 6 to 8 a.m. in the morning daily in the Sprudel 
and Muhlbrunn Colonnades. Military and classical 
concerts are also given in the Cafes Posthof, Schon- 
brttnn, Sans-Souci, and Salle de Saxe — admission, 50 
krs. From the 1st October to 30th April concerts 
are given in the Curhaus on Tuesday, Friday, and 
Thursday evenings from 7 to 8.30 p.m., and every 
alternate Sunday, from 4 to 6 p.m. in the afternoon. 
The days given above for concerts are liable to altera- 
tion. 



CONCERTS, THEATRES, AND AMUSEMENTS. 6 I 

Balls are given every Saturday evening at the 
Curhaus from 8 to 1 2 P.M.; admission, I fl. 50 kr. 
The finest ball of the year is held on the 1 8th of 
August, in honour of the birthday of the Austrian 
Emperor. 

In the Summer Theatre performances of comedy, 
vaudeville, farce, &c, are given in the afternoon from 
four to six. 

During the season numerous strolling companies 
of actors, gymnasts, musicians, conjurors, &c, visit 
Carlsbad. 

For shooting and fishing see p. 163. 



( 62 ) 




VII. 
TOWN EEGULATIONS. 

Cure and Music Tax. 

^LL visitors to Carlsbad who remain over eight 
pW days, whether taking the cure or not, are 
subject to the cure and music taxes, which 
are divided into four classes. 

Cure- Tax. 

1st Class. — Which embraces noblemen, officers, 
Government employees, the superior priesthood, land- 
owners, independent gentry, professional men, mer- 
chants, bankers, manufacturers, and well-to-do people 
generally . . . . . . I o fl. 

2d Class. — People of moderate means . 6 „ 

3d Class. — The working classes, small shop- 
keepers, and people of small means . 4 „ 

4th Class. — Children under fourteen and 
servants . . . . . . 1 „ 

Doctors and surgeons, military officers under the 
rank of captain, and their wives, widows and children, 
are exempt from the cure-tax, but pay a reduced music- 
tax. 



TOWN REGULATIONS. 



63 



Music- Tax. 

1st Class. — One person 

„ A party of 2 persons 

33 5) 3 33 

33 33 4 33 

33 3? 5 33 

2d Class. — One person 

„ A party of 2 persons 



or more 



33 



3? 
33 
33 



3 

4 



33 33 J 33 

3d Class. — One person 

A party of 2 persons 



33 



33 
33 



3> 
33 
33 



3 
4 

5 



33 
33 

33 



or more 



or more 



fl. 

5 

8 

1 1 

14 

17 

3 

5 

6 

7 
8 
2 
3 
4 
5 
6 



Children under fourteen and servants pay no music- 
tax. 

The " cure-tax " does not include admission to the 
reading and smoking rooms. Tickets for these rooms 
can be purchased at the office. Daily tickets, 15 kr. ; 
weekly, 70 kr. ; monthly, 2 fl. 

The taxes are assessed by the Burgomaster, but any 
visitor objecting to his assessment can appeal against 
it within three days, by lodging a notice in writing 
at either the office of the Burgomaster, in the Town 
Hall, or at the office of the District Surveyor in the 
Municipal Buildings on the Neue Wiese. Shortly 



64 ' TOWN REGULATIONS. 

after his arrival each visitor is supplied with a form of 
assessment to fill up, which is returned a few days 
afterwards for payment. A List of Eegulations is 
issued annually by the Burgomaster and circulated 
among the visitors. 



"to 



Eegulations Respecting Lodgings. 

i. Any stranger arriving in Carlsbad is permitted 
to hire a lodging either for a fixed or for an indefinite 
period of time. With respect to rent, and all other 
arrangements entered into, written or verbal contracts 
are considered equally binding. To save disputes, 
however, it is better to have a contract in writing. 
(See Rule I 3.) 

2. If the lodging is hired for a fixed period, the 
contract made is considered in force during the whole 
of the time the rooms are occupied ; and when the 
period originally fixed on has expired, and the stay is 
prolonged, no further contract is necessary, unless an 
alteration in the terms be agreed on, in which case a 
new contract must be made. 

3. The fact of the rent being paid weekly (as is 
usual) has no bearing upon the contract, i.e., a week's 
notice on either side is not sufficient when the apart- 
ments have been hired by the month. 

4. During the continuance of a contract for a fixed 
period, the owner of the lodgings cannot increase the 
rent. 

5. If the lodgings be rented for an indefinite 



TOWN REGULATIONS. 65 

period, and no special contract have been made, it is 
assumed that the visitor has hired the apartments for 
the usual time of taking the waters, viz., four weeks ; 
but during this time the landlord cannot insist on any 
increase in the rent originally agreed on. In this 
case, if the hirer wishes to vacate the apartments at 
the end of the fourth week, or if the landlord wishes 
to let them to some other person, a week's notice be- 
forehand is necessary. Should this not be given, the 
contract runs on for an indefinite period, and can be 
put an end to at any time by either party giving a 
week's notice. 

6. If apartments are expressly rented by the day, it 
is only necessary to give a notice of twenty-four hours 
on either side ; or, if by the week, a week's notice. 

7. The week's notice is reckoned from the day on 
which the weekly payment becomes due. If notice be 
given during the course of the week, it is only regarded 
as having been given at the expiration of the week. 

8. If, in the case of a lodging which is hired either 
by the week or for an indefinite period, the lodger 
gives notice to leave at any time during the first day 
he takes possession, he cannot be required to pay more 
than the rent for the current week. 

9. If the visitor who has hired his apartments 
either by the week or for an indefinite period desires 
to quit his lodgings suddenly, he has not only to pay 
the rent for the current week, but also the amount of 
an additional week's rent as compensation in lieu of 

E 



66 TOWN REGULATIONS. 

notice ; but at the same time, he cannot sublet the 
apartments for this unexpired period to any other 
person. In the case of lodgings being hired by the day, 
the compensation in lieu of notice is one day's rent. 

10. All persons letting lodgings have a right to 
demand a deposit from the hirer, which, however, must 
not exceed the amount of one week's rent. The de- 
posit is forfeited if the hirer shall not take possession 
of the lodging during the course of the first week. 
This rule does not apply if the hirer furnishes the 
owner with sufficient security for his fulfilling the 
terms of his contract. Should such security not be 
furnished, the landlord has the right, at the termina- 
tion of the week, to cancel the contract and let the 
lodgings to any other person. 

1 1 . In hotels and boarding-houses, visitors have the 
right to vacate their apartments at any time they 
please, and only to pay by the day. Should, however, 
a visitor hire apartments in a hotel or boarding-house 
for a fixed price, and for a period longer than one day 
(whether it be for a fixed or indefinite period), the above 
regulations applicable to lodging-houses come into force. 

12. If the stipulations of the contract are not kept 
by the landlord — that is, if the visitor shall not be 
provided with that which is contracted for, or what 
may be said to come under the head of necessities ; if 
it can be proved that the lodging is damp, dirty, or in 
any way injurious to health ; or if facts come to light 
which the hirer had no means of discovering at the 



TOWN REGULATIONS. 6 J 

time of his entering into the contract, whereby he may 
be inconvenienced ; and provided such causes of com- 
plaint are not immediately removed by the landlord, 
the lodger shall have the right of vacating the apart- 
ments without notice ; but he must pay for the actual 
time he has occupied the apartments. 

13. In such cases the onus of proof lies upon the 
lodger ; and also if any dispute arises as to whether 
the lodging was hired for a fixed or an indefinite 
period, the onus of proof lies with the person who 
raises the dispute. If no written contract has been 
made between the parties, and a dispute takes place 
regarding a verbal contract, the arrival-sheet, which 
contains a column stating the period for which the 
visitor proposes to stay, shall be taken as proof. In 
cases where this is not recorded in the arrival-sheet, the 
assertion of the visitor is taken as proof. 

14. In the case of furnished lodgings, no compensa- 
tion can be claimed for injury or deterioration sustained 
by the furniture, linen, &c, by ordinary wear and tear, 
but compensation can be claimed where anything has 
been wilfully broken or damaged, and in cases of 
severe or prolonged illness, where any large amount of 
bed-linen is required, or when from this cause any 
articles have been rendered unfit for further use. 

1 5 . Every visitor has the right to procure his 
meals, food, and necessaries, as well as to take his 
baths, where he pleases. He has also the right of 
having his own laundress. 



68 TOWN REGULATIONS. 

1 6. The rent does not usually include attendance, 
unless it lias been expressly stipulated in the contract. 
Where no arrangement shall have been made for at- 
tendance, it shall be determined according to the tariff 
usual in the house. When attendance is charged in 
the usual monthly or weekly account, and shall have 
been thus paid to the landlord by the lodger, the ser- 
vants have no claim to separate gratuities. 

The term " attendance" is understood to mean usual 
domestic services, such as the cleaning and putting in 
order of the rooms, attending at meals, and other ser- 
vices usually rendered by domestics ; but ironing of 
linen, washing, mending, and cleaning of clothes and 
boots, or attending upon the sick are expressly ex- 
cluded. 

17. All disputes arising between visitors and lodg- 
ing-house keepers must be laid before the Eoyal Dis- 
trict Assessor, at the Amtsgebaude, or district offices, 
"Neue Wiese, who will use his best endeavours to arrange 

the matters in dispute satisfactorily ; but, failing this, 
he shall then direct the parties to apply to the law 
courts. When, however, both parties shall agree that 
the District Assessor shall be called upon to arbitrate 
the matter, his decision shall be final. 

Bath Regulations. 

1 . The public baths of the town are under the direct 
control of the municipality of Carlsbad, subject to the 
general supervision of the Government. 



TOWN REGULATIONS. 69 

2. When baths are ordered, they will be allotted by 
the cashier according to priority of application. 

3. The baths are open to the public from morning 
till evening. 

4. Tickets for a bath, or for a series of baths, are 
issued in the establishment by the cashier or the bath 
attendants at the prices fixed by the tariff. Only 
tickets obtained in this way are available. The tickets 
must be paid for in advance. 

5. The ticket is only available at the establishment 
where it is bought and for the hour arranged. 

6. In case the patient cannot take the bath at the 
hour arranged for, at least two hours' notice must be 
given in advance, otherwise the price of the ticket will 
not be refunded. 

7. The ticket must be delivered to the attendant on 
entering the bath-room. 

8. Bathers must be punctual to the hours mentioned 
on the ticket, the time allowed being one hour for each 
bath. A bell is rung fifteen minutes before the expira- 
tion of the hour to give the bather warning to dress 
and vacate the bath-room. 

9. Every bather has the right to request that his 
bath shall be prepared in his presence; and in order 
to assure himself that the temperature of the bath is 
exactly that desired, a thermometer is placed in each 
bath-room. 

10. The bath attendants must obey strictly all orders 



70 TOWN REGULATIONS. 

given for the preparation of the baths, and must treat 
bathers with proper civility. 

11. The bath attendants are strictly enjoined to keep 
the bath-rooms clean and in order ; and bathers are 
also urgently requested not to damage or soil the bath- 
rooms in any way. 

12. Smoking and the use of strong- smelling liniments 
are strictly forbidden. 

13. A bell will be found in each cabinet, which can 
be rung in case of necessity. 

14. The bath inspectors and attendants are strictly 
forbidden to interfere with the comfort of the bathers. 

15. Any disorder in the bath-rooms, negligence, or 
incivility on the part of the bath attendants, or other 
cause of complaint, must be written in the complaint 
book, which will be found in the waiting-room, and 
which duly comes under the notice of the municipality. 

16 It is strictly forbidden to bring dogs into the Cur- 
haus or bath-rooms. 

17 The use of the common baths is given free to the 
poor, who, however, must produce a legal certificate of 
their inability to pay. 



Bath Tariff. 



fl. kr. 



One mineral salon bath in the Curhaus, morning 

or evening, with service . . . 1 50 

One mineral bath in the Curhaus or in the other 

bath-houses, after 2 p.m., with service . I o 

One mineral bath in do. before 2 P.M., with service o 70 



TOWN REGULATIONS. 



71 



One mineral douche bath, with service 
One Kussian steam bath and cold douche, with- 
out service 

One cold douche bath, without service 

One peat bath, including a bath of fresh water 

afterwards, as follows : — 
With 48 kilogrammes of peat . 
„ 60 „ „ 

5? /2 jj 3J • 

5? 8 4 » 5? ... 

?) 9^ 55 5) • 

One salon peat bath in the new Curhaus bath 
One iron bath ..... 

One bath at the Sauerbrunnen 
One fresh-water bath, with service 
Each person in the public bath 
Heating the bath-room with woodfire 

Use of Bath Linen. 
Each bath-gown ..... 

Each bath-sheet . 

Each towel ...... 

Where a salon bath is taken, the price of bath 
linen is double these rates. 

In the Curhaus only peat baths can be had. 
With 6 kilogrammes of earth . 

„ 12 ,, ,, 

Bran in addition, each 3 kilos. . 



fl. 


kr. 


. I 


So 


. I 


O 


. 
r 


60 


. 2 


O 


. 2 


30 


. 2 


60 


. 2 


80 


• 3 


O 


• 3 


O 


. 1 


O 


1 


O 


1 


° 


. 


5 


. 


20 


. 


20 


. 


10 


. 


4 



o 24 
o 48 
o 50 



72 



TOWN REGULATIONS. 



fl. kr. 

Carlsbad Sprudel soap-lye, per litre . . . o 20 
Carlsbad Sprudel-lye salt, per kilo. . . .10 
With Sprudel soap in addition ... . . O 70 
Sea-salt, 2 to 5 kilos., per kilo. . . . . o 40 
Common- salt, 2 to 5 kilos., per kilo. . . . O 20 
In every bath-house there is a complaint book. 

Eegulations for Public Carriages. 

1. The hirer is at liberty to select any vehicle he 
may choose, without regard to its position upon the 
rank. 

2. Where the carriage is hired by the hour, the fare 
commences from the time of engaging the carriage. 
Where the fare is paid by distance, a delay of ten 
minutes is allowed; beyond this time, for each half- 
hours waiting, for a one-horse carriage, 40 kr. ; two- 
horse carriage, 60 kr. For a longer time, in which a 
wait of three hours is included, for each half-hours 
delay beyond this time, one-horse carriage, 20 kr. ; 
two-horse carriage, 30 kr. 

3. From 9 P.M. to 6 a.m. half-fare additional is 
charged. If the carriage is hired by the hour, during 
the day, and is kept beyond 9 P.M., half-fare additional 
is to be paid for the time after that hour. 

4. No charge is made for small articles taken inside 
the carriage. For luggage carried outside a one-horse 
carriage, not exceeding ii cwt., 30 kr., and on a two- 
horse carriage, not exceeding 2 cwt., 50 kr. 



TOWN REGULATIONS. 73 

5. Should the carriage, after being hired, be counter- 
manded by the hirer, a compensation of one florin for a 
one-horse carriage, and 1 fl. 50 krs. for a two-horse 
carriage must be paid, unless the delay, if reckoned 
by time, entitle the driver to more. 

6. The driver of a carriage can in no case decline to 
take a fare, unless he can show it to be impossible to 
undertake it. 

7. If the drive be interrupted by any accident to 
either the driver or his vehicle, he has no claim what- 
ever on the hirer. 

8. If the driver of a public vehicle have accepted an 
engagement, he shall make it known by laying his whip 
down on his seat. 

9. The driver is bound to supply the hirer with the 
same carriage as he had in use when hired ; and, unless 
by the express consent of the hirer, he cannot transfer 
the contract to any other driver. 

10. Public carriages are required, when conveying a 
fare, to proceed at a trot whenever the ground will 
permit. 

1 1 . The driver is bound, whenever he is hired by 
time, to show the hirer his watch and to call attention 
to it ; should he fail to do this, the time, as computed 
by the hirer, will be assumed to be correct without 
further question. 

12. One-horse carriages are .bound to be capable of 
holding three persons, and two-horse carriages five 
persons. 



74 TOWN REGULATIONS. 

13. The driver is not permitted, unless with the 
express consent of the hirer, to convey any other 
person either in the carriage or on the box. 

14. Each carriage is bound to have hung in the 
carriage a fahr-billeten block ; on the front of the leaves 
of this block a tariff of fares must be printed. The 
back of the leaf may be used by the passenger for 
making any complaint, which should be sent to the 
Burgomaster at Carlsbad, either by being at once handed 
to a policeman or sent through the post. 

Fares. 

Fares to any place not mentioned in this list are left 
to be a matter of private arrangement between the 
driver and hirer. 

By Time. 

I. For driving within the precincts of Carlsbad 
(bounded by the Egerbriicke, Salzsudhaus, Biirgerver- 
sorgungshaus, along the main road to the Reichsadler, 
Helenenhof, Bellaria, English Church, and by the Park- 
strasse and the Alte Bahnhofstrasse) — 

Two- horse carriage for the first \ hour . 

„ „ „ every subsequent \ hour 

One-horse carriage for the first \ hour . 

„ „ „ beyond \ and less than \ 

hour . . . . . . . O 80 

„ „ „ for every subsequent \ 

hour . . . . . . . o 20 



fl. 


kr. 


I 


20 





60 





50 



TOWN REGULATIONS. 



75 



By Distance. 



I 



II. From any point within the precincts 
of the town for the drive — 

To Sans-Souci (Karlsbrticke) Schon- 
brunn, Post-hot", Hospital, Swimming- 
bath, Klein- Versailles 

To Jagerhaus, Donitzer "Waterworks, 
Drahowitz, Cemetery, Freundschafts- 
saal, Kaiserpark .... 

To Restaurant Leibold at Pirkenham- 
mer 

To Aberg, Leonhard, Bergwirthshaus, 
Zettlitz. Schwarzenbergbriieke, Aich, 
Dallwitz, Fischern, Pirkenhammer 
(including the factories) . 
III. From any point within the precincts of 
the town, including a stay of three 
hours and return drive — 

To Altrohlau .... 

To Schlackenwerth, Lichtenstadt, Tup 
pelsgriin, Engelhaus 

To Elbogen, Giesshubl-Puchstein, Giess 
hubler Porcelain "Works . 

To Petschau, Buchau . 

To Joachims thai .... 

To Hauen stein, Welchau 

To Schlackenwerth and back through \ 
Lichtenstadt ..... 

Through Fischern, Altrohlau, Tiippels- 
griin and Edersgriin to Lichtenstadt 
and back 

To Elbogen and back through Schlag- 
genwald and Pirkenhammer . 

To Elbogen, fetching the passengers 
from Hans Heilings Warteplatz and 
back through Aich or Hammer 

To Giesshubl-Puchstein and back along 
the Schlackenwerther Chau^see . / 

To Giesshubl and back along the 
Schlackenwerther Chaussee but al- 
lowing time to see Schlackenwerth . 



Two-horse 
Carriage. 


Oi e-horse \ 
Carriage, j 


fl. kr. 


fl. kr. 


I O 


O 70 


I 50 


I O 


2 50 


I 50 


3 


2 O 



9 
10 
12 



9 



10 



o 

5o 

o 
o 
o 
o 



7 6 TOWN REGULATIONS. 

IV. From the Railway Station. 

1. To any point within the town or vice versa — 

fl. kr. 

Two-horse carriage . . . . .20 

One-horse ,, . . . . 1 20 

2. To any of the places mentioned above in 

§§ II. or III. or vice versa — 

(a) For all places on the right bank of the 
Eger, in addition to the regular fare as 
above mentioned — 

Two-horse carriage . . . . 1 20 

One-horse „ . . . . . o 60 

(b) For all places on the left bank of Eger, 
deduct from the regular fare as above 
mentioned — 

Two-horse carriage . . . \ . 1 20 

One-horse ,, . . . . o 60 

Stands. 

For two-horse vehicles : Theaterplatz and Kaiserstrasse. 
For one-horse vehicles : Marktplatz, Geweihdiggasse, 

Sprudelgasse, Lower Kaiserstrasse and Parkstrasse, 

behind the military baths. 

Kegulations for Hiring Donkeys and Donkey- 
Carriages. 

The office where orders are taken is in the Stadthaus, 
in the Miihlbadgasse (first floor, Stadtkassa). 



fl. 


kr. 


4 


50 


4 


O 


3 


O 



TOWN REGULATIONS. J J 

Fares. 

For the whole day ...... 

For the whole day, if hired for one week or 
more ...... 

For half a day ...... 

During the forenoon : for a ride or drive to the 
Kreuzberg, the Hirschensprung, or any 
other place at a similar distance . 1 50 

During the forenoon : for a ride or drive, on 

level ground, per hour . . . . o 80 

Drive to the springs or baths within the 
town, including the Eisen- and Sauer- 
brunn baths, with or without return drive O 80 
The drivers are not entitled to ask for any douceur, 
as they are employed by the town. 

For any ride or drive commenced in the forenoon, but 
not completed until after I P.M., the fare for the day has 
to be paid. 

The fares for conveyance to the baths are only in 
force until 1 o'clock p.m. ; after which time half a day 
must be paid for. 

If any other object than a mere visit to the baths be 
combined with a ride or drive thither, the fare according 
to time comes at once into force. 

In ordering donkeys the following regulations must 
be observed : — 

Only such orders as are lodged at the above office will 
be attended to. 



73 



TOWN REGULATIONS. 



Owing to the distance of the stables from the office, 
it is requested that orders may be given at least half an 
hour before the animal is required. 

More than one grown-up person or two children under 
the age of twelve years are not allowed to sit in the 
carriage. A contravention of this rule will involve the 
driver in punishment. He is also not permitted to 
make his donkey go faster than a walking pace. 

Payment must be made in advance, and the hirer will 
be provided with a ticket, which is only available on the 
day of issue. Afternoon excursions can only be coun- 
termanded up to 12 o'clock noon. 

It is requested that any improper behaviour on the 
part of the driver may be at once reported to the town 
officials in the above-named office. 

Omnibuses. 



To the station from the Becher Platz, opposite the 
Hotel Goldener Schild, every hour before the departure 
of the trains. Fare, 40 kr. ; each piece of luggage, 10 kr. 

To Leibold's Restaurant and Pirkenhammer from the 
Theater Platz, Neuewiese, 1st May to 30th Septem- 
ber : — 



From Carlsbad 


Arrive at Leibold's 


Arrive at 


Theater- Platz : 


Restaurant : 


Pirkenhammer 


1.30 P.M. 


2 P.M. 


2.IO P.M. 


2 


2.30 „ 


2.40 „ 


3 


3-3o » 


340 11 


3-30 „ 


A 

4 » 


4.IO „ 



TOWN REGULATIONS. jg 



Ketarn from 


Pirkenhammer to the 


Leibold Restaurant to 


Leibold Eestaurant. : 


Carlsbad : 


2.IO P.M. 


5.30 P.M. 


2.40 „ 


6 „ 


340 „ 


6.30 „ 


4.10 „ 


7 


5.10 „ 




Fare, 


4.0 kr. 



Omnibuses also run to ErVs Restaurant, Habsburg, 
and Pirkenhammer, starting from the Goldener Thurm, 
Sprudelgasse — 

Leaving Carlsbad at 9.30 a.m. and 1.30 and 3 p.m. 

Returning at 12.15, 2.15, 4.30, and 6 P.M. 
Single fare, 40 kr. 

To Aich, from 1st May to 30th September, from the 
Theatre Platz— 

Leaving Carlsbad at 1.30 and 3.30 p.m. 

Returning at 5.30 and 7 P.M. 

Single fare, 40 kr. 

To Dallwitz, from 1st May to 30th September, from 
the Dienstmann Institut, on the Becher Platz — 

Leaving Carlsbad at 1.30 and 3.30 P.M. 

Returning at 5 and 7 P.M. 

Single fare, 60 kr. Return fare, I fl. 

To Giesshubl Puchstein, from 1st May to 30th Septem- 
ber, starting from the omnibus office on the Becher 
Platz— 

Leaving Carlsbad at 1 1 a.m. and 1 p.m. 

Returning at 6 P.M. 

Return fare, 1 fl. 50 kr. 



8o 



TOWN REGULATIONS. 



To Petschau, from the Post-Office, 12.30 P.M.; re- 
turn, 6.30 P.M. Fare, I florin. 

To Neudeck, from the Post-Office, 6.30 and 11.30 
a.m. ; return, 6 A.M. and 3 P.M. Two hours. Fare, 90 
kreutzers. 

Post and Telegraph ^Regulations. 

The Post and Telegraph Office is in the Markt Platz, 
and is open in summer 6 a.m. to 12 p.m. (1st May to 30th 
September), and in winter from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. For 
sale of stamps, issuing of post-office orders, and register- 
ing of letters, from 7 A.M. to 7 P.M. 

There are also branch and pillar post-offices in various 
parts of the town. 

Postal Bates, 



Countries. 


Prepaid, each 
15 grammes 

(i oz.) 


Post-cards, 

each 2 
grammes. 


Printed mat- 
ter, prepaid, 
eacn 50 gram- 
mes (if oz.) 


Austria . . , . \ 
Germany . . .J 
Montenegro and Servia . 
All other European coun- } 
tries, Canada and the > 
United States of America ) 
South America and Asia 


5 kr. 
7 „ 

10 „ 
20 „ 


2 kr. 

4 „ 

5 „ 

8 „ 


2 kr. 

2 „ 

3 » 

6 H 



Unstamped letters are forwarded, but double postage 
is collected on delivery. Only Austrian post-cards and 
stamps are available. 



town regulations. 8 i 

Telegraph Eates. 
Austria-Hungary — 

A first charge of 24 kr., and each word . 2 kr. 
France — 

First 5 words 60 kr., and each additional 

word . . . . . . 12 „ 

Great Britain and Ireland — 

First 5 words 85 kr., and for each addi- 
tional word . . . , . 17 ,, 
German Empire — 

A first charge of 24 kr., and each word . 6 „ 
Italy— 

A first charge of 24 kr., and each word . 8 ,, 
Switzerland — 

Per word . . . . . 6 „ 

United States and Canada — 

From 1 fl. 27 kr. to 2 fl. 47 kr., according 

to destination. 
In all cases the address and signature must be paid for. 

Tariff of the Diehstmais^n-Institute. 
Proprietor — William Knoll. 

1 . For messages and light employments, or carrying 
packages up to 15 kilogrammes, J hour, 1 5 kr. ; J 
hour, 20 kr. 5 I hour, 30 kr. ; each additional hour, 
15 kr. 

2. For heavy work, and for messages beyond town 
limits, J hour, 20 kr. ; J hour, 30 kr. ; I hour, 40 kr. ; 
each additional hour, 20 kr. 



82 TOWN REGULATIONS. 

3. Carrying packages to and from the railway station, 
50 to 60 kilogrammes, 60 kr. Each additional 10 kilo- 
grammes, 10 kr. 

4. Messages from 9 p.m. to 6 a.m. are charged half 
as much again as ordinary messages. 

Cleaning clothing and boots, per week, each per- 
son, 1 florin. 

Carrying a piano one way, 2 florins. 
,, v both ways, 3 florins. 



( §3 ) 



VIIL 

DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN AND PRINCIPAL 
BUILDINGS. 



^;-^j5pjHE town of Carlsbad consists principally of 
Willis, two long streets, which extend for about 



a mile on either side of the river Tepel, 
a clear and rapid stream, which winds through 
the town in the shape of the letter S, and which 
is crossed by one large stone, and a number of 
small iron and wooden bridges. These streets, as we 
approach from the station, take the names, on the left 
bank, of the Gartenzeile, Mtihlbadgasse, and Alte 
Wiese ; and on the right the Eger Strasse, Kaiser 
Strasse, Kreuzgasse, Sprudelgasse, and Neue Wiese, 
the latter being simply portions of the long Marienbad 
road, which runs through the town. In the centre of 
the town, on the left bank, is the Markt Platz, in the 
immediate neighbourhood of which are the Sprudel 
Colonnade, Miihlbrunn Colonnade, and the Curhaus — 
the principal places of resort of the visitors. From 
the Markt Platz along the left bank of the river runs 
the Alte Wiese, a favourite promenade (see page 109). 



84 TOWN AND BUILDINGS. 

The oldest portion of the town is that surrounding the 
Markt Platz and Sprudel Colonnade, while the newer 
hotels and villas extend on either side of the Tepel, 
and line the heights above the left bank. Beyond the 
Alte Wiese the valley of the Tepel is laid out with 
beautiful walks and drives, having all the advantages 
of a large and well-kept park. (For detailed descrip- 
tions of the walks and drives see page 109.) 

The town at present has about 12,000 inhabitants 
and 900 houses, mostly hotels and lodging-houses, the 
majority of which have been built within the last thirty 
years. At the time of the visit of Charles IV. in 
1358, the town only contained forty houses ; and even 
two hundred years later, only consisted of the Markt 
Platz and the Sprudelgasse. The next streets built 
were the Kreuzgasse and the Andreasgasse. The first 
houses on the Alte Wiese were built in 1690, and in 
1796 the first shops on the Alte Wiese were erected 
by the town guilds, in whose possession they remained 
until 1842, when they were sold to private individuals 
and rebuilt. None of the buildings in Carlsbad have 
in themselves any particular historical or architectural 
interest ; but, taken as a whole, the town is well built, 
and, aided by its natural attractions, it is picturesque 
and cheerful. 

The chief occupation of the inhabitants of Carlsbad 
is housing, feeding, and generally supplying the wants 
of its numerous visitors. Its principal industries are 
the polishing and carving of objects made of sprudel- 



I 



TOWN AND BUILDINGS. 85 

stone, the manufacture of the various products of the 
Carlsbad salts, and of hand-made needles and pins, 
which latter have quite a celebrity, and which as 
late as the commencement of this century were known 
throughout Germany and Austria as " Carlsbad wares.'' 
Goethe during one of his visits sent a parcel of Carls- 
bad pins to his favourite Fraulein von Stein, with a 
letter telling her they cost 7 marks, " as brass was so 
dear/' There are also a few manufactories of boots and 
gloves, which are of excellent quality. A considerable 
trade is carried on in porcelain, which is made in the 
vicinity. 

Other specialties of Carlsbad are " Carlsbad plums/' 
which are prepared by the fruit being partially dried in 
the sun, and which are even superior to the finest French 
plums ; and " Carlsbad wafers," a thin dessert biscuit, 
which can be had best at Barbara Bayr's, Konigshof. 

The inhabitants of Carlsbad are a kindly, intelligent, 
and industrious people, and always willing to do all 
in their power to add to the comfort and enjoyment 
of visitors. An exceedingly pleasant trait in their 
character is their kindness to birds, of which there are 
a great number and variety in and around Carlsbad. 
Killing, and robbing the nests of small birds is strictly 
forbidden by law, and besides this, a society cares for 
and feeds them during the winter. The birds are 
therefore naturally very tame, and any visitor who 
has a few crumbs to scatter can soon attract numbers 
of them round him. 



86 TOWN AND BUILDINGS. 

The majority of the inhabitants are Eoman Catholics, 
but there are German and English Protestant and 
Eussian churches, as well as a Jewish synagogue. 

Public Buildings. 

The principal centre of attraction is the Sprudel 
Colonnade, a large and handsome pavilion of iron and 
glass, erected in 1 879 over the Sprudel and Hygeia 
springs at a cost of 254,000 florins. The principal 
entrances are from the Sprudelgasse and at the west 
end. The springs are in the north-east portion of the 
building, while the south-west portion consists of a 
large promenade hall, in which is ample space for a 
thousand people. Here the orchestra plays every 
morning from six until eight. After drinking each 
glass of the waters, visitors promenade round the hall 
to the strains of the band for a quarter of an hour, all 
being done with the greatest regularity, notices being 
put up at either end requesting the visitors to circulate 
from right to left. This long line of promenaders, of 
many nationalities, with their varied costumes, is one 
of the most picturesque sights in Europe, to which a 
grotesque element is lent by the earthenware mugs 
which each patient carries, either in their hand or, 
mo^e generally, suspended from their necks. The hall 
is prettily decorated with palms and flowering plants, 
while round the walls and up the centre are ranged 
comfortable seats for the use of the Curguest's spec- 
tators. On dark days the hall is brilliantly illuminated 



TOWN AND BUILDINGS. 87 

by handsome chandeliers. Opposite the orchestra is a 
monument erected in honour of the celebrated Carlsbad 
physician, Dr. Becher, died 1792 (see p. 40). En- 
tered from the promenade hall are the rooms containing 
the springs, which are conducted from the main reser- 
voir by pipes. (For description of the springs see 

P- 930 

Beside the Sprudel Colonnade is the Sprudel Bath- 
house, which contains thirty-six baths ; the baths on 
the ground floor being of porcelain, and on the second 
floor of metal. 

On the opposite side of the river, below the Markt 
Platz, fronting on the Muhlbrunngasse, is the Miihlbrunn 
Colonnade, a handsome covered promenade of Corin- 
thian architecture, 410 feet in length, supported by 
96 pillars, and decorated with eight classical stone 
statues. The building was completed in 1880 at a 
cost of 800,000 florins. Under the Colonnade are the 
Muhlbrunnen (p. 101), Neubrunnen (p. 1 01), There- 
sienbrunnen (p. 102), Bernhardsbrunnen (p. 102), and 
Elizabethquelle (p. 1 03). 

Near the Miihlbrunn Colonnade, and attached to the 
Stadthaus, is the Muhlbad, which is supplied by the 
waters of the springs in the Miihlbrunn Colonnade. 
These bath-rooms are exceedingly comfortable and well 
fitted up, the baths being of porcelain. 

The Stadthaus is a plain building, erected in 1 8 74 
on the foundations of an older structure built in 
1510. 

Beyond the Muhlbrunn Colonnade is the Curliaus, a 



88 TOWN AND BUILDINGS. 

large castellated building of little architectural preten- 
sions, erected in 1 874—77, at a cost of 3 50,000 florins. 
The interior, however, is comfortable, and admirably 
fitted for the purpose for which it was designed. The 
lower storey is used for bathing purposes — the bathing 
rooms being high and well ventilated, and some of 
them, called " Salon-bader," are luxuriously fitted up. 
In all, there are seventy-five mineral baths, twenty-six 
peat baths, and a Russian steam bath, which, how- 
ever, is fitted up in a rather primitive style. On this 
floor there is also a reception room. In the upper 
storey is a large concert salon, in which concerts and 
balls are given (p. 61), a restaurant, and three reading- 
rooms, which are liberally supplied with the principal 
European newspapers. The English and American 
newspapers taken are — The Times, The Daily News, 
Daily Telegraph, Standard, Illustrated London News, 
Punch, Galignanis Messenger, New York Herald, Tri- 
bttne, and the American Register. Readers pay a small 
fee for admission (see page 63). 

To the east of the Curhaus is the Strangers Hospital 
for poor patients visiting Carlsbad, containing four bed 
and four bath-rooms. Beyond the Curhaus, to the 
west, is the Military Hospital, in which accommoda- 
tion is provided for 3 3 officers and 210 privates. 
The hospital was built in 1856 from the proceeds 
of a lottery. In the dining-hall is a large oil- 
painting by Randier, representing the discovery of the 
springs at Carlsbad by Charles IV. Admission to 
the hospital can only be had by an order from the 



TOWN AND BUILDINGS. 89 

Commandant. The springs which supply the hospital 
are the Hochbergerquelle and the Kaiserbrunn. 

Beyond the hospital is the Stadt-Park, a prettily 
laid out open space, shaded with trees, under which 
tables and chairs are placed for visitors to drink their 
coffee, and sit and listen to the band. In the park is 
an excellent restaurant, open 1 st May to 1 st September. 

On the opposite side of the river, near the stone 
bridge, is the Neiibacl, a commodious stone building, 
completed in 1880, at a cost of 165,600 florins ex- 
clusive of the cost of the ground. On the ground- 
floor are twenty-two peat baths, and on the first floor 
twenty-four mineral baths, the first-class baths being 
of porcelain, and the second-class of wood. 

Opposite the Neubad is the Zweite Volkschule, in the 
upper storey of which is the Town Library and Museum, 
open Wednesdays and Saturdays, 2 to 4 P.M. The 
Museum contains collections of natural history, minerals, 
and a few curiosities. 

On a small eminence above the Markt Platz is 
the oldest building in Carlsbad, the Stadtthurm, or 
Town-tower, erected in 1608 on the site of the castle 
built by Charles IV. in 1358. It was greatly dam- 
aged by fire in 1757, and rebuilt a few years later. 
Formerly all guests arriving at Carlsbad were wel- 
comed by a flourish of trumpets sounded from the 
town tower. This custom was abolished in 1852, as 
visitors began to complain about their rest being con- 
stantly disturbed at all hours. 

In the Markt Platz is a monument to the Holy 



90 TOWN AND BUILDINGS. 

Trinity , erected in 1 7 1 6 by the Countess Wrtby, in 
commemoration of the escape of Carlsbad from the 
plague, which raged throughout Bohemia in 171 3. 
In former times on Trinity Sunday the clergy of the 
town marched round the statue in procession after 
morning service. 

Nearly opposite the statue is the Post and Telegraph 
Office, erected in 1875. (For post and telegraph 
regulations see p. 80.) 

The most beautiful public building in Carlsbad is 
the new Theatre on the Neue Wiese, a handsome 
edifice of Renaissance architecture, with a fine facade 
decorated with groups of figures representing Poetry 
and Music, and richly ornamented with designs in 
terra-cotta and plaster-work. The building — which 
was erected in a remarkably short space of time, the 
first stone having been laid on the 1 st of November 
1885, and the first performance given on the 15th 
of May 1886 — occupies the site of the old theatre 
erected in 1784. The interior is chastely decorated 
in white and gold in Louis XVI. style, the balcony 
panels being richly upholstered in red velvet. On 
the ceiling are four fine frescoes. The whole theatre 
is lighted with electric light, and the body of the 
house is protected from fire by an iron curtain. On 
the first and second floor are refreshment buffets. 
(For hours of performance and prices of seats see 
page 59.) 

Churches. — The principal church in Carlsbad is 
the Church of St, Magdalen or the Dekanal Kirche, 



TOWN AND BUILDINGS. 9 I 

a plain Romanesque edifice with two towers, erected in 
1733-36 on the site of an older building which had 
fallen into great disrepair, and which was pulled down 
by desire of the Emperor Charles VI., who made a first 
donation of IOOO ducats towards the new building. 

It is not known when the original church was 
founded, the church records having been destroyed 
during the great fire of 1604. The earliest mention 
of it, however, in existing records is in 14 1 9. 

Like the exterior, the interior is plain, and contains 
little of either antiquarian or artistic interest. Above 
the high altar is a picture of St. Magdalen, which 
was presented by Lord Odo Russell, the late British 
Ambassador at the Court of Berlin, who lived for some 
time at Carlsbad, and became a great favourite in the 
town. To the left is a painting representing the con- 
version of St. Magdalen, and on the right the Cruci- 
fixion with St. Magdalen at the Cross. Above the 
altar are four colossal figures- of the Evangelists. 

The services in the church are performed by the 
deacons of the ancient Order of the Red Cross with 
the Star, which was established during the Crusades to 
care for the sick and wounded. On their return from 
Palestine in 1227 they settled in Bohemia, and were 
presented with a hospital in Prague by King Wen- 
celaus I., which is still under their charge. They 
were admitted to Holy Orders by Pope Gregory IX., 
and have since supplied ministers to many of the 
Bohemian churches. The Order still holds consider- 
able possessions in Austria and Bohemia. 



92 TOWN AND BUILDINGS. 

The Andreas Kirche in the Pragerstrasse, dating 
from 1500, is the oldest ecclesiastical building in 
Carlsbad. Over the altar is a fine painting of the 
martyrdom of St. Andreas, which is attributed to 
Leonardo da Vinci. It was the gift of Countess 
Pauline von Luxenstein in 1677. A copy of this 
picture is in the Belvedere at Vienna. In the dis- 
used graveyard attached to the church, a son of Mozart, 
who died at Carlsbad in 1844, is buried. 

Hours of Service in the Roman Catholic Churches. — 
Mass daily at 7, 9, and 10 A.M. Sundays and festivals, 
mass, 7 and 8 A.M. High mass with sermon, 9 A.M. 
Mass, 11 a.m Vespers, 3 p.m. 

The German Protestant Church in the Marienbad- 
strasse is a plain building consecrated in I 865. The 
church was erected by subscriptions collected among 
the Curguests, among whom the King of Prussia and 
King George of Hanover were liberal subscribers. 
Services on Sundays at 1 1 a.m. Pastor Rodewald. 

The Russian Church, Marienbadstrasse, was erected 
in 1867. Services from May 1st to September 30th 
— Sundays and festivals, 1 1 A.M. and 6 P.M. 

The English Church on the Schlossberg, a tastefully 
designed Gothic edifice, was consecrated by the Lord 
Bishop of London in 1877. Services from 1st May 
to 30th September — Sundays 1 1 a.m. and 4 P.M. 
The services are performed by visiting clergymen of 
the Church of England . 



( 93 ) 



'c&mTW'j 




IX. 

THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD, 

JRADITION tells us that the method in which 
^IjJ^ the Emperor Charles IV. took his bath was 
by sitting on a stone bench, carved out of the 
rock, over the Kaiser Karlsquelle, with his legs in the 
water. For the first two centuries after the discovery 
of the springs the waters were only used for bathing. 
During this period the patient was kept in the hot mine- 
ral water for eight to twelve hours at a time, the object 
being to cause an eruption to break out over the whole 
body, in order that the " evil humours," as they were 
called, might be brought to the surface ; or, as we are 
told, " the waters bit the skin so that the evil matter 
might come out." When this took place the patient was 
pronounced in a fair way to recovery. It was not until 
1 550 that the patients began to drink the waters. This 
treatment was advocated by Dr. Payer in a pamphlet 
published in 1522, in which he writes — " Nature has 
created this bath for patients and not for anybody's lust or 
amusement." The new treatment at first seems to have 
been as heroic as the old, as Dr. Hoffmann, a celebrated 



94 T HE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 

physician of his time (1705), prescribed a dose of eigh- 
teen to twenty glasses of the water as a commencement, 
which was gradually increased to thirty or forty glasses. 
Dr. Tilling (1756), who was himself under treatment, 
states that he drank from fifty to sixty glasses within 
two hours. At that time drinking was not done, as at 
present, in the open air at the springs, but in a warm 
room, and the effect was similar to that of drinking 
water in a Turkish bath. When the drinking of the 
waters was first instituted it was alternated with the 
bathing — seven days being devoted to drinking, and the 
next seven days to the baths ; but &s time went on 
the latter period was gradually diminished and the 
former extended, till finally both the waters and the 
baths were taken together. In 1766 the first really 
scientific analysis of the physical and chemical proper- 
ties of the mineral waters was made by Dr. David 
Becher, who published a pamphlet embodying his ana- 
lysis and setting forth his treatment, which may be said 
to have been the first work which attracted general 
. attention to the springs of Carlsbad. 

The first document setting forth the virtues of the 
mineral waters at Carlsbad is a fine Latin Ode written 
by Dr. von Bohuslaw of Lobkowitz in 1 5 10. 

The theory of the rising of the springs may be 
generally explained as follows. The rain water and 
melting snow, and probably part of the river Tepel and 
its tributary streams, percolating through the crevices 
of the strata of granite rocks which underlie the 



THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 95 

district, absorb a number of mineral constituents — 
carbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia, sulphate of soda 
and potash, chloride of sodium, &c. The celebrated 
chemist Herr Gottl, by a series of exhaustive experi- 
ments, has proved conclusively that the granite of 
which the hills round Carlsbad are formed contains all 
the mineral constituents which have been found in 
the springs. These waters penetrate to a great depth, 
which, from the temperature of the springs, is ascer- 
tained to be not less than 8000 feet. By the action 
of the earth's heat at this depth on these mineral con- 
stituents, carbonic acid gas is given off, which forces 
the water back again to the surface, the hottest spring 
being that which has the shortest channel connecting 
it with the main reservoir. This spring is the Sprudel, 
but all the other springs in Carlsbad come from the 
same source. The taste of all the waters, — which are 
free from smell and not unpleasant, having been com- 
pared to the flavour of over-salted chicken broth, — is 
the same, except that the cooler waters contain rather 
more carbonic acid gas. When exposed to the air the 
waters become cloudy and precipitate a brown sub- 
stance, which is precisely of the same nature as the 
Sprudelstein. The daily discharge of the springs is 
2,000,000 gallons, of which two-thirds is discharged 
by the Sprudel. 



9 6 



THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 



Physical and Chemical Properties of the Springs. 

Analyses of the springs have been made by Dr. 
Berger (1708), Dr. Borries (1733), Dr. Becher (1770), 
Dr. Schneider (1855), Herr Baysky (1862), Herr Gottl 
(1870), and by Professor Ludwig and Dr. Mauthner 
(1879). Their leading constituents, sulphate of soda, 
carbonate of soda, and muriate of soda, place them 
among the so-called alkaline and saline springs, or 
Glauber salt waters. 

A comparative analysis of nearly all the springs has 
been frequently made, as above mentioned, in order to 
ascertain the similarity or the difference which the 
springs may show in their composition. It will -be 
readily seen on examining the following table, showing 
the results obtained by Professor Ludwig in 1879 °f ^ ne 
three chief springs, that their constituents are almost 
identical : — 



Leading Constituents of the Waters. 



10,000 Grammes of the Water 


Sprudel. 


Miihlbrunn. 


Schlossbrunn. 


contain 


Temp. 162 F. 


Temp. 132 F. 


Temp. 126° F. 




Grammes. 


Grammes. 


Grammes. 


Sulphate of soda . . . 


24.05 


23.91 


23.16 


Carbonate of soda . . 


12.98 


12.79 


12.28 


Chloride of sodium . . 


IO.42 


IO.23 


IO.05 


Carbonate of lime . . 


3.21 


3.27 


3-34 


Carbonate of magnesia . 


I.67 


I.6l 


1.61 


Sulphate of potash . . 
Total of solid constituents 


O.86 


I.I9 


i-93 


55-17 


54-73 


53.30 


Carbonic acid half com- ) 
bined ) 


7.76 


7.68 


7-49 


Carbonic acid free . . 


1.90 


5-17 


5.82 




Q 
< 

O 






THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 



97 



Later analysis has revealed some other constituents, 
but only in very small quantities, namely, carbonate of 
iron, oxydulate of manganese, phosphate of alumina, 
phosphate of lime, fluoride of potassium, iodide and 
bromide of sodium, lithium, boracic acid, rubidium, 
caesium, and arsenic. 

The temperature of the springs is as follows : — 



i. Sprudel 1 

2. Hygiens q uellej h&ye a temperature of 

3. JBernhardsbrunn 

4. Curhausquelle 

5. Neubrunn . 

6. Felsenquelle 

7. Theresienbrunn 

8. Milhlbrunn 

9. Schlossbrunn 

10. Marktbrunn 

11. Kaiserbrunn 

12. Elisabethquelle 

13. Hochberger quelle 

14. Kaiser Garlquelle 

15. Russische Kronenquelle 

16. Sprudelsauerling 



Eleven only of these springs are now prescribed by 
physicians, viz., (1.) The Sprudel ; (2.) The Bernhards- 
brunn ; (3.) The Neubrunn ; (4.) The Felsenqiielle ; (5.) 
The Theresienbrunn; (6.) The Milhlbrunn; (7.) The 
Schlossbrunn; (8.) The Marktbrunn; (9.) The Kaiser- 
brunn ; (10.) The Elisabethquelle; (11.) Tlie Kaiser 
Carlquelle, 

The Sprudel is the most abundant and the most used 

G 



hrenheit. 


R£aumeur. 


1 66° 


59-5° 


i5i° 


53 3 


1 49 


52 3 


145° 


5o° 


140° 


48° 


140 


48 D 


133° 


45° 


130 


43-5' 


122° 


4o° 


120° 


39° 


u6° 


37-6° 


106° 


33° 


I02° 


3i° 


97° 


29° 


84° 


23° 



98 THE SFKINGS OF CARLSBAD. 

of the Carlsbad springs. It discharges about 90 gallons 
per minute, or 1 30,000 gallons per day. The waters are 
used both for drinking and bathing, and also for the 
manufacture of Sprudel salts. This spring has the 
property of rapidly encrusting any objects placed in it, 
with a thick yellowish brown coating, called sprudel- 
stein, consisting principally of lime and silicious earth, 
the yellow colour being due to a small quantity of iron 
which it contains. The water is so impregnated with 
this earth that the pipes which conduct it to the sur- 
face have to be cleaned four times a year. The ex- 
planation of this phenomenon is that the mineral con- 
stituents in the water are held in solution by the 
carbonic acid gas. As soon as the water comes into 
contact with the air, it discharges its gas and precipi- 
tates the solid matter it contains. In addition to this 
sprudelstein, a greenish mould is formed at the edge 
of the springs, which, on microscopic examination, has 
been found to consist of animalculae of a very low 
order. The waters are conducted from the main reser- 
voir to the surface by iron pipes, which are about 20 
feet in depth. Only about one-sixth of the water in 
the spring is discharged in the fountain, the remainder 
supplying the various bath-houses and the factory of 
the Sprudel salts, any excess of the amount required 
for these purposes being allowed to escape into the 
Tepel. The water rises in a volume about ij ft. in 
diameter and 3 ft. in height, and every few minutes 
suddenly springs up to a height of 6 to 8 ft., with 



THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 99 

a faint subterranean murmur, throwing up clouds of 
steam. When the volume of steam becomes excessive 
it is considered an almost certain sign of approaching 
rain. The Sprudel has a temperature of 1 66° Fahr., hot 
enough to boil eggs ; indeed some of the thrifty house- 
keepers in the neighbourhood use the water for cooking 
purposes. (For analysis see page 96.) The analysis 
of a large body of the water made by Herr H. Gottl of 
Carlsbad gives traces of twenty metals and acids, of 
which gold is one. 

There have been many violent eruptions of the Spru- 
del when the spring, either from an excess of steam or 
extra pressure of the water, has broken through the 
upper crust, necessitating new borings and the sealing 
up again of the spring. (See page .) Daring the 
great earthquake at Lisbon the spring ceased to flow 
for three days. 

The Hygiexsquelle, which springs beside the Sprudel, 
broke forth in 1 809 during one of the eruptions of the 
latter spring, when it shot up in a column as high as 
the third storey of the neighbouring houses. Coming 
from the same source, its constituents are, of course, 
identical with those of the Sprudel. It is only used for 
bathing. 

The Marktbruxx, in the Markt Platz, enclosed in a 
small colonnade, was discovered in 1838, and is used for 
drinking. Its temperature is 122 Fahr. The follow- 
ing analysis was made by Dr. Ludwig of Vienna in 

1879:- 



100 



THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 



In 1O5OOO grammes of water — 



Sulphate of potass . 


1. 814 


55 55 soda 


. 23.860 


Chloride of sodium . 


. 10.304 


Carbonate of lithia . 


. 0.123 


55 55 soda . 


. 12.705 


55 55 lime . 


• 3.350 


55 55 magnesia . 


. 1.634 


55 55 strontium . 


0.004 


55 55 protoxide of iron 


0.006 


55 55 5, 5, man£ 


^anese 0.002 


Borate of soda 


0.040 


Oxide of alumina . 


0.007 


Phosphate of lime . 


0.007 


Fluor of sodium 


0.05 1 


Silica . 


0.712 




54.619 


Carbonic acid in combination . 


. 7.681 


Free carbonic acid . 


• 5-557 


Density . 


. 1.00357 



The Kaiser Karlsquelle is also in the Markt 
Platz, and has been enclosed since 187 1. It is prin- 
cipally used for drinking. This is the oldest spring in 
Carlsbad5 and is supposed to have been that in which 
the Emperor Charles IV. bathed. 

The Schlossbrunn, discovered in 1789, is a short 
distance up the hill, beyond the Kaiser Karlsquelle. 



THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 



IOI 



This spring suddenly disappeared on the occasion of 
the outbreak of the Sprudel in 1 809, and did not make 
its reappearance till 1823. The waters are principally 
used rfor drinking. (For analysis see page 96.) Op- 
posite the Schlossbrunn is the 

Russische Kroxequelle, discovered in 1844.5 and 
enclosed in the Hotel Russische Krone. 

The following springs are under the Miihlbrunn 
Colonnade : — 

The Muhlbrunn 3 known since 1571, and one of the 
most used of the springs. Near it is the 

Neubruxx, which, in spite of its name, has been 
known for three centuries. It was first recommended 
in 1748 by Dr. Springsfeld, who gave it this name. 
It has latterly fallen into disuse, it is supposed from 
the absurd notion that drinking it was apt to produce 
vertigo. Up to 1748 the spring was only used for the 
treatment of sick horses. The following is the analysis 
by Dr. Ludwig of Vienna in 1 879 : — 

In 1O5OOO grammes of water — 





Grammes. 


Sulphate of potass . 


1.839 


,5 55 soda 


23.654 


Chloride of sodium . 


10.309 


Carbonate of lithia . 


0.1 13 


„ ,5 soda . 


12.910 


„ „ lime . 


3.287 


55 magnesia 


1.592 


55 55 strontium . 


O.C04 



102 



THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 





Grammes. 


Carbonate of protoxide of iron 


0.026 


55 5, „ 55 manganese 


traces 


Borate of soda . 


O.036 


Oxide of alumina . 


0.006 


Phosphate of lime , 


O.004 


Fluor of sodium .... 


O.046 


Silica ...... 


0.709 




54,535 


Carbonic acid in combination . 


7.627 


Free carbonic acid .... 


4.372 


Density ..,,*. 


1.00534 


Temperature 145 Fahr. 





The Bernhardsbrunnen, which takes its name from 
statue of St. Bernhard beside it, is also but little used. 

At the back of the Colonnade is the Theresienbrun- 
NEN, which has been used since 1 571. During the great 
eruption of the Sprudel in 1 809 this spring ceased to 
flow for two days. The following is the analysis by 
Dr. Ludwig of Vienna in 1 879 : — 

In 1O5OOO grammes of water — * 





Grammes 


Sulphate of potass . 


. 1. 90s 


5, 55 soda 


• 23.774 


Chloride of sodium . 


. 10.278 


Carbonate of lithia . 


. 0.113 


55 55 soda 


. 12.624 


5, 55 lime . 


• 3-277 



THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 



103 



Carbonate of magnesia 


Uriel 11 lines 

1.577 


„ „ strontium . 


0.003 


„ „ protoxide of iron . 


0.017 


» » u » manganese 


0.002 


Borate of soda ..... 


O.O36 


Oxide of alumina .... 


0.005 


Phosphate of lime .... 


0.009 


Fluor of sodium .... 


O.O46 


Silica ...... 


O./I8 




54.384 


Carbonic acid in combination . 


7.584 


Free carbonic acid . 


S-IOO 


Density ...... 


1.00537 


Temperature 140 Fahr. 





The Elisabethquelle was discovered in 1874. Tem- 
perature, 1 1 6° Fahr. This is the coolest of the springs 
in general use. The following is the analysis by Dr. 
Ludwig of Vienna in 1879 : — 

In 1 0,000 grammes of water — 





Grammes. 


Sulphate of potass . 


I.84O 


„ „ soda 


23.769 


Chloride of sodium . 


I0.3I4 


Carbonate of lithia . 


O.I2 I 


„ ,j soda . 


I2.799 


„ „ lime . 


3.273 


„ „ magnesia 


I.642 



104 



THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 





Grammes 


Carbonate of strontium . 


0.004 


„ „ protoxide of iron . 


0.026 


„ „ ,j j, manganese 


0.002 


Borate of soda .... 


0.030 


Oxide of alumina .... 


0.006 


Phosphate of lime . . . 


0.007 


Fluor of sodium .... 


0.057 


Silica • ♦ . . . 


O.724 




S4.614 


Carbonic acid in combination . 


7.697 


Free carbonic acid .... 


6.085 


Density ...... 


I.OO539 



Beyond the Muhlbrunn Colonnade is the 
Felsenquelle, which came into use in 1844, and is 
one of the favourite drinking springs. The following is 
the analysis by Dr. Ludwig of Vienna in 1879 : — 
In 10,000 grammes of water — 



Sulphate of potass . 

„ „ soda 
Chloride of sodium . 
Carbonate of lithia . 
j, „ soda . 

» >; lime • 

„ „ magnesia 

„ „ strontium 

, 3 „ protoxide of iron 



Grammes. 

1.803 

2378s 

10.314 

0.1 16 

12.836 

3-293 
1.615 
0.003 
0.026 



THE SPRINGS OF CAKLSEAD. 



10! 



Carbonate of protoxide of manganese 

Borate of soda 

Oxide of alumina 

Phosphate of lime . 

Fluor of sodium 

Silica . 



Grammes. 
0.002 
O.O36 
0.003 
O.OO7 
0.060 
O.707 



54.606 
7704 

4.653 
I.OO54O 



Carbonic acid in combination . 
Free carbonic acid . 
Density ..... 
Temperature 140 Fahr. 

Opposite the Curhaus is the Curhausquelle, enclosed 
since 1866, and principally used for bathing. The 
analysis made by Herr Gottl in 1872 is as follows : — 

In 16 ounces = 7680 grains — 





Grains. 


Sulphate of potass . 


I.92O 


„ „ soda 


I8.2I7 


Chloride of sodium . 


8-303 


Carbonate of soda . 


9.002 


„ „ lime . 


2.459 


„ „ magnesia 


1-537 


„ J, protoxide of iron . 


0.023 


Phosphate of alumina 


o.on 


Silica ...... 


0.469 




41.941 


Free carbonic acid . 


•5 



io6 



THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 



m 



The Kaiserbrunnen was discovered in 185 1, 
excavating the foundations of the Military Hospital, to 
which it is now attached. It is open to the public for 
drinking up to 9 o'clock in the morning, after which 
it is used for the barths in the hospital. The analysis 
made by Dr. Ludwig of Vienna in 1 879 is as follows : — 

In 10,000 grammes of water- — 





Grammes 


Sulphate of potass . 


I.796 


„ 55 soda . 


23.4II 


Chloride of sodium . 


10.103 


Carbonate of lithia . 


O.I2I 


5, 55 soda . 


. 12.674 


,, ,5 lime . 


3.173 


,, ,, magnesia . 


1.602 


,, ,, strontium . 


O.OO4 


,, 55 oxide of iron 


O.O29 


55 55 55 55 manganese 


C.002 


Borate of soda 


O.OS6 


Oxide of alumina 


O.OOS 


Phosphate of lime . 


0.007 


Fluor of sodium 


O.O53 


Silex ..... 


O.729 




53765 


Carbonic acid in combination . 


■ 7.S8I 


Free carbonic acid . 


5.64I 


Density ...... 


1.00537 


Temperature 120° Fahr. 





THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 



107 



The Eisexquelle is situated on the brow of the hill 
on the right bank of the Tepel, a short distance beyond 
the stone bridge. Though known for several centuries, 
it was only first used in 1852. This spring, rising 
from a separate source^ differs entirely in its consti- 
tuents from the other waters of Carlsbad. It is classed 
among the chalybeate springs, and is recommended in 
the treatment of diseases requiring iron waters. On 
coming to the surface the water is clear, but on being 
exposed to the air it takes a slight yellowish tinge. 
Its temperature is only 48° Fahr., which it retains even 
in the hottest weather. The following is the analysis 
by Herr Gottl in 1852 : — 

In 7680 grains of water — 





Grain 3. 


Sulphate of potass , 


O.O76 


„ „ soda 


0.IS6 


Chloride of sodium . 


O.I52 


Carbonate of soda 


O.O92 


„ „ lime . 


0.2I5 


„ ,, magnesia 


0.053 


Phosphate of iron . 


0.008 


Oxide of iron , 


0.345 


Silica . 


O.OI3 


Organic matter 


O.268 




1.378 


Carbonic acid . . . 1. 3 00 


to 1.700. 



The waters are used both for drinking and bathing. 



108 THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 

The Sauerbrunn rises behind the Dorotheenau. It 
contains but few mineral ingredients, but is largely 
impregnated with carbonic acid gas, and is an agree- 
able and refreshing drinking water. It is also used for 
bathing. Its temperature varies between 53 and 6o° 
Fahr, 



( log ) 



X. 
WALKS. 

The letters and numbers in brackets refer to the numbers on the 
plan in the pocket at the end of the volume. These numbers are also 
plainly marked, for the guidance of visitors, on trees or rocks at the 
sides of the paths. 

To the Alte Wiese, Kiesweg, Posthof, and 
Kaiser Park. 



w 




ijHE most frequented and one of the most beau- 
tiful promenades at Carlsbad is the Alte Wiese, 
" Old Meadow," which commences from the 
market-place and follows the left bank of the Tepel up 
the valley. The Alte Wiese, which is beautifully shaded 
with chestnut trees, presents an animated scene in the 
season, when it is thronged by all classes of visitors, 
who assemble here twice a day to promenade and to 
sit under the trees drinking their coffee and listening 
to the strains of the band at the Cafe Pupp. On the 
left-hand side, as far as the Cafe Pupp, and on the 
river-side as far as the second bridge, the street is 
lined with good shops, giving it the appearance of 



I I O WALKS. 

a bazaar. At the farther end, in the Pupp'sche Allee, 
is the handsome Hotel and Cafd Pupp, at which the 
band plays thrice weekly. The open space in front of 
the Cafe is planted with trees, nnder which are placed 
tables and chairs for the accommodation of visitors. 
In the Cafe is a large and handsome salon, in which 
the band plays when the weather is unfavourable. 

Beyond the Pupp'sche Allee we come to the Kiesiceg 
(C I ), a beautifully shaded avenue which leads along 
the river up the valley as far as the Kaiser-Brucke 
(C ii). We first pass the fine marble monument 
of Goethe, unveiled in 1883. The monument, the 
first erected to Goethe in Austria, cost 1 2,000 
marks. To the right, above a little grotto, is the 
Rasumowska Platz, an open space with seats, named 
in honour of the Russian Countess Rasumowska. 
The rocks on the side of the road here are covered 
with inscriptions recording the gratitude of many visi- 
tors, high and low, for the benefits they have received 
from the Carlsbad waters. We next pass on the right 
hand the Rohan Platz (C 6), a little shady nook with 
an iron table and seats, which were placed here by the 
family of the present Prince de Rohan, who has made 
forty-two visits to Carlsbad. On the trunk of a beech- 
tree we read an inscription to the memory of his 
father, the late Prince Louis de Rohan (d. 1837). 
Adjoining the Rohan Platz is the Kaizevin Sitz, 
" Empress's Seat," erected in memory of its having 
been the favourite resting - place of the Austrian 



WALKS. I I I 

Empress, Maria Ludovika (the third wife of Francis I.), 
who visited Carlsbad in 1810. Goethe has celebrated 
the erection of this Sitz in some charming verses. On 
the heights above the Sitz is the Summer Theatre 
(page 61). 

We now reach the Sans Souci (C 8), an elegant 
cafe, with a concert salon and tables under the trees. 
On the opposite side of the river is the little Dorotheens 
Temple (Cd 12), erected in honour of the Herzogin 
Dorothee in 179 1. A few steps farther bring us to 
a small rock called the Paulinen Sitz, dedicated to 
Pauline, Duchess of Hohenzollern. From this rock 
there is a most picturesque view of the romantic valley 
of the Tepel. 

The Kiesweg ends at the Karlsbriicke (C 1 1 ), an 
iron bridge of one arch crossing the Tepel, erected 
in 1880 at a cost of 29,000 fl. The first bridge 
here was simply a wooden foot-bridge, waggons and 
carriages having to cross the river over a ford. This 
bridge was replaced in 1798 by a carriage-bridge, 
which was carried away by a flood in 180 1. A third 
bridge was then erected and opened by Maria Theresa, 
who named it the Karlsbriicke in honour of her 
brother, the Grand Duke Charles, the victor of Aspern. 
After this the bridge was several times destroyed by 
floods, lastly in 1821, when the heavy wooden beams, 
being carried down the river, did immense damage, 
breaking into the houses and carrying away a number 
of the bridges lower down. In 1822 the Town 



T 12 



WALKS. 



Council resolved to build an iron bridge, and began to 
collect subscriptions for this purpose ; but it was not 
until 1880 that the bridge was finally completed. 

Beyond the Karlsbrucke the valley widens consider- 
ably and takes a sharp bend to the south, forming a 
picturesque amphitheatre, surrounded by beautifully 
wooded hills, rising abruptly from the level meadows. 
Here we come to the Vier Uhr Promenade (Ca 11), 
" Four o'clock Promenade " — so called from its being 
in the shade after 4 P.M. — a beautifully shaded avenue 
which leads up to the right to the Fiirstenstein-Sitz, 
" Princesses Seat" (Ca 12), a small platform of rock 
named in honour of Queen Pauline of Wurternburg, 
the Archduchess Maria of Austria, and the Duchess 
Amelia of Sachsen-Altenburg, three royal sisters who 
often visited Carlsbad. The names of the princesses 
are engraved in gilt letters on a black marble tablet. 
Farther on is the Schwarzenberg Monument (Ca 14), 
a pyramid erected in honour of Field-Marshal Prince 
von Schwarzenberg, the conqueror of Leipzic, by some 
officers of the Austrian army. 

On the right of the Karlsbrucke are a number of 
shooting-galleries, which are largely patronised by 
visitors. In the meadow is a granite obelisk, erected 
in 1883, as a thank-offering, by several Hungarian 
patients who were cured at Carlsbad. To the left, on 
the brow of the hill, are the Sauevbrunn baths and 
drinking-hall (see p. 1 08). Above the Sauerbrunn is 
the Cafd Schweizerhof, and farther along the brow of 



WALKS. I I 3 

the hill the Cafe Sehdnbrunn, two favourite resorts in 
summer. Prom both the Kiesweg and the Tier Uhr 
Promenade well-laid-out paths lead up the hills through 
the woods, the directions being indicated everywhere 
by finger-posts. 

Following the main road, which is lined with poplar 
trees, and which follows the course of the Tepel, afford- 
ing beautiful glimpses of river and woodland scenery, we 
reach the Cafi Posthof, with a prettly laid out garden, 
where Labitzky's band plays on Mondays, Wednes- 
days, and Fridays from 4 to 6 P.M., the concerts on 
Friday being symphony concerts (entrance 50 kr.) 
The large concert salon, called the " Prussian Hall," 
was opened in 1 8 1 7 with a ball, given in honour of 
Marshal Bliicher by the Cur-guests. From the Posthof 
an avenue of fruit-trees leads up the hill on the right 
to the Sclucarzenherg Sitz (see above). 

Beyond the Cafe Posthof the course of the valley 
turns westward, and, continuing our walk, we next 
pass on the right the Anions Euhe (C 22), named in 
honour of King Anthony of Saxony. Here a path to 
the left, leading to Pirkenhammer, crosses the river over 
a foot-bridge. About ten minutes farther on we come 
to the Freundschaft's- Salle (C 31) or " Friendship's 
Salon," a favourite resort, with a good restaurant and 
cafe, erected in 1 8 1 9—23. The Salle was opened with 
a ball given in honour of the Duchess of Cumberland. 
The cafe is surrounded by a pretty and well-shaded 
garden, and military concerts are given twice weekly 

H 



I I 4 WALKS. 

from 4 to 6 p.m. Opposite is the Sitz der Freunde, 
" the Friends' Seat," erected in 1781, and named in 
honour of the Eussian Admiral Orloff and Count 
Briihl, who were boon companions, and who often 
visited Carlsbad together. Five years later the Countess 
Briihl erected a small granite tablet with the inscrip- 
tion, ' A. Hygeia le xxi. Aout mdcclxxxvi. erige par 
Tina Briihl." Near it is another stone with the inscrip- 
tion, " Elle ecarte les maux, les languers, les faiblesses, 
sans elle beauts n'est plus " — She drives away the 
evils of languor and weakness — without her beauty 
cannot exist. 

Beyond this point the road, still following the river, 
again bends northwards, leading in about a quarter of 
an hour to the Kaiser Park (C 41), a Swiss chalet, 
with a cafe and restaurant nestling in a most pictu- 
resque and shady nook. The walk can be extended 
by following the road for half an hour to the village of 
Pirkenhammer (see p. 126). 

To the Ecce Homo Kapelle, Franz Josef's Hohe, 

AND FlNDLATER'S TEMPLE. 

Starting from the Pupp'sche Allee we turn to the 
right up the hill and reach the Mariannens Ruhe 
(A 10), a rocky prominence surmounted by a cross, 
from which there is a pretty view of the Alte Wiese 
and the town. On the side of the rock is the inscrip- 
tion, " Plus etre que paraitre " — " Be more than you 



WALKS. I I 5 

appear to be." This spot is named in honour of the 
Princess Marian of Saxony. From the Mariannen's 
Huhe we take the Buturlin Weg (following the marks 
Ab), a road constructed by the Russian Count Buturlin, 
which ascends through the wood in about twenty 
minutes to the Hammer or JEcce Homo Kapelle. Here 
two paths, indicated by finger-posts, branch off, lead- 
ing to the Franz Josefs Hoke, which is crowned with 
glorietta, commanding one of the most beautiful views 
round Carlsbad. Beyond the Franz Josefs Hohe we 
follow the path, A 29 to 12, where we again reach 
the Pupp'sche-Allee. 

Another path (B) from the Ecce Homo Chapel 
descends to the Findlater's Temple, a classical semi- 
circular building surrounded by a cupola, erected by 
Lord Findlater, a Scotch nobleman, in gratitude for 
the benefits he received from the Carlsbad waters. 

Beyond the Findlater's Temple a path descends 
on the right (Ca 28—39) to the Freundschaffs Salle 
(p. 113), the main path (Ca 28—15) leading to the 
Schwartzenberg Obelisk and the Yier Uhr Promenade 
(p. 1 I 2). 

To the Findlater's Pyramid and Freundschafts- 

Hohe, 

Starting from the Mariennen's Ruhe (A 10), near 
the Pupp'sche Allee (see page 109), we take the first 
path to the right (Ab I I ), which leads in windings 



I I 6 WALKS. 

through the wood, passing the Hehnens Stiz, the 
favourite resting-place of the Grand Duchess Helena 
of Russia, to the Findlater's Pyramid, a granite 
obelisk, twenty-eight feet in height, erected in 1804 
in honour of Lord Findlater, " the friend and beautifier 
of nature, as a token of the gratitude of the citizens of 
Carlsbad." The pyramid commands a fine view of the 
valley below. 

About a quarter of an hour farther up the hill (by 
path D) we come to the Freundschafts-Hdhe (D 5), 
also commanding a beautiful view. From here a small 
footpath ascends to the Vogelhutte, the highest point 
on the left bank of the river with the exception of the 
Aberg. From the Freundschaft's-Hohe we descend 
to the Friedrich Wilhelm Flatz, named in honour of 
Frederick William III., from which there is one of 
the finest views of the town. A little lower down 
(path "W) is an open space in the wood, which is often 
illuminated. From here a path winds down to the 
Marien Kapelle, behind the Hotel Pupp. 

To THE HlRSCHENSPRUNG. 

The easiest way of making the ascent of the Hir- 
sch en sprung is by starting from the Markt Platz or 
Curhaus and ascending to the English chapel, where 
we take the road to the left (B 5). After passing the 
mark B 8, we find a path to the left, called the 
Jubildumsweg, which leads to the Himmel auf Frden, a 



WALKS. I I 7 

little retired spot which scarcely merits its high-sound- 
ing name. Beyond this we take a path to the right, 
shortly after passing Jb 2, which joins the path, de- 
scribed below, leading directly up to the Hirschen- 
sprung. The rocks here are covered with inscriptions 
commemorating cures by the Carlsbad waters. 

A shorter but somewhat steeper path can be taken 
from the Markt Platz by passing the Schlossbrunnen 
and turning to the left along the Hirschensprung- 
gasse, from which a path (at A 5) turns to the right, 
leading in windings up the face of the hill. At Aa 8 
the path divides, and we take that leading to the 
right, which shortly after joins the path from the 
Jubilaumsweg (see above). A short distance farther 
on the path divides, leading on the right directly to 
the restaurant, and to the left to Meyer s Gloriette, a 
little temple built by a merchant of Vienna who was a 
native of Carlsbad. Near this point is an isolated 
rock, on the summit of which is a bronze figure of 
a chamois. Beyond the Gloriette we pass a black 
marble tablet erected in honour of the Grand Duke 
of Saxe Weimar, and reach the Petersliohe, named 
in honour of Peter the Great, who ascended the Hir- 
schensprung mounted on a bare-backed horse, and 
inscribed on the cross the letters, M. S. P. I., " Manu 
sua Petrus I." This cross has unfortunately been 
destroyed, the present cross, which is on the summit 
of the rock, being modern. On the rock before the 
cross is a colossal bust of Peter the Great. On the 



I I 8 WALKS. 

face of the rock below is a black marble slab on which 
are inscribed the names of Russian nobles who have 
visited Carlsbad, the list being headed by the name of 
Peter the Great. A few steps above the Petershohe 
is the Theresienhohe, a small open space with a stone 
pryamid erected in honour of Theresa of Angouleme. 
A stone stairway now leads us to the summit of the 
Hirschensprung, which commands a magnificent pano- 
ramic view of the valleys of the Tepel and Eger and 
the Erzgebirge. A short distance below the summit, 
on a terrace, is a cafe restaurant. 

The Hirschensprung, or Deer's Leap, is the tradi- 
tional spot from which the deer sprang while pursued 
by Charles IV. (see page 28). 

TO THE BELVIDERE AND ABERG. 

Starting up the hill from the Marien Kapelle behind 
the Caf6 Pupp, and passing the Friedrich Wilhelm 
Flatz (see page 1 1 6), we take the path to the right at 
B 20, and then to the left at B 19, along the brow of 
the hill, keeping the Freundschaft's Hohe (see page 1 1 6) 
on our right, and after a pleasant walk of about twenty 
minutes through the woods we arrive at the Katha- 
rinen Flatz (E 9), a sheltered nook among the trees, 
named in Leopold Stohr's " Reminiscences of Carls- 
bad/' after his friend Katharine Deimel. A short 
distance beyond, a path to the left (Ea 13) leads up 
to the Belvidere, which commands a fine view of the 



WALKS. I I 9 

valley, with the ruins of Engelhaus in the distance. 
Near the Belvidere the path (G) descends to the 
Kaiser Park (see page I 1 4). If, instead of turning off 
to the Belvidere at E 13, we keep straight on, we 
come to the Bild, so called from a picture of the 
Madonna fastened to a pine-tree. In about twenty 
minutes more, keeping along the path E, we reach 
the summit of the Aberg, 2000 feet above the sea, or 
806 feet above the Sprudel, the highest point near 
Carlsbad. Near the summit is a cafe and a tower, 
from which we have a magnificent view. Beyond the 
summit the path turns northwards, and descends to 
Ziegelhutte, where refreshments can be had. We can 
return to Carlsbad by St. Leonard's Chapel and the 
Echo (see route below). 

Another way to reach the Aberg is by taking the 
road from the Schlossberg, passing the English Church, 
and following the road B till we come to B 13, when 
we take the road Be, leading to Kaiser Karl IV.s 
Jagerhaus. Passing the bowling-green, we come to 
an open space, and crossing a small brook, find a 
path on the left (at Be 24), which leads up to the 
Russell Sitz, a seat on a rock named in honour of Lord 
Odo Russell, the late British Ambassador to the Court 
of Berlin. The rock commands a fine view of the 
JErzgebirge, through an opening in the woods. 

Beyond this we reach the Echo, a spot where an 
echo answers five or six times. From the Echo we 
take the path Beb, and next pass, situated on a small 



120 WALKS. 

hill, the Chapel of St. Leonard, formerly the parish 
church of the ancient village of Thiergarten, of which 
only a few traces now remain of old walls built of 
Sprudelstein. The inhabitants of this village migrated 
to Carlsbad after King John had issued his charter 
(see page 28). The chapel has been restored by the 
late Lord Odo Russell, British Ambassador to the 
Court of Berlin. About ten minutes farther on we 
arrive at ZiegelJiutte, from whence we take a path to 
the left, leading up to the summit of the hill (see 
route above). 

To the Weisses Kreuz and Schutzen Park. 

Proceeding to the English Church, we take the 
road to the right (Bb), which we follow as far as the 
Restaurant Klein Versailles (Bb 12). Here we cross 
the meadows by a path which leads along the edge of 
the forest. A few paces beyond Bb 22 we turn to 
the right, and in about five minutes arrive at a group 
of rocks, surmounted by a white cross, called the 
Weisses Kreuz. Farther on, the path reaches the Marie 
Sophienweg, a carriage road, along which we turn first 
to the right (32) and then to the left (31), and wind- 
ing round the slope of the mountain, have beautiful 
views of the valley of the Eger. We now descend 
into the valley, and take the road leading to the rail- 
way station, and passing the restaurant of the Schiitzen 
Park, return to Carlsbad. 



WALKS. I 2 I 

To the Panorama, Waldschloss, Drei Kreuzberg, 

AXD EwiGES LEBEX. 

Starting from the church opposite the Sprudel 
Colonnade, and proceeding up the Schulgasse to 
the left, we arrive first at the Stephans Platz, and 
then reach the Stadtgaiien, an open space in which is a 
column surmounted by a statue of Charles IV. , erected 
in 1858 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of 
the foundation of Carlsbad. From here we have a 
fine view of the town. A short distance farther on, 
on the left, is the Panorama, a favourite point of view, 
with a cafe restaurant, in which is a collection of 
stuffed animals killed in the neighbourhood. 

The return to the town can be made by following 
the road to the left, or the walk may be extended by 
taking the first road to the right from the Prager 
Strasse, which leads by a winding path to the 
villa of Waldschloss. The next turning to the right 
(K) from the Prager Strasse, a short distance before 
we come to the Andreas-Kirche, leads up the hill 
winding round behind the slope to the Restaurant of 
the Drei- Kreuzberg, with a small garden. Xear the 
Restaurant is a camera obscura. Five minutes farther 
on we reach the summit of the Drei-Kreuzberg itself, 
and in ten minutes more the summit of the Ottds-Hdhe, 
named in honour of the late King of Greece, to whom 
a statue has been erected. 

To return from the Otto's-Hohe we can descend a 



I 2 2 WALKS. 

steep path which leads directly down to the Panorama. 
From the Otto's-Hohe a footpath leads to the summit 
of the Ewiges Leben (2003 feet), the highest point 
near Carlsbad. On the summit a gloriette has been 
erected, which commands the most extensive view 
round Carlsbad. 

To the Wiener Sitz, Sauerbrunn, and 

SCHWEIZERHOF. 

We proceed along the right bank of the Tepel by 
the Marienbad Strasse, passing on our right, as we 
approach the Karlsbriicke, on the face of a steep rock, 
the iron head of a lion, with a serpent in its mouth, 
designed and erected by the sculptor Kiess. On the 
face of the rock are numerous inscriptions recording 
cures. A little farther on is the Dorotheen's Temple 
erected in 1791 in honour of Dorothee, Duchess of 
Curland. Before arriving at the bridge we take a 
path (Cd) up the hill to the left, and join another 
path leading along the brow of the hill. Taking 
this path to the left (Ce) we come to the Wiener 
Sitz, an eminence commanding a fine panoramic view 
of the town and valley. On this point there is an 
elegant temple, erected in 1840 by a subscription 
made among the Cur-guests. Several paths lead from 
the west side of the Wiener Sitz directly into the 
town. 

The path to the right, opposite the Dorotheen's 



WALKS. I 2 3 

Temple, leads to the Sauerbrunn drinking-hall and 
baths, and to the Schiueizerhof, a prettily situated 
restaurant, with a garden, commanding a fine view up 
the valley of the Tepel. From the Saurbrunn we can 
descend into the valley again by taking the path to 
the right, and crossing the river by the foot-bridge a 
short distance above the Karlsbriicke. 

TO THE SCHOXBKUXX. 

We follow the Kiesweg to the Karlsbriicke, and 
keeping along on the road leading to the Posthof for 
a short distance, we take a road to the left planted with 
trees, and crossing the Tepel by a foot-bridge, ascend 
the hill opposite, to the Restaurant Schoiibrunn. From 
here paths lead in all directions through the woods 
which overhang the right bank of the Tepel. From 
the Cafe the Sclnuindehveg follows the brow of the hill, 
passing the Augustcn's Platz, on which is a pyramid, 
erected in 1823 in honour of the Duchess of Cum- 
berland, finally arriving at the Kaiser Park (see p. 1 14). 
Some short distance (Cb 33) before arriving at the 
Kaiser Park a path descends to the right, crossing 
the river over a foot-bridge, reaching the Freundschaft- 
saal (see p. 115). 

TO THE VeITSBERG. 

We follow a path turning off from the Schwindelweg 
(see above), nearly opposite the Posthof (see p, 1 1 3), which 



124 WALKS. 

ascends the hill through beautifully wooded scenery to 
the summit of the Veitsberg. Descending on the other 
side, we leave on the right the village of Espenthor, 
and turning to the left again ascend, arrive at a 
most picturesque little glade, surrounded by beeches, 
from which we can return again to the Schwindelweg. 
This walk is one of the most beautiful in the neigh- 
bourhood of Carlsbad, with its lovely and ever-chang- 
ing views of the Tepel valley, and the open country on 
the other side towards Engelhaus. 

To the Kothe-Sauerlixg. 

Starting from the Andreasgasse, near the Andreas- 
Kirche, we take the road leading up the Galgenberg, 
passing a small monument erected to commemorate 
the exodus of the Protestant citizens of Carlsbad, who 
left the city in 1624, in consequence of the re-estab- 
lishment of the Catholic religion by Ferdinand II. 
Before reaching the Cemetery we find (at 8) a path, 
rather ill-defined, leading down to the main road to 
Giesshubl. From here we take another path to the 
left, which brings us to the Rothe-Sauerling, a small 
mineral spring. Near the bank of the Eger, a short 
distance down the river, is Eulenfels or Hexenfels, 
"Rock of the Owls or Witches," at which, according to 
a local tradition, the witches meet on Walpurgis night, 
and after having gone through their incantations ascend 
the Bloxberg on their brooms. Returning, we take 



WALKS. I 2 5 

the main Giesshiibl road, which brings us back to 
Carlsbad. 

To Dallwitz. 

TVe take the Saurbrunn Strasse, the main road to 
Giesshiibl, and come to the village of Drahowitz, 
where we cross the Eger in a small ferry-boat. Turn- 
ing to the right, we proceed along the bank of the 
river for about half an hour, when we come to a small 
brook, which we follow for about ten minutes, till we 
reach Dahcitz, celebrated for its magnificent oak-trees, 
some of which are so large that it requires five or six 
men with outstretched arms to encircle them. At the 
village there is a porcelain manufactory, specimens of 
which are exhibited in the small castle. Eefreshments 
can be had at the Eestaurant Zu Drei Uichen, " Three 
Oaks." The return journey can be made by taking 
the road up the hill, crossing the railway, and join- 
ing the main road leading to the railway station at 
Carlsbad. 



( 126 ) 




XL 

DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 

Hammer, Aich, and Hans Heiling-Fels. 
(For omnibus to Hammer and Aich, see page 78.) 

*[HE Hans Heiling-Fels can be reached either by 
the valley of the Eger or the valley of the 
Tepel, both roads joining at the village of 
Aich. The pleasantest way is to go by the valley of 
the Tepel and return by the Eger. 

Leaving Carlsbad, we drive along the Marienbad 
Strasse, crossing the Tepel at the Karlsbrlicke, and 
passing the Kaiser Park (see p. 114) reach the village of 
Pirkenhammer, celebrated for its wood-carving industry; 
it has also a large porcelain manufactory, over which 
visitors are shown. Behind the factory rises the Mec- 
seryhohe, from which there is a fine view of the Tepel 
valley. There are two good restaurants at Pirken- 
hammer, Leibold's and Habsburg. 

A short distance beyond Pirkenhammer we leave the 
Tepel, and cross over into the valley of the Eger, which 
we reach at the village of Aich. At Aich there is a 




HANS HEILING-FELS. 

Reproduced by permission of Amand Helm, Vienna. 



DRIVES ROUXD CARLSBAD, I 2 J 

little chateau with a cafe restaurant, and a porcelain 
manufactory with a speciality of photographs on china. 

From Aich it is about half an hour's walk to Hans 
Heiling-Fels. a picturesque group of rocks overhanging 
the Eger. A romantic legend is connected with these 
rocks, which forms the subject of the opera of Mar- 
schener and a novel by Kroner. 

Once upon a time there lived in a village in the valley 
of the Eger a wealthy farmer named Yeit, whose only 
daughter, Elsbeth, was famed far and wide for her beauty 
and accomplishments. Xear the farm, in a small hut, 
there lived an honest and industrious peasant, whose 
son Arnold was Elsbeth' s favourite playfellow. As the 
boy grew up he developed a restless disposition and 
a love of adventure, and finally left home to seek his 
fortune in foreign lands. After an absence of several 
years Arnold returned to his native village only just 
in time to close his aged parents' eyes in death, A few 
days afterwards he and Elsbeth met again, and bringing 
back the tender recollections of the happy childhood they 
had spent together, they renewed their former friend- 
ship, which soon ripened into love. After plighting 
their troth Arnold lost no time in seeking the father 
of Elsbeth and requesting her hand in marriage. Veit 
at first received him in a friendly manner, and listened 
with interest to the story of his adventures in foreign 
lands ; but as soon as Arnold touched on the subject 
nearest his heart the old man gave him a short and 
surly answer. At last, however, he promised that if 






12 8 ' DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 

Arnold succeeded in making his way in the world 
during the next three years he would then give his 
consent to the union of the lovers. After a tender 
parting, in which vows of eternal constancy were ex- 
changed, Arnold, with a heavy heart, set out once 
more to seek his fortune, promising that, rich or poor, 
he would return when the three years were past. 

Now, many years before this, one of the villagers, 
named Hans Heiling, had mysteriously disappeared, and 
nothing having been heard from him, he had long since 
been forgotten. About a year after the departure of 
Arnold, Hans suddenly returned, apparently a rich and 
prosperous man. He had, however, became proud and 
morose, and many strange stories began to be circulated 
among the villagers, who all began to look upon him 
with suspicion, with the exception of Veit, with whom, 
by flattery and judicious presents, he had succeeded in 
ingratiating himself. This influence he soon began to 
use to further his suit with Elsbeth, of whom he had 
become deeply enamoured. Elsbeth, however, remained 
true to her lover, and rejected his advances with scorn. 
Finding it impossible to win her hand by fair means, 
Hans Heiling brought the arts of magic to his aid ; but 
Elsbeth, who had received a friendly warning, constantly 
wore a small cross which her lover had given her round 
her neck as a talisman, and which was effectual in keep- 
ing her evil lover and his unwelcome attentions at a 
distance. 

One day, however, the charm was stolen from Elsbeth 



DRIVES ROUSD CARLSBAD. I 2 9 

through the cunning of Hans, who became daily more 
importunate. By this time the three years of pro- 
bation had nearly elapsed, and, nothing having been 
heard of Arnold, doubts of his fidelity began to creep 
into Elspeth's bosom. Worn out by the importunities 
of Heiling and the menaces of her father, the unhappy 
girl at last reluctantly gave her consent to the hated 
union, and the date of the marriage was fixed. 

Three days now only remained of the three years, 
and as they slowly passed Elspeth began to waver 
and to bitterly repent the promise she had given. She 
still clung desperately to the fond hope that her young 
lover might even yet return in time to save her. 

The morning of the last day arrived. The wedding 
with Heiling was to take place on the following clay, 
and Elspeth had already given herself up as lost, when 
there suddenly came galloping into the village a troup 
of horsemen with Arnold at their head. Eiding 
straight to the house of Elspeth's father, and hastily 
informing him that during his absence he had succeeded 
in obtaining rank and fortune, he demanded of him the 
fulfilment of his promise. At the same time some of 
Arnold's followers recognised in Hans Heiling a well- 
known sorcerer. Yeit, on hearing this, and on seeing 
the good fortune of Arnold, now readily gave his consent 
to the union of the true lovers, who were shortly after- 
wards united. 

After the wedding the happy couple, accompanied by 
their friends, adjourned to a meadow on the banks of the 

i 






I30 DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 

Eger, where Veit had a tent erected and a supper pre- 
pared. The evening passed quickly in merriment till it 
was close upon midnight ; but just as the last stroke of 
the church clock struck twelve a terrible storm of wind 
and rain suddenly burst on the affrighted company, and 
amid the darkness appeared the form of Hans Heiling, 
surrounded by a legion of devils and imps, his face fright- 
fully distorted and flaming with passion. He suddenly 
plunged into the foaming depths of the river and dis- 
appeared ; but the wedding company remained rooted to 
the spot, having been all changed by the power of the 
devil into stone ; and still from the river-bank they 
are said to look down with melancholy countenances on 
the passers-by. 

Returning from Aich we follow the right bank of 
the river Eger, passing the villages of Meiershofen and 
Donitz to Carlsbad. 

To Engelhaus. 

The drive to Engelhaus takes about two hours there 
and back. From Carlsbad we follow the Prager Strasse, 
the old coach-road to Prague, having fine views of 
Carlsbad and the Tepel valley. The Prager Strasse 
was constructed by the Emperor Francis I. in 1804, 
and on the portion between Carlsbad and Engelhaus 
shows great engineering skill. About half-way we pass 
on the right at the village of Berghauser an ancient 
inn, the Bergwirthshaus, erected about the thirteenth 
centurv. Some of the walls are from 10 to 12 feet thick. 



DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. I 3 I 

At Engelhaus there is a small inn where refreshments 
can be had. 

The ruins of the Castle of Engelhaus, of which now 
but a few crumbling fragments remain, occupy the 
summit of an isolated and precipitous rock 468 feet in 
height, which is ascended by a dilapidated stone stair- 
case from behind the church. The date of the build- 
ing of the castle is lost in obscurity, but mention of 
it is made in records of the ' twelfth and thirteenth 
centuries. 

Many interesting legends are told about this castle, 
among which the most prominent are the legend of 
King Arthur and the legend of Aloisia. 

King Arthur one day while hunting in England was 
attracted by the screams of an infant. On approaching 
the spot he found a handsome baby boy in the claws of a 
bear, which had already devoured the infant's mother. 
The kino: killed the savage beast, took the child home 
with him, and adopted him as his son, having him bap- 
tized Richard. The boy grew up brave and handsome, 
and in time fell secretly in love with the king s daugh- 
ter, Albina, who returned his affection. Fearing the 
king would forbid their union they arranged to elope, 
and one dark night, accompanied by a few devoted fol- 
lowers, fled from the royal castle. On their arrival at 
the sea-shore they found a ship awaiting them, in which 
they crossed to the coast of France, and finally, after 
many wanderings, reached the mountains of Bohemia in 
the vicinity of Engelhaus. Here, on the rock on which 



132 DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 

the ruins now stand, Richard erected a strong fortress, 
in which he and his wife lived in seclusion for manv 
years. 

Their marriage was blessed with many children ; but 
their happiness was not complete, as Albina often re- 
proached herself for her undutiful conduct towards her 
father. Richard also, in time, began to tire of his wife, 
whose beauty had begun to fade, and of the monotonous 
life they led. He also regretted having thrown away 
his chances of advancement at the English court, and 
as time wore on mutual reproaches followed. 

Meanwhile King Arthur, who had mourned the loss 
of his daughter for many years, abdicated in favour of 
his nephew, and determined to spend the rest of his 
life in searching for her. He first sought the advice 
of an Arabian astrologer, who, by his magic arts, 
ascertained the hiding-place of the errant couple. 
Disguised in the garb of a pilgrim, and attended 
only by a few faithful knights, the king travelled 
through Germany and Bohemia until he reached a 
small village in the neighbourhood of Engelhaus, where 
he left his attendants and proceeded to the castle, to 
which, in his assumed character of a pilgrim, he soon 
obtained admission. On hearing him speak English, 
however, Richard began to suspect he might be a 
spy sent by the king, and refused him permission 
to see his wife, threatening at the same time, if he 
discovered his suspicions were true, to put him in a 
cauldron of boiling oil. The old king on hearing this 



DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. I 33 

left the castle and sought the assistance of a neigh- 
bouring knight, to whom he told his sad story. The 
knight in return informed him how Eichard had begun 
to neglect his wife, and how unhappy she had become, 
and at the same time proffered his services to try to 
capture the castle and release Albina. 

News of the intended attack was brought to 
Richard, who, in revenge, resolved to poison his wife 
and flee from the country. To carry out his vil- 
lainous scheme he went to Albina, and pretending to 
have repented of his former ill-usage, proposed that 
they should pledge their reconciliation in a goblet of 
wine, and should then go together and seek the pardon 
of King Arthur. Two goblets of wine, one of which 
had been poisoned, were brought in. Handing the 
deadly draught to his wife, and taking the other him- 
self, they were just about to drink the pledge when a 
flourish of trumpets outside proclaimed the approach 
of the attacking army. Albina and Eichard, eager to see 
the old king and his followers, though from very different 
motives, put down their glasses untasted ; but Eichard, 
who now recognised the king, anxious to complete his 
treacherous design before the arrival of the besiegers, 
again took up the goblets, and handing one to his wife 
they both drank them off, and then Eichard instantly 
made his escape. Albina rushed to meet her father, and 
throwing herself at his feet implored his pardon, which 
was only too gladly granted. He had hardly raised her 
from the ground when a knight rushed in, bringing the 



134 DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 

news that Richard had been found in the castle-yard 
expiring in mortal agony. In his haste he had un- 
wittingly changed the glasses and drunk the fatal 
draught himself. After the burial of Richard, Albina 
returned to England, and the castle, which was after- 
wards haunted by the ghost of the would-be murderer, 
remained uninhabited for many centuries. 

Another romantic legend is that of Aloisia. 

Othon Sigismond, Count of Wratibor von Starkowitz- 
Schwarzstein, a Bohemian nobleman, who fought on 
the side of the French at the battle of Crecy in A.D. 
1346, was dangerously wounded and taken prisoner 
by the English, but was afterwards released on paying 
a heavy ransom. During his captivity in England he 
wooed and married Aloisia, the beautiful Duchess of 
Westmoreland, grand-daughter of Edward I. After his 
ransom he brought her to his castle of Schwarzstein 
as Engelhaus was then called. For four years she 
lived a life of unalloyed happiness with her beloved 
husband, but soon after the birth of their son and heir, 
Sigismond was called on to join the standard of his 
liege lord the Emperor Charles IV. in an expedition 
to quell a rebellion which had broken out among the 
cities of Northern Italy. 

Before he left he committed the care of his wife and 
son, and the management of his estates to his friend 
Count Wlanitz, who had been his fellow-prisoner in 
England. During their joint captivity there, Wlanitz 
had also been in love with Aloisia, and, though un- 



DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. I 3 5 

known to Sigismond, had tried to gain her hand. As 
long as Sigismond had remained to protect his wife 
Wlanitz had kept his passion under due control, but 
no sooner did he find her alone and in his power 
than he renewed his protestations of love. The Coun- 
tess, faithful to her husband, rejected his advances with 
scorn, till, maddened by his passion, Wlanitz deter- 
mined on a bitter revenge. Intercepting the letters 
the Countess wrote to her husband, he sent messengers 
instead to the Count informing him that, in his absence, 
his wife was leading a life of gaiety and dissipation. 
Deeply wounded by his wife's continued silence, the 
confidence of her husband was at last undermined. 

Finally Wlanitz sent word that the Countess had 
become so shameless in her conduct that she remained 
away from home for several days at a time, and that 
her child had at last died of neglect. Maddened by 
anger and jealousy, Count Sigismond left the Emperor's 
camp and travelled night and day until he reached 
the castle. Aloisia was praying in her oratory by 
an open casement overhanging the precipice, when 
Sigismond suddenly entered. Startled by the expres- 
sion on his face, the thought flashed across her mind 
that her husband had lost his reason, and she stood 
motionless before him, struck with grief and horror. 
Mistaking her emotion for guilt, he seized her and 
threw her from the casement over the precipice. 
Sigismond then fainted and fell on the floor of the 
chapel, where for hours he lay in a stupor. 



T36 DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 

When night came lie was suddenly aroused by hea- 
venly harmonies floating through the air outside. 
Looking through the casement he beheld a beautiful 
angel floating over the valley, supporting in its arms 
the forms of his dead wife and child. As the heavenly 
form passed the window, Sigismond heard a voice say- 
ing, " I am a messenger sent from heaven to lead the 
soul of your sainted wife to the realms of eternal bliss. 
As you have been betrayed, God in his mercy may for- 
give you, but He demands the punishment of the traitor 
by whom you have been deceived." On recovering 
from the trance Sigismond called his followers to- 
gether, who, seizing Wlanitz, carried him to the top 
of the castle, and meted out to him a just retribution by 
flinging him from the window of the chapel. Sigis- 
mond then seized a torch and set fire to his castle, 
which was soon reduced to a few blackened walls. At 
daybreak he descended to the village, and putting on 
the garb of a pilgrim he set out on foot for Rome to 
obtain pardon of the Pope. On his arrival absolution 
was granted him by the Holy Father ; but, worn out 
by the privations he had endured on his journey, he 
sought refuge in a monastery, where he died shortly 
afterwards. 

The village of Engelhaus suffered greatly from a fire 
in 1885, which destroyed the church and about half 
the houses in the village. 



DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. I 37 

To Elbogen. 

Elbogen is from I J to l| hour's walk from Carlsbad 
along the valley of the Eger. It can also be reached by 
rail, a short branch line connecting the village with the 
main line to Eger, at the station of Elbogen NeustatteL 
The town, which has a population of about 3000, is 
picturesquely situated on a rocky peninsula almost sur- 
rounded by the Eger, from which the town takes its 
name of Elbogen or " Elbow." Visitors can obtain fair 
accommodation at the Hotel Zum "Weissen Boss, in the 
market-place, which has a garden and pavilion from 
which there is a lovely view of the Eger valley, or at 
the Hotel Scherbaum, near the suspension-bridge. In 
returning pedestrians can follow the course of the Eger 
to Hansheilingfels, and hare a carriage to meet them at 
Aich (see. p. 126). 

The Castle of Elbogen, situated above the village, on 
a steep granite rock, was founded by the Margraves 
von Yoburg in 870. In 1149 the castle became the 
property of the German Emperor. Frederick Barbarcssa, 
who received it as a dowry on his marriage with Adel- 
heid, daughter of the Margrave Diebold von Vohburg. 
In 1434 it came into the possession of the family 
of tbe Burgraves Schlick, to whom it belonged for 
several centuries. In 1725 the castle, along with the 
town, was almost entirely destroyed by fire, but was 
afterwards restored. In July 1742 the town and for- 



I38 DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 

tress were besieged by the French under General 
Armitieres. The garrison held out for four months, 
but were at last compelled to surrender through starva- 
tion. 

From its foundation up to the fourteenth century- 
nothing is known of the history of the castle, as all the 
records up to that period were destroyed by fire. In 13 17 
King John of Luxembourg took up his residence for a 
short time at the castle, accompanied by his wife and 
infant son, afterwards the Emperor Charles IV. In 
j 352 Charles IV. granted the citizens of Elbogen a 
charter, freeing the town from all taxes, under the con- 
dition, that whenever he or any of his heirs should visit 
the town, they should be presented with five pounds of 
Swabian silver farthings, which were to be handed by 
the Burgomaster to the sovereign in a wooden beaker. 
This beaker is still preserved in the Eathhaus, where it 
may be seen, filled with silver farthings, awaiting the 
next visit of an Austrian monarch. It was during the 
visit of the Emperor Charles IV. in 1358 to the Castle 
of Elbogen that he made his famous hunting expedition 
to Carlsbad. 

During the progress of the Elector Frederick V. 
and his consort the Princess Elizabeth, daughter of 
James I. of England, from Heidelberg to Prague to 
assume the crown of Bohemia, they rested for a night 
at the Castle of Elbogen, and were magnificently enter- 
tained by the Burgrave Schlick at an open-air banquet. 



DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. I 39 

The festivities, however, must have been of a somewhat 
sober kind, as we are told that after the banquet the 
Protestant chaplain of the Burgrave preached a sermon 
of two hours in length to their Majesties on the duties 
of their high position. The castle is now used as a 
prison. 

The Eger at Elbogen is crossed by a fine suspension- 
bridge, erected 1833-36 at a cost of 90,000 florins. 
From the bridge there is a fine view of the river and 
valley, with the castle above. 

In the Ratliliaus is part of a large meteoric stone 
which fell at Elbogen, the remaining portion of 
which weighing no pounds, is in the mineralogical 
museum at Vienna. A model of the stone in its ori- 
ginal condition is also to be seen. The stone is locally 
known as the Verviinschtc Graf, or " Accursed Count," 
from the legend that one of the Burg-raves of Elbogen 
had so oppressed the people that they had him cursed 
with bell, book, and candle. One day shortly after- 
wards, as he was compelling some of his vassals to 
undertake some enforced labour, he was struck by a 
flash of lightning out of a clear sky, and turned into 
this shapeless mass of stone. In the Rathhaus is also 
the wooden beaker referred to above. 

In the Deckajial, or St. Wencelaus Kirche, erected in 
the thirteenth century, and restored after the fire of 
1725, is a fine altar-piece by Peter Brandel, repre- 
senting the murder of St. Wencelaus by his brother 



I4O DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 

Boleslaus I. before the altar in the Church of Alt 
Bunzlau in 936. 

A speciality of Elbogen is the " Elbogener pumper- 
nickel/' a kind of gingerbread with a sugar coating. 
Elbogen has an important porcelain manufactory, over 
which visitors are shown on application to the office. 

To GlESSHUBL PUCHSTEIN. 

This is one of the most favourite excursions in the 
vicinity of Carlsbad. Omnibuses run twice daily. (See 
page 79.) The drive, which takes about an hour and a 
half, follows the right bank of the Eger through most 
picturesque scenery. 

Giesshiibl, which is rapidly becoming a fashionable 
watering-place, is beautifully situated on the right 
bank of the Eger, at the foot of the Buchberg, a rocky 
and pine-clad hill. The environs are laid out with 
shady and well-kept paths, and each year the pro- 
prietor, Herr Mattoni, adds some new attraction to the 
place. The general arrangements for the convenience 
of guests are under the charge of a Cur-committee, who 
will furnish all information, and, if desired, engage 
rooms in advance for intending visitors. The number 
of visitors in 1885 was 18,000. The climate resembles 
that of Carlsbad. 

The springs of Giesshiibl have been known for cen- 
turies, and were resorted to by the hunters and moun- 



DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. I41 

taineers in the neighbourhood; but it was only in 
1852 that the first spring was enclosed and dedicated 
to his Majesty Otho, the late King of Greece, who was 
among the first to visit it. The place, however, owes 
its rise into prominence to Herr Mattoni, who leased 
the springs from the proprietor, Baron Neuberg, in 
1867, and purchased the Otto Quelle in 1872. Besides 
conferring a benefit on the public by improving and 
beautifying this attractive watering - place and its 
surroundings, he has been eminently successful in a 
financial way, as the export of Giesshubler water, bottled 
at the springs, has reached the enormous quantity of 
4,000,000 bottles per annum. 

The principal building is the Curhaus, a handsome 
stone erection surrounded by gardens and pleasure- 
grounds. It contains a conversation-room, reading- 
room, library, and sleeping apartments. Attached 
to the Curhaus are two ' dependances' Near the Cur- 
haus is a Colonnade, decorated with a bust of King 
Otho. The waters of the springs are conducted in 
pipes both to the Curhaus and to the Colonnade. Op- 
posite the Colonnade is a handsome restaurant with a 
verandah. On the hill a short distance above Gies- 
shiibl is the handsome residence of the proprietor, Herr 
Mattoni. 

The springs are the Otto Quelle, or Giesshubler Sauer- 
brunn, Elizabeth Quelle, Franz Josef Quelle, and the 
Loschner Quelle, which have nearly all the same pro- 



142 



DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 



perties. The following is the analysis of the Otto 
Quelle : — 

In 10,000 parts of water — 



Silica 


. 


0.594I 


Chloride of potassium 


0.3038 


Sulphate ,, 


?J 


0.3397 


Carbonate „ 


3? 


O.8240. 


?3 J? 


sodium 


8-4308 


J? ?J 


lithium . 


0.0650 


?? ?3 


strontium 


O.0230 


J? 5? 


magnesia . 


1 .4004 


>) J3 


lime 


. 2.3878 


Oxide of alumina . 


0.0290 


Oxide of iron 


. 


0.0263 


„ „ manganese 


0.0099 


Organic substances 


0.0198 


Carbonic acid 


in combination 


5.6004 


5? ?? 


free 


23.7396 



43.7936 



The waters of Giesshlibl are highly charged with 
carbonic acid gas and are slightly acidulated. They 
are admirably suited for mixing with wines and spirits, 
especially with the poorer classes of Austrian and Ger- 
man white wines, as they have the property of almost 
entirely destroying the acid which is characteristic of 
these vintages. It is also largely used by itself as a 



DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 1 43 

table water. Its effervescence is purely natural, and is 
therefore free from the injurious results which frequently 
attend the use of waters which are artificially charged 
with gas. Giesshiibler water has been found to be ex- 
tremely efficacious in catarrhal affections of the stomach 
and intestines, jaundice, dyspepsia, and all other com- 
plaints caused by a surplus of acid in the system. It 
has also been found particularly beneficial in cases of 
catarrhal affection of the respiratory organs. Mixed 
with warm milk or whey it has a stimulating action on 
diminished mucous secretion, and at the same time is 
invigorating and nourishing. In connection with the 
springs a whey cure has been established. 

The spring principally used is the Otto Quelle, which 
is situated on the face of the hill immediately above the 
Curhaus. Over the spring is a Colonnade supported on 
fourteen granite pillars, which was inaugurated by King 
Otho of Greece in 1853. I n the Colonnade is a bust of 
the King, with an inscription commemorating the event. 
At the spring a new bath-house has lately been erected. 
The bottling of the waters takes place at this spring, 
a small railway connecting the bottling establishment 
with the export warehouse below. 

The walks around Giesshiibl are charming in their 
picturesqueness and variety and almost numberless in 
extent. Well-kept paths have been opened up by the 
Cur-direction to almost every point of view on the 
surrounding hills, and on these points little temples, 
gloriettas and resting-places have been erected, whilst, 



144 DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 

for feebler visitors, level walks and drives extend both 
up and down the valley of the Eger. 

To Petschau. 

The village of Petschau, lying about half-way between 
Carlsbad and Marienbad (2J hours' drive), is pictur- 
esquely situated overlooking the beautiful valley of the 
Tepel. In medigeval times the village was of consider- 
able importance, but in 1760 it was almost entirely 
burned down, and, with the exception of the castle, 
most of the buildings are now comparatively modern. 

The castle, which was erected not later than the 
eleventh century (as records exist referring to its 
having been inhabited in 1061), occupies the summit 
of an eminence overlooking the Tepel. On three sides 
it is fortified by a wall, and is entered on the south 
side by a stone bridge, which crosses the old moat, now 
laid out in gardens. Several of the walls of the castle 
are of immense thickness. On the left, as we enter, is 
the ancient round watch-tower, the upper storeys of 
which were removed in 1623. On the summit of the 
tower is a platform commanding an extensive pano- 
ramic view of the surrounding country. In the interior 
are a number of large and handsomely decorated apart- 
ments, and in the south tower is a Gothic chapel 
erected in A.D. 1400, the walls of which are decorated 
with fine frescoes. The view from the windows of the 
chapel over the valley of the Tepel is exceedingly fine, 
The castle is still occupied as a residence. 



DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 1 45 

Visitors are shown over the castle during the absence 
of the family. 

TO SCHLAGGEXWALD. 

The shortest road to the village of Schlaggenwald, 
passes through Pirkenhaniiner (see page 126), about 1 J 
mile beyond which we take the road to Marienbad, and 
turning off to the left and following the valley of the 
Tepelj reach Schlaggenwald in about ij hour. The 
village, which is prettily situated, has a porcelain manu- 
factory and a tin and silver mine, which was formerly 
very productive, but which now hardly pays the expense 
of working. The parish church is decorated with 
frescoes executed in 1771 by Dollkopf, who resided for 
some time at Schlaggenwald. In the Deckanal Kirche 
is a fine carved altar-piece and a number of tombs 
of the fourteenth century. Refreshments can be had 
at the Gasthof zur Krone. Returning we can drive 
through the picturesque valley of the Zeche, which 
joins the Eger at Elbogen (see page 137). The drive 
by Elbogen takes about 2\ hours. 

TO SCHLACKEXWERTH AND HAUEXSTEIX. 

Schlackenwertk can be reached direct by rail, and 
Hauenstein from the railway station at Hauenstein- 
VTaarte, from which it is about kalf-an-hour's drive. 
Carriages are generally found in waiting at Hauenstein- 
AVaarte. The drive from Carlsbad to Schlackenwertk 

K 



I46 DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 

takes about if hour, and to Hauenstein about 2 J 
hours, the road passing through exceedingly pictur- 
esque scenery. 

Schlackenwerth is an old town with a chateau of the 
Duke of Tuscany, surrounded by a fine park on which 
is a pavilion with a restaurant. The village has two 
inns — the Eenthaus and Adler. 

At Hauenstein there is also a small inn, at which 
visitors can dine, as well as at the restaurant at 
Hauenstein- Waarte. On the JSichelberg, three-quarters 
of an hour's walk from the village, is the fine modern 
chateau of Count J. Buquoi, built in old castellated 
style. Attached to the chateau is a beautiful chapel. 
Surrounding the chateau and extending over the hill 
is a magnificent park, intersected by romantic and 
shady walks. Visitors are not now allowed in the 
park except by special permission. The summit of the 
Eichelberg commands one of the most magnificent and 
extensive views in Germany. In the foreground are 
the ruined castles of Engelhaus, Himmelstein, Schon- 
burg, and Hauenstein, and below us the fertile valley 
of the Eger, while in the distance extends the range 
of the Fichtelbirgen. Of the old castle of Hauen- 
stein only a tower and a fragment of one of the walls 
remain. In the sixteenth century this old castle was 
the residence of the Burgrave Heronimus Schlick (see 
page 34). In the tower the visitor is shown a room in 
which, during the Thirty Years' War, a Swedish officer 
was assassinated. The Himmelstein, which also com- 



DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. I 47 

mands a lovely view, can be ascended either from 
Hauenstein or Hauenstein-Waarte. 

Pedestrians can return from Hauenstein through 
Welchau, Rodisfort, and G-icsshubl-Puclistcin . 

Welchau is a little village prettily situated on the 
Eger, with a chateau surrounded by a park in which 
there are pleasant walks and fine views over the valley. 
There is a good restaurant, Zur Zinde. in the village. 
About one mile beyond Welchau is the village of 

Rodisfort, at which there is also a restaurant. Above 
the village is the Rodisfortcrocrg, on the summit of 
which formerly stood a castle. A legend tells us that 
in this castle there lived a knight named Rode, who 
was a jovial soul, but always in debt. The patience of 
his creditors at last becoming exhausted, they proceeded 
to the castle and swore to hang him over the walls if 
he did not pay his debts within an hour. The knight 
having nothing to pay. and having too small a garrison 
to withstand the siege, did as a good many of the needy 
fraternity have done since, — he quietly mounted his 
horse, and leaving the castle by a secret door, made off 
as fast as he could. Impatient of waiting, his creditors 
at last broke into the castle, and on inquiring from 
his vassals where their master was, received the short 
answer. Rode ist fort — Rode is off — from which the 
castle and village were afterwards called Rodisfort. 
About half-way up the mountain there is a cave, in 
which, even in the middle of summer, large icicles are 
to be seen on the vaulted roof, which show a most charm- 



I48 DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 

ing prismatic colour glancing in the sunbeams which find 
their way from the entrance. Giesshiibl-Puchstein (see 
page 140) is about i| mile beyond Rodisfort. 

Falkenau. 

Falkenau is about a half-an-hours journey by rail on 
the line to Eger, and two and a half hours' drive from 
Carlsbad. The carriage road passes through Elbogen 
(see page 137) and the village of AUsattel, near which 
are the large vitriol, sulphur, and alum works of Herr 
von Stark. About two miles beyond Altsattel we notice 
on the bank of the Eger the remains of a landslide which 
took place in 1832, and which uncovered two extinct 
volcanoes and partly changed the course of the river. 

Falkenau, famous for its hops and its beer, is a busy 
village of 2500 inhabitants, almost all of whom are 
employed in the cultivation of the hops and in its 
large breweries. Beyond its picturesque situation in a 
hilly but fertile district, its only interest to visitors is 
the fine castle of Count Nostiz-Rhieneck, which is sur- 
rounded by a beautiful park, intersected with lovely 
walks and drives, and planted with old trees, flowering 
shrubs, and exotic plants. The castle, which is shown 
to visitors, contains a fine collection of ancient armour. 
The best inn is the " Anker." 

JOACHIMSTHAL AND THE SONNENWIRBEL, OR KEILBERG. 

Joachimsthal, a town of 5500 inhabitants, lies 5 J 
miles north of Schlackenwerth (see page 146), the road 



DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. I 49 

passing through the beautiful valley of the Wistritz. 
The town was formerly celebrated for its silver-mines, 
which, although now but little worked, were very pro- 
ductive in the Middle Ages, when they gave employment 
to over 9000 people. These mines were among the 
earliest industries of Bohemia. For several centuries 
after their discovery they were only occasionally rudely 
mined by the peasants and mountaineers. In 15 13 
they attracted the notice of the Burgrave, Stephan 
Schlick, of Carlsbad, who, with the aid of several 
neighbouring landowners, commenced to work them 
on a large scale, when they soon became exceedingly 
productive, yielding between 1516 and 1545 about 
;£ 1, 2 50,000, an enormous sum at that time. As a 
German writer naively remarks, " There being no 
Stock Exchange speculations or State lotteries in those 
days, this was a very nice way of getting money." 

Stephan Schlick in 15 19 erected a mint here, where 
he coined the first " Thalers," the name of the coin 
being a contraction of " Joachimsthaler." These coins 
had on one side the heads of St. Joachim, and on the 
other those of King Ludwig of Saxony and the Bur- 
grave Schlick. This old mint is now used as the 
offices of the mine. 

In 1 5 20 Schlick built the castle of Fremdenstein am 
Berg, near the town, of which only a few scanty ruins 
remain. 

The principal industries of the town are the manu- 
facture of bobbin-lace, woollen yarn, plaited straw, and 



I 5 O DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. 

gloves. In the centre of the town is the inn "Zum 
Stadt Dresden/' where visitors can dine well and 
cheaply. 

About one hour beyond Joachimsthal we come to the 
village of Gottesgab (3300 feet — inn, Griines Hans), the 
highest village in Austria, from which we can ascend 
the Sonnenwirbel or Keilberg, 4080 feet, the highest 
point of the Erzgebirge. A carriage road leads to the 
summit, which commands a magnificent and extensive 
panoramic view. A tower has been erected on the 
highest point. 

To the north, across the frontier, is the Fichtelberg 
(3985 feet), the highest peak in Saxony. The ascent 
of the Fichtelberg can be made in about three-quarters 
of an hour from the village of Ober-Wiesenthal, 2\ miles 
beyond Gottesgab. The summit, on which is a stone 
tower, commands a most magnificent view, and was 
formerly an important station in the trigonometrical 
survey of Central Europe. This excursion requires a 
long day. 

TO KUPFERBERG. 

This is one of the pleasantest excursions from 
Carlsbad. "We take the rail to Schlackenwerth, and 
thence drive past Joachimsthal (see page 148), Got- 
tesgab (see above), and the pretty village of Ober- 
hals to Kupferberg, a station on the line from Ko- 
matau to Chemitz, where the line reaches its highest 
point, 2830 feet. The drive takes about four hours. 



DRIVES ROUND CARLSBAD. I 5 I 

The view from the little chapel on the summit of the 
Kupferberg is one of the finest in Austria, and even 
more extensive than that from the Sonnenwirbel, on a 
clear day the white hill above Prague and the Drei- 
Kreuz-Berg above Carlsbad being visible. The return 
journey can be made by rail 

To Fischern, Altrohlau, and Neudeck. 

From Carlsbad we take the road crossing the Eger 
by the Franz Josefs Bridge, and at the station turn to 
the left, passing through the villages of Fischem and 
Altrohlau, both with china manufactories, to Neudeck, 
3 \ hours distant from Carsbad, on the river Bohlau, a 
busy village, with woollen-mills and tin-factories, and 
tin and iron mines. Near the village is the handsome 
new chateau of Count Asseburg, surrounded by a 
large park. About a quarter of a mile south of the 
town are the ruins of an ancient castle, formerly one 
of the seats of the Barons Schlick. Above the town 
is the Kreuzberg, on the summit of which is a monas- 
tery; on the ascent, which winds in zig-zags up the 
hill, is a Calvary with fourteen stone stations of the 
cross. The hill was purchased by a maiden lady, who 
expended 27,000 florins in constructing the road and 
stations, and presented it as a votive offering to the 
Church. The summit of the hill commands a charm- 
ing view over the town and surrounding country. 



( 152 



XII. 

LONGER EXCURSIONS BY RAIL. 

To Eger asd Maktenbad. 

SEf^ARIEXBAD, though only nineteen miles 
™5B southward from Carlsbad in a direct line, is 
**s>"'k** about two hours by rail. 

An exceedingly pleasant excursion can be made by 
driving from Carlsbad to Marienbad (about five hours) 
in a two-horse carriage, and thence returning by rail 
to Eger. 

About an hour after leaving Carlsbad by rail we 
reach Eger (hotels, Wenzel, opposite the station, Erzher- 
zogstephan, in the town), an ancient town with 16.500 
inhabitants, situated on the river Eger. It was formerly 
a free imperial city, and was fortified in 1809. In the 
Rathhaus in the " Ring" the celebrated general, Albert 
von Wallenstein, the leader of the Imperialists in the 
Thirty Years 1 War, was assassinated by an Irishman 
named Devereux on 25th February 1634. In the rooms 
in the upper storey, which were those occupied by 
Wallenstein before his death, there is a museum con- 



LOXGEK EXCURSIONS BY RAH ::; 

taining a collection of curiosities and antiquities, among 
which are the sword, the writing-table, and other me- 
mentoes of the great general, and the halberd with which 

as assassinated. Li the museum are also a portrait 
; : Wallenstein and pictures representing his assassina- 
tion, and the murder of his officers, Dlo, Terozky, Kin 
and Xeumann. In the Council Chambers are portraits 
of the emperors from Leopold I. 

Occupying a commanding position on a rock above 
the river to the north- st of the town are the ruins of 
the Imperial Castle, erected by the Emperor Frederick 
Barbarossa in 1 180, and for several centuries afterwards 
often occupied by the German emperors. The Castle of 

arossa was built on the site of a still older fortress, 
of which the lofty square towers built of blocks of lava, 
still standing, formed a portion. In the banqueting- 
room, which adjoins the chapel, the officers of Wallen- 
assassinated a few hours previous to the 
murder of their general. Since the perpetration of this 
foul deed the castle has never been inhabited. The ter- 

above the river commands a fine panoramic view 
over the town and surrounding country. In the distance 

:he tin srs of the Mavia-Kidm, an ancient 

pilgrimage church, for a long time a haunt of robbers, 
the bones of whose victims are shown in the chapel. 

e n miles beyond Eger we pass the small for- 

pa of Konigsicart, 2250 feet above the level 

of the sea. The springs, which are chalybeate, are the 

, and are used both for drinking and 



I 5 4 LONGER EXCURSIONS BY RAIL. 

bathing. They are recommended in cases of anaemia 
and incipient consumption. A Curhaus and villas for 
the reception of visitors have recently been erected. 

At Konigswart is the chateau of Prince Metternich, 
which has been in possession of the family since 1618. 
The chateau, which is surrounded by beautifully laid 
out gardens and pleasure-grounds, contains a collection 
of coins, minerals, and antiquities, and a gallery of 
family and historical portraits. 

The next station is Marienhad. The station is two 
miles from the town itself. One-horse carriage, I fl. ; 
two horses, I fl. 80 kr. Omnibus, 40 kr. The best 
hotels at Marienbad are, " Klinger s," " Neptune," 
" Hotel Casino," and " Stadt Hamburg." There are 
also a number of good boarding and lodging houses. 
The most frequented cafes are the Bellevue, Panorama, 
Victoria, Miramonte, and Ferdinand's Muhle. Excellent 
meals and good beer can be had at the Delphin Restau- 
rant. English Church service in the season in the 
English church erected in 1879, and Presbyterian ser- 
vice in a German Protestant church. 

Marienbad is situated in a picturesque valley, about 
2000 feet above the level of the sea, above which on 
three sides rise pine- clad hills. The village is almost 
entirely modern, having been built since the beginning 
of the present century. The principal buildings are the 
Stadthaus, which contains reading and recreation rooms, 
a large hall used for balls and concerts and other 
public gatherings, the large military Curhaus erected 



LONGER EXCURSIONS BY RAIL. I 5 5 

in 1880, and Roman Catholic, German Protestant, and 
English churches. 

The springs were first brought into public notice in 
1870 by the Abbot of the Convent of Tepel. The 
waters are of much the same character as those of 
Carlsbad, except that they are of a much lower tem- 
perature, ranging from 43 to 50 Fahr., but for bathing 
they are warmed up to 90°. There are six springs, 
of which the most used is the Kreuzbrunn, which is 
a mile distant from the village, the water being con- 
ducted in pipes to the Promenade Platz. There are two 
large bathing-houses, the Alte and the Neue Badhaus, 
in which are mineral, peat, carbonic acid, and vapour 
baths. The Marienbad waters, however, are principally 
used for drinking. The peat found round Marienbad is 
exceedingly rich in mineral constituents, each cubic 
foot containing no less than one pound of sulphate of 
iron. One million bottles of the water from the Kreuz- 
brunn are annually exported to all parts of the world. 

Adjoining the Kreuzbrunn is a beautiful shady avenue 
300 yards long, where the visitors promenade from six to 
eight in the morning while drinking the waters. Close 
to the spring there is a large brick building, which is 
used for promenading when the weather is unfavourable. 
Adjoining this covered promenade is the Bazaar, a 
double row of shops where Bohemian goods and other 
speciality are sold. 

The most abundant of the Marienbad springs is the 
Ferdinands Brunnen, which is about half a mile distant 



I 5 6 LONGER EXCURSIONS BY RAIL. 

from the village. The water is carried by pipes to the 
Promenade Platz, where it flows into a vase of alabaster. 
The spring which is used for bathing is the Marien- 
quelle ; it is highly charged with carbonic acid gas, 
which keeps the surface of the water in perpetual 
motion. The quantity of this gas is so great that a 
light lowered to the surface of the water is immediately 
extinguished. Gas-baths have been erected at this 
spring, in which patients are shut up in a box, all 
except the head, the box being so constructed that 
the gas is not breathed. 

The principal place of resort at Marienbad in fine 
weather is the Citrgarten, a prettily laid out pleasure- 
ground with lawns and parterres, and intersected with 
pleasant shady walks. Concerts are given in the 
Promenade Platz from 6 to 7.30 a.m. and from 6 to 7 
P.M., and at the Waldquelle from 11.30 A.M. to 12.30 
P.M. The season begins about 1st May and lasts till 
the middle of September. 

Marienbad is an exceedingly fashionable spa, and 
the hotels and boarding-houses are crowded in summer. 
Rooms should therefore be applied for in advance, in 
the height of the season. Like Carlsbad, Marienbad 
is specially attractive from the beauty of its environs, 
shady walks having been laid out in all directions 
through the woods and to the best points of view on 
the hills. The most frequented walk is to the cross on 
the Hamelikaberg, which commands a beautiful view of 
the valley. Another favourite walk is to the Mecsdry 



LONGER EXCURSIONS BY RAIL. I 5 7 

Temple, from which there is also a charming and open 
prospect to the north. The most extensive view, which, 
however, does not embrace the TYald itself, is to be had 
from the Hohendorferhohe. A delightful excursion can 
be made to the Podhorn (2750 feet), a mountain of 
basalt lying to the east, ij hour distant from the 
village. The summit of the mountain commands a 
most extensive view of the Erzgebirge, Fichtelbirge, 
and the Bohemian forest. A longer, but also a most 
charming excursion can be made to the wealthy Abbey 
of Tepel, to which the spring at Marienbad belongs. 
The Abbey, which lies nine miles east of Marienbad, 
contains an extensive library and a Zoological and 
Geological Museum. There are also various other ob- 
jects of interest which are shown to visitors. 

To Fraxzexsbad. 

Franzensbad, which lies west of Carlsbad, is reached 
in about 2\ hours by railway. The best hotels are the 
Adler, Post, Hubner, British Hotel, Midler's Hotel, the 
Erzherzogin Gisela, and the Kaiser von Oesterreich. 
Restaurants at the Cursaal, Railway Station, Weilburg, 
Brandenburg Thor, Prince of "Wales, the latter with 
gardens. 

The springs of Franzensbad, which are situated on 
a level plain 1570 feet above the sea, are principally 
frequented by ladies, the iron spring and peat baths 
being highly recommended for female complaints. The 
annual number of visitors is about 1 0,000, only a small 



I 5 8 LONOEK EXCURSIONS BY RAIL. 

proportion of whom belong to the male sex. The 
climate is bracing, but the changes in temperature are 
often very sudden and somewhat trying. About 200 
houses have been erected at this spa, almost all of 
which are devoted to the accommodation of visitors. 

The principal building is the Cursaal, a large struc- 
ture containing reading and conversation rooms, restau- 
rant, and a large concert salon 150 feet long and 52 
feet wide. For shelter in unfavourable weather there 
are two colonnades, one of wood lined with shops, which 
extends from the Franzensquelle to the Cursaal, and 
another of brick, 220 yards in length, has been erected 
at the Salzquelle. 

In fine weather the visitors promenade in a large and 
beautifully laid out park, which extends from the city 
to the railway station. In the park there is a bronze 
statue of Francis I., the founder of the baths. There 
are several large bathing establishments at the spa, 
about one-half of the baths being mineral, and the 
remainder peat baths, which are greatly used. The 
Franzensbad peat, like that of Marienbad, is ex- 
tremely rich in sulphate of iron. The springs, which 
are cold (50 Fahr.), are ferruginous and are highly 
tonic, the principal ingredients being iron, carbonic 
acid, soda, and Glauber salts. The principal spring is 
the Franzensquelle, where most of the visitors assemble 
from 4.30 to 6.30 p.m. to drink the waters and listen to 
the orchestra. Life at Franzensbad, however, is dull 
at its best, as the majority of the patients are feeble 



LONGER EXCURSIONS BY RAIL. I 59 

and suffering, and the absence of the male sex gives a 
somewhat one-sided character to the conversation and 
amusements. 

To Teplitz. 

Teplitz, next to Carlsbad the most celebrated and 
the most frequented of the Austrian watering-places, 
lies west from Carlsbad about three hours' distance by 
rail. The hotels are the Stadt London, Post, Altes- 
Rathhaus, Konig von Preussen, and Schwartz's Ross ; 
at Schonau, the Neptun. The best and most frequented 
restaurants and cafes are at the Cursaal, in the Stephan's 
Platz, and the Garten Salon, in the Schlossgarten ; at 
both of these table dlwte is served during the season. 
There are also restaurants at the hotels. Excellent 
confectionery at Mtiller s in the Bader Platz and Zimma 
in the Curgarten. English Church service is held 
during the season. Anew Theatre has been erected in 
the Curgarten, at which performances are given daily. 
Concerts are given in the Curgarten daily from 6.30 to 
8 A.M., in the Schlossgarten from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. 
In the evening concerts are given alternately in the 
Cur-garten and the Schlossgarten. Balls are held in 
the Garten salon every Saturday evening from 8 to 
12 P.M. 

Teplitz, which takes its name from a Slavonic 
word signifying " warm bath," lies in the broad and 
fertile valley of the Bela, 725 feet above the sea-level. 
It is an ancient town with i6 ; ooo inhabitants, and is 



l6o LONGER EXCURSIONS BY RAIL. 

one of the oldest watering-places in Europe, the spring 
having been known as early as the eighth century. 
The number of visitors is about 12,000 annually. 

The life at Teplitz is a great contrast to that of most 
of the other watering-places in the north of Austria, 
as it is a quiet and comparatively cheap place ; but, 
nevertheless, it is by no means dull, while, with its 
splendid gardens and beautiful environs, it even out- 
rivals its gayer sisters of Carlsbad and Marienbad. The 
season lasts from May till September, but the baths are 
open the whole year. 

The springs, which are saline-alkaline, have a tem- 
perature of 86° to 1 1 8° Fahr., and are used both for 
drinking and bathing. They have a stimulating and 
exciting effect, and are considered exceedingly beneficial 
in cases of rheumatism, gout, paralysis, and nervous 
disorders. 

As in Carlsbad, the visitors at Teplitz assemble to take 
the waters and promenade at the Trinkhalle in the Cur- 
garten between 6 and 8 a.m. Another favourite pro- 
menade is the grounds of the Chdteau of Prince Clary, 
where the visitors assemble from 1 1 a.m. to 1 p.m. to 
listen to the concerts which are given between these 
hours. In the grounds, which are beautifully laid out, 
are a cafe restaurant and a dairy. On the south-east 
side of the Curgarten, in the Stephan s Platz, are 
the Cursalon, with reading and conversation rooms, 
restaurant, and cafe, and the Kaiserbad, a magnificent 
structure, fitted up with bath-rooms and elegantly 



I 



LONGER EXCURSIONS BY RAIL. I 6 I 

furnished apartments. On the opposite side of the 
Garten is the new Theatre, a handsome building of 
Renaissance architecture. 

The favourite walks are to the Konigshohe (820 ft.), 
an eminence lying immediately to the south of the 
town, on which is the SihlacJcenberg, a curious roccoco 
erection of sandstone and glazed bricks. In the 
building is a restaurant, and from the tower (camera 
obscura 1 5 kr.) there is a fine panoramic view of the 
town and the Bela valley. Charming views can also be 
obtained from the Belvidere restaurant and from the 
cafe Villa Bellavista. 

A short distance from the Curgarten, on the road to 
the Schlackenberg, is a monument erected in honour of 
Frederick William III. of Prussia in 1 841, by " Grateful 
Teplitz," to commemorate the visits of the emperor to 
the baths. 

To the east side of the town lies the suburb of 
Schonau, which was formerly a separate village, but is 
now united to Teplitz by terraces of new houses. At 
Schonau there are also extensive bath-houses and ample 
accommodation for visitors. 

Between Teplitz and Schonau is a small hill, the 
Mont de Ligne, on the summit of which is a restaurant 
and a belvidere, the latter commanding a fine panoramic 
view of the town and its environs. 

East of Schonau is the Schlossberg (1280 feet), which 
can be ascended in about half an hour. On the summit 
are the ruins of an ancient castle destroyed by the Im- 

L 



l62 



LONGER EXCURSIONS BY RAIL. 



perialist troops in A.D 1655 during the Thirty Years' 
War. 

A pleasant excursion from Teplitz can be made to the 
baths of Eichwald, 1378 feet above the level of the sea, 
which is delightfully situated amid beautiful wooded 
scenery, three miles to the north-west. An omnibus 
runs between Teplitz and Eichwald several times daily. 

Another favourite excursion can be made to the 
Mileschauer or Donnersberg, a hill 2740 feet in height, 
lying about ten miles to the south-east. The summit, 
on which there is an inn, commands one of the most 
extensive and picturesque views in Bohemia. Visitors 
take the stage or a carriage (two hours) from Teplitz to 
Pilkau, from which it is about an hours walk to the 
summit. 



( i6 3 ) 



XIII. 

SHOOTING AND FISHING. 

r^^ERY fair shooting and fishing can be enjoyed 
^r by visitors in the neighbourhood of Carls- 
bad. For shooting, a licence (" waffenpass "), 
price I fL, must be obtained from the Burgomaster, 
and leave must also be obtained from the shooting 
society. Shooting begins on the 1st August, and 
ends on the 3 I st January ; the best time for winged 
game being August and the beginning of September, 
and for ground game and deer the late autumn and 
winter months. Cartridges to fit English guns can 
be obtained from Rosenfeldt's Wisen Lowen, Markt 
Platz, and A. Epstein, Goldener Lowen, opposite the 
Curhaus. The game in the neighbourhood of Carlsbad 
consists of partridge (rebhahn), blackcock (birkhahn), 
hares (hasen), and deer (reh), also a very few wild boar. 
The fish in the streams near Carlsbad are trout 
(forellen), best season May and June, which run from 
4 to 6 to the pound, with an occasional half-pounder 
or even larger, pike, barm, rothauge — very game fish 



164 SHOOTIXG AND FISHING. 

with red eyes, which run from 3 to 6 pounds — and 
weissfisch (white fish), which average from I to 3 
pounds. 

Visitors are permitted to fish in the Eger provided 
they are accompanied by one of the fishermen of the 
Fischerei-Verein, who expects a small honorarium. 
All fish caught must be given up to the society or 
paid for at the market price. For fishing in the 
Eger tickets are issued by the Fischerei-Verein, price 
3 florins per month. Fish caught can be kept by 
the angler. 

For trout the best baits are artificial flies, worms, 
and grasshoppers. The small boys about Carlsbad will 
gladly collect a packet of either of the latter for visitors. 
Flies can be obtained at Eosenfeldt's and Epstein's. 
Barm and rothauge are taken in the same way as 
trout. For weissfisch, which in the summer months 
are very plentiful and take freely, the best bait is 
whole cherries, either black or red. These fish lie in 
the necks of the pools, which should be baited the 
previous day by throwing in quantities of cherries. 
They take most freely in the mornings and evenings. 

The best rivers are the Tepel, the Petschau, the 
Eger (no trout), the Neudeck, and the Weissbach. 
In the district round Carlsbad there are a number of 
deep ditches which contain large carp. They give, 
however, very little sport. 



( i65 ) 



XIV. 

THE EXPORTATION AND PRODUCTS OF THE 
CARLSBAD SPRINGS. 

ftJjjSjSpjHE exportation of the Carlsbad water is com- 
S^ljlS paratively a new industry, the first water 
j&JZ&x f or eX p 0r t having been bottled in 1842. 
For a long time it was supposed that the waters lost 
their efficacy after they became cold. This prejudice 
was removed by Dr. Hlawacek, who proved incontest- 
ably that after being heated again to their normal 
temperature they still retained most of their medicinal 
properties. It is impossible, however, to contend 
that the exported waters are of equal efficacy to 
those drunk at the springs, not only from the possible 
escape of their most volatile constituents, but from the 
absence of the salutary effect of the change of air and 
regular mode of life, which are in themselves most 
valuable aids to recovery. Besides this, their beneficial 
influence is often greatly increased by bathing in the 
same water, which of course is only possible at Carlsbad 
itself. 



I 66 EXPORTATION AND PRODUCTS OF THE SPRINGS. 

Nevertheless the exported waters are often of value 
in cases of sudden emergency, or when the patient 
finds it impossible to visit the springs ; they are also 
of great use in completing the cure after the visit is 
ended. The waters best suited for exportation are 
those of the cooler springs, as they contain the greatest 
amount of carbonic acid gas, those most used for the 
purpose, therefore, being the Marktbrunn, Schloss- 
brunn, and Miihlbrunn. 

The bottles are packed in cases and sold in Carlsbad 
at the following prices, cases included : — 

fl. 
Case of 5 o bottles . . . 1 3 

» 30 „ . . .9 

„ 12 „ . . .12 

Sprudel Salt was first prepared by Dr. Berger in 
1708, though his experiments were only tentative. 
In 1732 Dr. Borrias discovered a method of obtaining 
the salt in sufficient quantities for export by evapo- 
rating the water and crystallising the depopit. This 
process he made over to Dr. Bichter, who obtained 
from the Emperor Charles VI. the right to manufac- 
ture the salt. At first the townspeople objected 
strongly to the preparation and sale of the salt, fear- 
ing that it would do away with the necessity of 
visitors coming to Carlsbad. This absurd prejudice 
at last became so strong that the manufacture of 
the salt was stopped for several years, and it was 



EXPORTATION AND PRODUCTS OF THE SPRINGS. I 6 J 

only allowed to be given to patients actually resident 
at Carlsbad. 

In 1764 Dr. David Becker discovered a new pro- 
cess of preparing the salt by using the natural heat of 
the Sprudel itself as the means of evaporation. 

By this method a much larger quantity of the salts 
was able to be produced, and its price was greatly 
reduced. Shortly after this a Government act was 
passed permitting the exportation of the salt, and the 
townspeople, finding that this had rather the effect of 
attracting the attention of the public to the springs 
than of keeping visitors away, soon got rid of their 
prejudices. 

The demand for the salt rapidly increased, until in 
1 8 I 3 it was found necessary to erect a building for 
its manufacture, connected by pipes with the Sprudel. 
In 1863 the Government leased the manufacture of 
the salt to Herr Mattoni, who built a stone factory 
near the Ferdinand's Briicke. In 1877 Herr Mattoni's 
contract expired, and the factory was let to Herr L. 
Schottloender for ten years, at an annual rent of 70,000 
florins. The constantly increasing demand for the salt 
has necessitated the extension of the factory, till it is 
now one of the largest and most completely appointed 
in Europe. 

In 1880 the Carlsbad Town Council commissioned 
the celebrated analyist, Dr. Ernest Ludwig of Vienna, 
to undertake experiments with the view of obtaining 



I 68 EXPORTATION AND PRODUCTS OF THE SPRINGS. 

a salt from the springs which, when dissolved, should 
more nearly resemble the natural mineral water than 
the Sprudel Salt. He succeeded in obtaining a pre- 
paration which he named Natural Carlsbad Salt, and 
which contains all the properties of the springs them- 
selves. It has also the advantage of being less liable 
to evaporation when exported. The Natural Salts, 
which are packed in bottles of 100 and 200 grammes 
(-I arid -|- lb.) with green labels, have now almost 
superseded the Sprudel Salt. 

The salt is used either dissolved in the mineral 
water to increase its cathartic action, the dose being 
one to two drachms to a tumbler of the water, or by 
dissolving a small teaspoonful in half a tumbler of hot 
water, or better still, of Giesshiibl, Krondorf, or soda 
water. 

The Natural Carlsbad Salt is a most valuable mild 
cathartic, as it operates quickly and without pain. 
It has also the advantage that the dose does not require 
to be increased after a time as with most other cathar- 
tics, nor does constipation follow after its use is dis- 
continued. The salt should be taken in the morning 
before breakfast. 

The Natural Carlsbad Salts are also made into pas- 
tilles, which are taken for acidity, heartburn, and 
flatulency. Two to four pastilles should be taken two 
to three times daily, preferably about half an hour 
after meals. 



EXPORTATION AND PRODUCTS OF THE SPRINGS. 



169 



The salt contains in I OO parts- 





Per cent. 


Carbonate of lithium 


0.39 


Bicarbonate of soda . 


• 35-95 


Sulphate of potash . 


3-25 


Sulphate of soda 


• 42.03 


Chloride of soda 


. 18.16 


Fluoride of soda 


.09 



99.87 

The Sprndel Soap is prepared from the lye, or first 
deposit of the Sprudel water, after the crystallised salts 
have been extracted. This lye contains about fourteen 
cent, of mineral constituents. 

This chemical compound is purified from all traces of 
Glaubers' salt, and by the addition of lime is turned 
into caustic lye, from which the soap is manufactured 
by the ordinary process. The soap, which possesses 
considerable healing power, is beneficial in cases of 
chronic diseases of the skin, and is used in both plain 
and mineral water baths. It is also used for poulticing 
cold abscesses and boils, and for making a soap 
embrocation. 



part H. 



MEDICAL TREATISE. 






/ J 



ACTION OF THE WATERS, 



-^NiESIDES the stimulating properties common 
to most mineral waters, those of Carlsbad 
possess three special properties of their own. 

( I .) By their high temperature they accelerate the 
absorption, stimulate the circulation of the blood, pro- 
duce perspiration, and act as a sedative upon the 
nervous system. 

(2.) The carbonic acid gas which they contain 
augments the secretion of gastric juice, stimulates the 
appetite and the digestion, calms the gastric nerves, 
and strengthens the peristaltic movements of the 
stomach and intestinal tract. 

(3.) Their use results in a specific action, viz., a 
chemical modification in the system by the introduc- 
tion of the alkaline salts, the sulphates and carbonates 
of soda, and the chloride of sodium. They are anti- 
acid par excellence, and the sulphate of soda is a mild 
laxative. Alkalies among other things have been 
proved to be indispensable to the phenomena of 
endosmosis, combustion, digestion, and secretion ; 



174 ACTION OF THE WATERS. 

they contribute to maintain the blood in the degree 
of viscosity necessary to keep it fitted for endos- 
mosis, exosmosis, the different compositions and 
decompositions which constitute existence. They 
render the saccharine and amylaceous matters, intro- 
duced by alimentation, capable of combining with the 
oxygen and assisting in the functions of respiration 
and calorification. They cause the elements of the 
bile to become fluid, prevent them from thickening 
or forming calculi, maintain the intestinal diges- 
tion, facilitate the secretions, and thus influence all 
the acts of nutrition and assimilation. The Carlsbad 
waters, in rendering the blood more alkaline, cause it 
to lose a part of its coagulatory properties ; they attack 
the albumen and the fibrine, and bring about promptly 
the dissolution of these substances. If the blood, 
having become more fluid, moves with more liberty in 
its channels, and if, besides, it possesses the property 
of dissolving the two principal elements which form the 
basis of most chronic congestions, a near approach has 
been attained to a knowledge of the mechanism by 
which the Carlsbad waters are dissolvent, resolutive, 
antiplastic, and deobstruent. It is, therefore, of ex- 
treme importance to pay particular attention to the 
double action, tonic and chemical, of those waters 
when using them for the treatment of different 
diseases. 

From their exciting and tonic properties their use is 
not advisable in acute inflammatory disorders, in cases 



ACTION OF THE WATERS. I ?' $ 

in which chronic inflammations have a tendency to 
assume an acute form, and in those in which the 
viscera are subject to serious disorganisation, the pro- 
gress of which is generally aggravated by anything 
that accelerates the circulation. On the other hand, 
they are beneficial in chronic affections, if it is required 
to give a particular stimulus to the organs, to promote 
the circulation, excite the secretions, or regulate nutri- 
tion and assimilation. 

By their chemical properties they are suitable in 
all cases of congestion, obstruction of the viscera, as 
catarrh of the stomach, catarrh of the bowels, biliary and 
urinary calculi, disorders of the liver, gravel, catarrh of 
the bladder, gout, rheumatism, and diabetes. Practical 
observation shows that they produce beneficial modifica- 
tions in lymphatic or scrofulous constitutions, as well as 
in albuminuria. But they should be employed with 
great caution and prudence by cachectic, consumptive, 
or emaciated patients, who, though they sometimes 
derive advantage from their stimulating virtues, have 
to fear, on the other hand, an aggravation of their 
condition. 

The Carlsbad springs present, in their medical 
aspect, differences much more important than might 
be supposed from their chemical analysis. By their 
stimulating and at the same time alterative properties 
the same springs often present the greatest contrasts. 
According to the constitution of the persons and the 
nature of the disease they produce calm or excite- 



1/6 ACTION OF THE WATERS. 

ment, sleep or wakefulness, diarrhoea or constipation ; 
they soothe or increase certain pains, strengthen or 
weaken, fatten or reduce. 

The first sensation on taking the waters is decidedly 
pleasant. After a short use of them a genial warmth 
spreads itself over the body, and a feeling of comfort 
and lightness is experienced. In some cases, after the 
first week, the pains or symptoms from which the 
patient is suffering are greatly increased (called the 
crisis), but this need not in the least degree excite 
fear or apprehension. In a few days the unpleasant- 
ness passes away, and then rapid improvement takes 
place. The complexion gradually clears day by day, 
and by the end of the course it assumes a natural and 
healthy tinge. 



( i/7 ) 



II. 
USE OF THE MINERAL WATERS AT CARLSBAD. 



"v^jOR the right use of the waters it is very 
<5Rlf^ necessary that a correct diagnosis of each 



^v? 



J ^*^^ case should be formed. For this reason 
the invalid should always seek the advice of a physi- 
cian who has made a special study of the diseases 
upon which the Carlsbad waters are supposed to 
exercise a salutary influence. The following explana- 
nation, therefore, of the treatment is only intended to 
induce the patient to follow the directions of the phy- 
sician more intelligently. 

The usual regime is, to commence with, from three 
half to three whole tumblers of the special spring pre- 
scribed by the medical attendant, taken at intervals of 
a quarter of an hour, and increasing gradually to three, 
four, five, and six tumblers. 

The waters are taken in the morning as a rule, the 
usual hours being from 6 to 8 a.m., except in the case 
of delicate invalids, who may be permitted to breakfast 
lightly beforehand if necessary, and even to use the 
waters at home. 

M 



173 USE OF THE MINERAL WATERS AT CARLSBAD. 

The patient should rise about 6 a.m., so as to reach 
the spring about 6.30 A.M. To go early to the spring 
has many advantages, as it not only avoids loss of 
time, and consequent hurry, a serious consideration 
for patients subject to congestion in the head and 
perspiration ; but at that time, the stomach being 
empty, the water will be more easily absorbed. Here 
at the different springs are to be met people of 
all classes and from every country — crowned heads 
and princes of royal blood, members of the English 
aristocracy, Americans, French, Germans, Russians, 
Swedes, Turks, &c. Ailments of almost every form 
are likewise represented, and it is a most interesting 
sight to watch the daily improvement in health and 
spirits of many who had probably considered their 
cases hopeless. There is a covered colonnade at each 
of the principal springs, which can be used in wet 
weather, and an excellent band plays every morning 
from 6 to 8, thereby assisting the cure, by diverting 
the mind and enlivening the spirits. Between the 
times of drinking the waters the patient should pro- 
menade, as far as his strength or the complaint from 
which he suffers will allow, and after the last draught 
should, if possible, take a walk of an hour's duration. 

Exercise facilitates the absorption of the waters, 
and is also necessary to the re-establishment of health. 
After the walk breakfast should be taken. 



( *79 ) 



III. 

EXTERNAL USE OF THE MINERAL WATER. 

J&^LTHOUGH drinking the waters at Carlsbad 
fe^p^» constitutes the principal means of cure, 
^^^ experience and observation teach us that 
by bathing their effects are considerably increased. 
To assist the operation of the waters, mineral, mud, 
iron, vapour, or douche baths are prescribed, and for 
this purpose there are several bathing establishments 
fitted up with every requisite. The special form of 
baths, their temperature, the frequency with which 
they should be taken, and the time which the patient 
should remain in them, must depend upon their 
special case and on the advice of their medical at- 
tendant. 

The Sprudel Water is conducted in long iron pipes 
to the Curhaus, to the Stadthaus, and to the Neiibad, 
where it is cooled to the requisite degree. 

The peat lath consists of Hack peat. This peat is 
rich in mineral constituents. It is first pulverised, 
then screened and freed from accidental impurities, 
mixed with the hot Sprudel Water, or, as in the Neu- 



l80 EXTERNAL USE OF THE MINERAL WATER. 

bad, heated by steam when the bath is ordered. The 
usual temperature of the Sprudel bath ranges from 
8o° Fahr. to 96° Fahr. ; of the peat bath, from 96° 
Fahr. to lOO° Fahr.; of the vapour bath, from 100° 
Fahr. to 130° Fahr. The baths are taken either in 
the morning when fasting, after drinking the mineral 
water, or about two hours after breakfast, generally 
between 1 1 and 1 o'clock in the forenoon. During 
the bath any affected parts, such as the region of the 
spleen and liver or inflamed or stiffened joints, should 
be subjected to gentle friction. 

Before taking the bath all excitement or fatigue, or 
anything that is liable to accelerate the circulation of 
the blood, or produce palpitation of the heart or con- 
gestion of the brain, must be carefully avoided. A 
bath must never be taken on a full stomach, and three 
hours at least should be allowed to elapse after a meal. 
Strong persons may take their bath in the morning 
after drinking the waters and before breakfast, but 
weak patients should not bathe till after having had a 
meal. 

The nature of the bath, the number necessary to be 
taken, and the duration of the bath must always be 
determined by the physician, as he has in prescribing 
to take into consideration the nature of the disease, 
the age and constitution of the patient, and the chemi- 
cal composition of the water or peat. 

It very often occurs at Carlsbad that patients after 
having taken a number of mineral or peat baths get 



EXTERNAL USE OF THE MINERAL WATER. I 8 I 

an eruption on the skin, sometimes itching, called the 
" badfriesel " or " bath-rfrsh." This eruption, however, 
need occasion no alarm, as it is only due to the action 
on the skin of the salt in the water or peats. The 
eruption entirely disappears when the baths are stopped 
for two or three days. 

As the greater number of patients suffering from 
chronic rheumatism, gout, or skin eruptions are liable 
to a profuse perspiration after taking the baths, they 
should always be provided with warm clothing. In 
warm weather they may take a short walk after the 
bath, but in damp or cold weather they should imme- 
diately return home and rest for a short time. 

Patients who are in the slightest degree subject to 
congestion of the brain should, especially if they take 
peat baths, keep a cold wet towel on their heads as 
long as they remain in the bath, and they should also 
be careful to have an attendant at hand to change the 
towels as they become warm. 



( 182 ) 



IV. 

DIETETICS DUEING THE USE OF THE WATEES. 

SS^pOT less important than drinking the waters 
f^lffi^ an d taking the baths is the proper man- 
%^.HL^j^ agement of the patient's regimen. It is of 
the most vital importance that the patient at Carls- 
bad should lead a regular life ; retire early, rise early, 
eat and drink moderately, and always at the same 
hour of the day. He should be the whole day, if 
possible, in the open air, and should take constant 
but moderate exercise, but he most careful to avoid 
all fatigue or exhaustion. Above all, he should keep 
his mind free from worry about business afiairs, or 
any other matters requiring anxious thought, as the 
mind requires rest as well as the body. 

Bathing and drinking the waters cannot effect a 
cure if the diet and method of life, and even the 
amusements, are not regulated by the rules of the 
special case. Especially the diet and the amount of 
exercise has to be prescribed by the medical attendant. 



DIETETICS DURING THE USE OF THE WATERS. I 8 3 

The diet should be always nourishing but simple. 
The desire for food is generally increased ; but as the 
main object of the use of the waters is restoration to 
health, reason must regulate the diet. It is very im- 
portant that there should be a considerable interval 
between each meal. Experience proves that the 
stomach requires from four to five hours to digest 
the quantity of food eaten at a moderate meal, and after 
this process the stomach remains for almost an hour 
in an abnormal condition, which may be compared to a 
slight catarrh. It is only after the lapse of five to six 
hours that the stomach resumes its ordinary healthy 
condition. Three meals during the day are generally 
sufficient. 

The common custom in Carlsbad is as follows : — 
After having drunk the requisite number of cups of 
mineral water early in the morning, a good hour's 
walk is prescribed before taking breakfast, between 8 
and 9 o'clock. This meal consists of coffee or tea 
with milk, a moderate quantity of toast or roll (with- 
out butter), and a couple of eggs or a small quantity 
of cold meat. Butter, fat, or grease of any kind is 
expressly forbidden. 

The greater number of visitors to Carlsbad take 
their breakfast in the open air. In the gardens and 
at the restaurants the most delicious coffee and tea 
and excellent Vienna rolls (Semmel & Kipfel) are 
served at little tables under verandahs and beneath 
the shade of the trees. Having rested a while after 



I 84 DIETETICS DURING THE USE OF THE WATERS. 

breakfast, another short walk should be taken before 
bathing-time, which is generally between I o and 1 1 
a.m. After the bath a rest should be, taken before 
dinner. 

At Carlsbad table d'hote dinners are not cus- 
tomary, as nearly all of the patients have to follow a 
certain regimen prescribed by their physician. Besides 
this, no dishes at the hotels or restaurants which are 
unsuitable for patients taking the mineral waters (so- 
called " curgemass " or " against the cure rules ") are 
allowed to be put on the bills of fare. 

Dinner is usually taken between the hours of one 
and two. It consists of three to four dishes, as soup 
(not always), fish, roast beef, roast veal, or roast 
chicken ; and green vegetables, such as spinach, cauli- 
flower, asparagus, French beans, or green peas, &c, 
and stewed fruits {compote). The patients should be 
careful not to overload the stomach ; any objectionable 
or injurious food, such as raw fruits, ices, sour or too 
sweet dishes, are to be avoided. Stimulants of good 
quality, such as claret, hock, pilsener beer, when 
taken in moderation, in no way diminish the effects of 
the mineral waters ; they often, indeed, serve as a 
stimulant to the system. But, at the same time, 
spirits, such as brandy and whisky, must be strictly 
avoided, as they may lead to the most serious conse- 
quences. A short rest after dinner (but no sleep), and 
then a stroll through the woods or a walk to some of 
the pleasure-gardens outside the town, where there is 



DIETETICS DURING THE USE OF THE WATERS. I 8 5 

music, brings the time up to 6 p.m., at which hour tea 
with milk and eggs, or a chop, or cold meat, is usually 
taken, and by 9 or 10 o'clock most people retire to 
bed, rising up refreshed the next morning to go through 
precisely the same course as on the preceding day. 

Over-fatigue or unnecessary exertion is to be par- 
ticularly avoided ; but, at the same time, as fresh air 
greatly assists the cure, patients are advised to be out 
as much as possible so long as the weather admits of 
it, taking especial care, however, not to get chilled. 

The climate of Carlsbad, like that of most moun- 
tainous districts, is liable to sudden changes, especially 
during the morning and evenings ; and as patients 
have to be the greater part of the day out of doors 
taking exercise, and so liable to perspire freely, they 
should always wear flannel undershirts and be provided 
with a shawl or an overcoat. 

Smoking is to be restricted within the narrowest 
limits. 

Sleeping during the day is generally unadvisable. 
Weak persons, however, who sleep badly during the 
night may sleep for about half an hour before dinner. 

Occupation. — During the use of the waters the 
patient ought to avoid all kinds of business. The 
beneficial effect of the waters will be much assisted if 
the patient's mind be at rest during his stay at our 
watering-place, where he will find the most beautiful 
walks and drives among the charming and picturesque 
woods and mountains. Other patients need and find 



I 8.6 DIETETICS DURING THE USE OF THE WATERS. 

pleasant society and cheerful company at Carlsbad. 
The excellent bands of music and the famous classical 
concerts also contribute much to the general enjoy- 
ment. To the artist and lover of scenery Carlsbad 
presents numberless charms ; and the views to be seen 
from the Aberg, the Hirschensprung, the Panorama, 
and the Dreikreuzberg are magnificent, and should on 
no account remain unvisited. A few miles distant 
are Hammer, Hansheiling and GiesshubL Hans- 
heiling is a lovely spot in the valley of the Eger, and 
at Giesshiibl there is a natural spring from which the 
water issues forth as cold as ice and effervescing like 
soda water. 



( i»7 ) 



V. 



GENERAL INDICATIONS FOR THE USE OF 
CARLSBAD WATER 

Cases in which the Waters are Decidedly Indi- 
cated, AND THOSE IN WHICH THEY ARE CONTRA- 

Indicated. 

^SSrS^HRONIC conditions of every form of abdominal 
i4jS$^ disease are the most likely to be benefited bv 
*+s«»**L ^e wa ter. They are not in all cases com- 
pletely cured, but it very rarely happens that they are 
not modified in their worst symptoms. Most of our 
patients are affected with Plethora abdominalis, arising 
from too substantial and abundant nourishment, com- 
bined with a sedentary life, where chylification exceeds 
the ordinary want of nature. The blood is therefore 
overloaded with the final results of the digestion, and 
all the secretions are disturbed. The excretory organs 
are found incapable of eliminating the superfluous 
matters, and this being retained, morbid products 
came to be developed. The quantity as well as the 
quality of the blood and of the other fluids being 
thus injuriously altered, many chronic diseases arise, 



I 88 INDICATIONS FOR USE OF CARLSBAD WATER. 

such, as indigestion, constipation, gout, piles, gall- 
stones, renal calculi, gravel, gouty eczema, &c. &c. 
In these complaints the waters are very efficacious on 
account of their action on the bowels, on the urinary 
organs, and on the skin, which tends to diminish the 
amount of the solid constituents of the blood and other- 
wise to restore it to its normal condition. 

Special Indications. 

i . Dyspepsia. At least two-thirds of the patients to 
be met with at Carlsbad go there in order to obtain 
from the waters relief from the varied forms of indiges- 
tion. They frequently complain that they have little 
or no appetite. After eating they feel heaviness and 
pain in the epigastrium, flatulence, acidity, headache, 
weakness, and depression. When the dyspepsia is 
simple and idiopathic it is generally cured in a com- 
plete and easy manner by the use of the Carlsbad 
waters. 

But dyspepsia depends also very frequently on chronic 
or constitutional affections, and manifests itself as a 
secondary symptom of some predominant disease, such 
as chronic catarrh of the stomach, ulcer of the stomach, 
gout, &c. Even in these cases patients have often 
obtained the most favourable results, as the thermal 
treatment has a very beneficial influence on those 
chronic and constitutional maladies. 

It happens very often with a dyspeptic patient, as one 
of the consequences of the slowness of the digestion, 



INDICATIONS FOP, USE OF CARLSBAD WATER. 

that the local nervous system becomes excited to such a 
point as to give rise to neuralgic symptoms. This 
painful neurosis of the stomach, or gastralgia. man:: 
itself under several forms. 

2. The typical form is the attack of gc i or 
cramp in the stomach — . both violent and last- 
ing from half an hour to several hours. It begins with 
headache, pain in the epigastrium and back, accom- 
panied with dyspnoea and vomiting, and finishing ? 
exhaustion. There are a certain number of cases in 
which we find combined both the symptoms of gas- 
tralgia and dyspepsia, nanir'y. 

. according to which of those forms 
predominate. 

Gastralgia and dyspepsia, however distinct they may 
be from each other, may therefore meet on the same 
ground, and thus neee^:~: 3e therapeutic mea- 

sures which apply to both. Carlsbad waters ;;duce 
in both cases the most satisfactory results. Another 
most disagreeable consequence of ic catarrh of 

the s is 

3. TJie dilatation of the stomach. The slightest pres- 
sure en a greatly distended stomach easily produces 

nd gurgling noise, accompanied by 
dyspepsia, gastralgia, flatulency, frequent eructations 
: ur liquid and air. palpitation of the heart, vomit- 
ing, dyspnoea, and general exhaustion. This corti- 
plaintj when far advanced, is seldom completely cured, 
but it can decidedly be very much improved by washing 



190 INDICATIONS FOR USE OF CARLSBAD WATER. 

out the stomach with Carlsbad water, introduced and 
withdrawn through a stomach tube and funnel like a 
siphon. 

Besides this innocent, painless, and most efficacious 
treatment massage and electricity may be applied to the 
dilated stomach. 

4. Chronic catarrh of the bowels, chronic diarrhoea, 
as well as chronic constipation, and their consequences, 
all being different species of the same affection, find 
generally a quick and radical remedy in the Carlsbad 
waters. 

5. Colic, a neuralgia of the intestinal nerves, and 
perhaps also of the ramifications of the mesenteric plexus, 
characterised by constringent, wandering, or fixed pains 
in the umbilical region and the colon, is often cured at 
Carlsbad. Also the Colica satumina (Colic of Devon- 
shire), the so-called lead poisoning, finds a remedy in 
the Carlsbad waters. 

The Carlsbad waters Jiave no anthelmintic or worm- 
destroying action, properly speaking, notwithstanding 
that Ascarides lumbricoides and oxyuris vermicular is, 
and even great lengths of tapeworm are often expelled 
by them ; they, however, have a great influence in de- 
stroying the tendency to the formation of worms. 

6. Diseases of the liver and Hilary ducts are also 
treated with most successful results at the hot alkaline 
springs of Carlsbad, especially enlargements of the liver 
of various kinds, occasioned principally by accumulation 
of fat or by congestion. The waters are, however, of 



INDICATIONS FOR USE OF CARLSBAD WATER. 1 9 1 

little or no use if the enlargement of the liver is caused 
by cancer or by encysted echinococcus. 

Cirrhosis of the liver can only be benefited in its 
earlier stages. In nearly all cases of jaundice where the 
discharge of the bile into the intestine is prevented, 
either by gastric catarrh having extended into the 
duodenum and biliary ducts or by chronic inflammation 
in the liver, or when it is prevented by any other inter- 
ruption of the flow of the bile, such as some strong 
nervous perturbation or gallstones, Carlsbad waters are 
particularly efficacious. 

7. Gallstones and hepatic colics are diseases in which 
the favourable effects of the Carlsbad springs may be 
looked for with the greatest certainty. The fart is, that 
under the influence of the thermal treatment the ex- 
pulsion of gallstones and gravel is often singularly 
facilitated, sometimes without pain, but more frequently 
with the most painful colics, which may occur at 
Carlsbad or immediately after the thermal treatment. 
Such attacks of violent colic occurring either during or 
after the use of the Carlsbad waters indicate invariably 
a considerable amelioration of the disease, if not its 
entire disappearance. 

Our alkaline waters not only facilitate the expulsion 
of smaller concretions through the biliary ducts into the 
duodenum, but also seem to act upon the bile, so as to 
do away either temporarily or altogether with tendency 
to this species of lithiasis or forming of gallstones. 
Carlsbad is a sure remedy also for polycholia^ the ex- 



192 INDICATIONS FOR USE OF CARLSBAD WATER. 

cessive secretion of bile, generally the consequence of an 
hereditary bilious constitution, of a residence in tropical 
climates, of too luxurious and heating food, or of the 
abuse of mercury and the iodides. 

Also the functional derangements of the spleen, 
especially enlargement of that organ as a consequence of 
malaria and intermittent and typhoid fever, are generally 
not only improved but completely cured in Carlsbad. 

8. Our waters are also specially useful in dissolving 
and expelling gravel and small calculi of the kidneys 
and bladder. Patients suffering from gravel or calculi 
soon feel in Carlsbad a great relief from their com- 
plaint. The urine becomes alkaline. Being secreted 
more abundantly and without pain, it dissolves and 
carries off the glairy and purulent matters resulting 
from irritation of the mucous membrane, soon ceases 
to be thick and foetid, and becomes limpid; while at 
the same time hcematuria or blood in the urine, nephri- 
tic or kidney colics, pain in the kidneys and bladder, 
and the disorders caused by the presence of calculi are 
diminished and removed. Sleep, appetite, and strength 
revive, and patients who on arriving could scarcely 
stand are able in a few days to take salutary exercise. 
It has been proved by practical tests that the Carlsbad 
springs, being strongly charged with bicarbonate of 
soda, dissolve and disintegrate the different ingredients 
of the calculi, and assist in their natural expulsion from 
the bladder. The waters dissolve the animal matter, 
and as a consequence separate the saline parts, which, 



INDICATIONS FOR USE OF CARLSBAD WATER. 1 93 

deprived of their cement, are deposited in small scales 
and expelled with the urine. In this manner the waters 
may act on the phosphatic calculi, especially on those of 
ammoniacal-magnesian-phosphate, as well as on the cal- 
culi of uric acid. 

The effect of the waters is indeed not only to neut- 
ralise the uric diathesis, and for the time to prevent it 
from manifesting itself, but also to modify the organic 
causes of its production, by rendering the urine alka- 
line before its arrival in the kidneys and bladder. 
Also the efficacy of our alkaline springs is incontestably 
evident in cases where the urine is neutral or alkaline, 
muddy, foetid, or discoloured, containing phosphatic 
(white) gravel deposits and calculi of phosphate of lime, 
or of ammoniac-magnesia-phosphate, or of a mixture of 
this latter with phosphate of lime, as well as in cases 
of non-ammoniac -phosphatic gravel and calculi. By 
the introduction of a large quantity of bicarbonate of 
soda into the system they modify the pathological state 
of the mucous membrane of the bladder and liquefy the 
thickened mucus. They also act on the composition of 
the blood, by preventing the formation of uric acid or 
neutral phosphates ; thus they change the constitution 
of the urine, so that when secreted in the kidneys and 
passing through the bladder it no longer contains any 
insoluble substances of a nature to form precipitates. 

9. Carlsbad has also acquired a considerable reputa- 
tion for its eminently beneficial influence on gout and 

chronic rheumatism. 

N 



194 INDICATIONS FOR USE OF CARLSBAD WATER. 

Although the treatment cannot ahvays dissolve the 
deposits of uric acid or the calcareous concretions in 
and around the joints, still they diminish the frequency, 
the duration, and the intensity of the attacks ; they 
also alleviate, or often in whole or in part put an end to, 
the local lesions, to the congestions, the stiffness of the 
ligaments, and the contractions of the muscles which 
are the effects of the paroxysms. 

It is important for gouty people, after leaving 
Carlsbad, to continue the use of alkaline waters if 
they would not rapidly lose the benefits of the thermal 
treatment, which, in order to insure success, should, 
if required, be repeated for at least three consecutive 
years. 

10. Clinical experience has proved that the stimu- 
lating effect of the hot alkaline springs on the skin 
and gastro-intestinal membrane, the activity given to 
the functions of assimilation, enervation, and secretion, 
have very often removed the beginning of BrigMs 
disease, as well as congestion of the kidneys generally. 
Albuminuria at a certain point (when not complicated 
by any serious organic disorder) has very often been 
not only relieved, but when the use of the waters is, 
combined with a tonic and strengthening regimen 
there is good reason to expect even a complete recovery. 

1 1 . There is another disease, the result of a general 
neurosis, affecting all the nerves which govern the 
secretions — a neurosis resulting in an increased pro- 
duction of sugar in the system, and modifying the 



INDICATIONS FOK USE OF CARLSBAD WATER. I95 

chemical composition of the fluids in the animal 
economy, not less important by its gravity than by its 
increasing frequency, which requires as a remedy a 
sufficient quantity of alkali — that is, Diabetes. Scrupu- 
lous observation, as well as experience in numerous 
cases, has shown that these waters are particularly 
efficacious in diabetes and its consequences. 

The excessive secretion from the kidneys charged with 
sugar, excessive appetite and thirst, dryness of the skin, 
emaciation, loss of the hair and teeth, eczema, boils and 
carbuncles, great mental depression — all of these com- 
plaints become less distressing during the residence at 
Carlsbad, provided the waters are taken in time and the 
prescribed antidiabetic regimen strictly adhered to. 

All, in fact, obtain here in a short time very great 
relief, and many of the above-mentioned symptoms 
disappear entirely. 

The sugar in the urine disappears gradually and in 
time completely. The thirst is assuaged, the general 
strength is restored, calm succeeds to uneasiness, and 
sleep to wakefulness. The relief obtained may be a re- 
sult of the tonic action and of the stimulating proper- 
ties which almost all mineral waters exercise on the skin, 
on the secretions, and on the functions in general. Or, 
again, the real cause of the benefit derived by diabetic 
patients may be in consequence of the chemical com- 
position and alkaline properties of the water, which acts 
as a very useful adjuvant, or specific and sovereign 
remedy in cases of diabetes. 



196 INDICATIONS FOR USE OF CARLSBAD WATER. 

12. The Carlsbad waters are of the greatest use in 
the treatment of Hcemorrhoids (piles), a very distress- 
ing condition, which arise from abdominal disorders. 
Patients with the most alarming symptons, such as gid- 
diness, congestions, haemorrhage, asthma, itching and 
burning of the skin, are very often freed from the com- 
plaint, as the blind piles burst and a haemorrhoidal flux 
results from the use of the waters. 

13. Also general obesity as well as local deposition of 
fat in the intestinal organs of the chest and abdomen 
and their consecutive symptoms, as asthma, congestion, 
different disorders of the digestion, weakness, &c, 
undergo a remarkable improvement by a prolonged 
residence at Carlsbad. 

14. Also Prosopalgia (FothergilFs pain, Tic-doulou- 
reux) as well as Migraine, which are not infrequently 
a consequence of plethora abdominalis, are very often 
greatly benefited here. 

15. Diseases of the sexual system, such as Metritis 
chronica, swelling of the ostium uterinale, menstrual 
derangements, swelling of the ovaries, sterility — all 
these female complaints (especially if they arise in con- 
sequence of plethora abdominalis, even if the state is 
chronic and the character is atonic), derive much ad- 
vantage and improvement from a course of these waters. 
The efficacy of the Carlsbad water in the treatment of 
these diseases is often greatly assisted at the same time 
by the use of the peat baths and the local application 
of peat poultices. 



INDICATIONS FOR USE OF CARLSBAD WATER. 1 97 

Hypochondriasis, Hysteria, and Melancholia, which 
have their origin in disorders of the abdominal organs ; 
symptoms of stagnation of blood in the liver, in the 
spleen, in the pancreas, and in the uterus ; symptoms of 
suppressed and irregular catamenia — in all these cases 
the use of Carlsbad water has a powerful effect. 

The change of climate, picturesque scenery, and plea- 
sant companions also largely contribute to the restora- 
tion of the health of invalids. 



T' 



( 198 ) 




VI. 



PERIOD AT WHICH THE EFFECT OF THE 
WATERS MANIFESTS ITSELF. 

^HERE is no fallacy more widely spread and 
none less based on reason and experience 
than the expectation of immediate or even 
rapid results from the treatment by natural mineral 
waters of such diseases as are amenable to this 
efficacious and permanently beneficent therapeutic 
agency when properly applied. Patients are fre- 
quently disappointed and often lose hope if urgent 
symptoms are not quickly relieved or do not yield to 
treatment as they may be expected to do in acute 
disease, in which remedies are usually heroic in their 
application, and when successful more or less quickly 
manifest their effects. 

It must not be forgotten that most, if not all, of 
those affections for which hydrotherapeutics are adapted 
are not only chronic in character, but are also usually 
of long standing. In numberless cases they are due 
to hereditary causes or to the habits of a lifetime, and 




THE EFFECT OF THE WATERS. I 99 

produce results, functional and organic, which it would 
not be safe to attempt to change suddenly, even if it 
were practicable to attain this result. What is slow 
of growth and becomes ingrafted in the constitution 
can only gradually be changed surely and safely. 

u Chi va piano va sano, e chi va sano va lontano," 
says a good Italian proverb. In many cases of some 
affections, such as gout in several of its protean forms, 
scrofulous disease, and not a few acquired affections, 
the immediate result of a course of mineral water 
treatment is not only not manifest at all until some 
time afterwards, but needs renewal for several seasons 
before a permanent cure can be effected. Hence no 
patient should lose heart or abandon hope, even if 
there is no magician's wand in the hands of his physi- 
cian to perform miracles in the relief of his sufferings. 



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